Currently best place to get brake booster assembly? (Europe preferably) (1 Viewer)

[flykas]

Hello,

I am on a budget so trying to find the cheapest option. Could not fin anything better if going with a new part: 47050-60012 Genuine Toyota Brake Booster Assy, W/Master Cylinder - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~brake~booster~assy~w~master~cylinder~47050-60012.html

Also found some ebay sellers selling refurbished units and one used unit, but looks to be in very good condition from UAE, both go for 1000 EU.

Story with the booster:
One year ago I had the "dying seagull" issue, which went away after flushing the system, was good throughout the winter and whole year, but now, one year later, after first below zero temperatures, leak from brake booster assembly appeared and I get the audible brake warning and dash lights that go away after some time. I think I have read most of the threads about this part and in general I see it is advisable to replace the whole unit.

What would be your comments, suggestions?

Thanks

Edit: Also if I am going to ship it from far, I'd like to make sure to not mess anything up. Is the part number 47050-60012 correct for Land Cruiser 100, 2001? And are there big differences between these parts. I see that there is also part number 47050-60010 and also version for vehicles with VSC? Mine does not have VSC.

 

[Rhetoric]

Use partsouq.com

Enter your VIN to verify the exact p/n for your truck.

 

[flykas]

Use partsouq.com

Enter your VIN to verify the exact p/n for your truck.

Ok, so mine is 47050-60022 and I can't find it for sale. Maybe someone knows if its interchangeable with the 47050-60012 part?

 

[riffman12]

not sure about the European model with no VSC. Could you confirm the part number with a local dealership?
another good source of parts is IMPEX JAPAN — online new genuine spare parts shop - https://en.impex-jp.com/

 

[nissanh]

Have you tried to replace the washers with OEM and rebuild the ABS motor. I know there are several sellers in the UK and Europe selling rebuilding kits for the motor (ebay and youube).

 

[flykas]

Have you tried to replace the washers with OEM and rebuild the ABS motor. I know there are several sellers in the UK and Europe selling rebuilding kits for the motor (ebay and youube).

Haven't tried that as I am really a beginner at these things, but maybe I should try to do that

not sure about the European model with no VSC. Could you confirm the part number with a local dealership?
another good source of parts is IMPEX JAPAN — online new genuine spare parts shop - https://en.impex-jp.com/

Haven't contacted them, but their website shows yet another number: 47050-60023

 

[nissanh]

I saw multiple videos on youtube showing the commutator getting fixed on those toyota ABS pumps including the LC.

the best route is to get a brand new pump like did to my 2000. My old did not make any sound but had 235K miles so I replaced it.

 

[flykas]

Soo I replaced whole abs unit and after 300 km I again get the red brake warning light. It comes on after braking few times. Not immediately, but maybe after stopping two or three times at a stoplight and then turns off in about a minute. Sometimes in randomly turns off when I press the brake pedal. Also, I tested the initial pump operation time and seems to be about 14 second, which is supposed to be very good. Any ideas? Could air in the system cause this?

 

[leveeguy]

Soo I replaced whole abs unit and after 300 km I again get the red brake warning light. It comes on after braking few times. Not immediately, but maybe after stopping two or three times at a stoplight and then turns off in about a minute. Sometimes in randomly turns off when I press the brake pedal. Also, I tested the initial pump operation time and seems to be about 14 second, which is supposed to be very good. Any ideas? Could air in the system cause this?

Have you confirmed proper fluid level by checking the fluid level after pumping brake pedal 35-40 times with engine off? Also check to be sure no fluid is leaking from any brake line connections.

Bleed brakes to ensure no air in lines after confirming the above, with techstream if available.

 

[flykas]

Have you confirmed proper fluid level by checking the fluid level after pumping brake pedal 35-40 times with engine off? Also check to be sure no fluid is leaking from any brake line connections.

Bleed brakes to ensure no air in lines after confirming the above, with techstream if available.

Yes I have checked the level and it was straight in the middle between "max" and "low". And when driving normally its a little below the "low" line.

I think I saw a drop of fluid hanging on one of the lines, but not very obvious leak also level did not seem to get obviously lower after 300 km trip, what should I try to do? Tighten the line fixing bolts?

 

[leveeguy]

Yes I have checked the level and it was straight in the middle between "max" and "low". And when driving normally its a little below the "low" line.

I think I saw a drop of fluid hanging on one of the lines, but not very obvious leak also level did not seem to get obviously lower after 300 km trip, what should I try to do? Tighten the line fixing bolts?

Seems your fluid level is low and that should be the reason for the intermittent red brake warning light.

Yea you should try to tighten the brake line so that area stays dry. Try to tighten with 10mm line wrench in 1/8 of full turn increments until no further leaks are observed.

 

[flykas]

Seems your fluid level is low and that should be the reason for the intermittent red brake warning light.

