Cupping Tire help please (1 Viewer)

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OK so I have some cupping on my drivers side front tire. Here is what I have done so far… Checked and adjusted the toe in toe out…checked again no movement. The knuckles have about 2k miles since rebuild actually the axles locker all bearings longfields etc all have 2k miles.
Here is one concern and please tell me if it's a concern or not. The spring hanger is slightly crooked on that side. I had a really great older machinest weld them for me some 3 years ago when we started the project and I don't know if that could be part of my issue.
The suspension is the Man a not free Mojave kit that they no longer sell ( go figure) the caster correction shims make the ubolts tighten in a weird pattern is that normal? Any suggestions are appreciated.
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I would just rotate more often...to start with and I think the issues you mentioned is the cause of the wear.

Also to get more tread wear it looks like that you have black walls on both sides. I bet for about $25 or less you can have that tire flipped and get more wear out of it later down the road.
 
Usually cupped or "scalloped" tires are caused by bad shocks or struts, but it looks like you have new-ish OMEs...

But also, I don't really see the wear you're talking about in the above picture ... Are you talking about the 2nd knob in from the right at about 7 o'clock?
 
When you run your hand up the tire opposing the tread you can feel it. I don't really know how best to photograph it to get the real effect. The entire suspension is about 2k miles old. Do you think that perhaps I screwed up the knuckles somehow? I did everything as FSM but I had some issue with preload using a fish scale and worry that could be the cause.
 
I know on my 4 runner and 62 my nitto scalped on the outter tread blocks in a few k miles due to the siping. i just rotated more often and still go great tread wear