Yea you should try to tighten the brake line so that area stays dry. Try to tighten with 10mm line wrench in 1/8 of full turn increments until no further leaks are observed.

Okay I'll try that. By the way, how does it measure the level inside the brake fuel reservoir? I thought that maybe I should add brake fluid, but I thought that the system probably can't tell unless the reservoir gets empty, does it have some kind of sensor?

 

[leveeguy]

Yes and that sensor activates the red brake warning light when fluid level is too low.

 

[flykas]

Yes and that sensor activates the red brake warning light when fluid level is too low.

Heh, yeah that solved it. Silly mistake. Now to find out where the leak is from. Maybe its where the reservoir connects to the cylinder, the reservoir seemed a bit more loose than the original when the unit arrived, maybe it got damaged during transportation. I suppose its not high pressure area so maybe I should try to push it in or tighten it somehow.

 

[leveeguy]

Heh, yeah that solved it. Silly mistake. Now to find out where the leak is from. Maybe its where the reservoir connects to the cylinder, the reservoir seemed a bit more loose than the original when the unit arrived, maybe it got damaged during transportation. I suppose its not high pressure area so maybe I should try to push it in or tighten it somehow.

If new unit it should be okay as the reservoir is normally loose feeling so should be nothing to be alarmed of unless you specifically see fluid leaking from the lower reservoir area.

Brake line fittings would be the area most likely to have a leak after replacing master cylinder assembly.

 

[flykas]

If new unit it should be okay as the reservoir is normally loose feeling so should be nothing to be alarmed of unless you specifically see fluid leaking from the lower reservoir area.

Brake line fittings would be the area most likely to have a leak after replacing master cylinder assembly.

The unit is not new, but from a low supposedly mileage car. After more inspection I found a drop hanging on one of the brake line fitting places, but also it can come from higher up, one of the rubbers on opening where the reservoir meets the master cylinder is wet and also whole reservoir wiggles arround and I found that when I look at the bolts holding it, they are clearly loose when I move the reservoir, one bolt in the front isn't even touching the plastic, but I can't tighten it anymore, I could place a washer there I guess. The other two bolts in the back are hard to reach, but are also not holding the reservoir down. So maybe after driving few hundred KM the reservoir wiggled loose and started leaking? I wonder is it worth trying to tighten it down with these bolts? I don't think that they would be able to apply any pressure on the reservoir in downward direction, they might just stop it from wiggling.

 

[leveeguy]

I'd prob tighten the brake line in attempt to determine if thats the source of the leak first.

The reservoir is somewhat loose on new units so it being loose on yours is not something to focus on as the definite source of the leak. There should be three gaskets that can be replaced if the leak is coming from that area though.

The screws on the back of reservoir could maybe be accessed by loosening the bolts inside firewall some to allow the MC to slide forward a little, im not sure though. Those screws do hold the reservoir in place, but im not certain that tightening the two upper screws would definitely fix the issue if thats where the leak is coming from, and I doubt tightening the front screw you mention would result in a permanent fix either. And continuing the rock the reservoir unnecessarily should prob be avoided.

Have you contacted seller about this issue? Ask if the gaskets as reservoir connection were replaced. Any warranty provided on the rebuilt unit?

Edit: for the brake fitting it may be good idea to loosen it first remove it and inspect for and remove any metal shavings/debris that could be present, ensure all threads are clean, then put some clean brake fluid on threads prior to re-installing.

 

[flykas]

I'd prob tighten the brake line in attempt to determine if thats the source of the leak first.

The reservoir is somewhat loose on new units so it being loose on yours is not something to focus on as the definite source of the leak. There should be three gaskets that can be replaced if the leak is coming from that area though.

The screws on the back of reservoir could maybe be accessed by loosening the bolts inside firewall some to allow the MC to slide forward a little, im not sure though. Those screws do hold the reservoir in place, but im not certain that tightening the two upper screws would definitely fix the issue if thats where the leak is coming from, and I doubt tightening the front screw you mention would result in a permanent fix either. And continuing the rock the reservoir unnecessarily should prob be avoided.

Have you contacted seller about this issue? Ask if the gaskets as reservoir connection were replaced. Any warranty provided on the rebuilt unit?

Edit: for the brake fitting it may be good idea to loosen it first remove it and inspect for and remove any metal shavings/debris that could be present, ensure all threads are clean, then put some clean brake fluid on threads prior to re-installing.

Update in this: I tightened the reservoir with adding washers to the bolts. Now it stay in place way more firmly and I thought that it fixed the leak, but after a week of staying in the garage I see that it is still there, maybe smaller. Also I am almost sure about the location of the leak. Its where the reservoir connect to the master. Should I maybe remove the reservoir and inspect it and maybe replace it with the reservoir from my old unit?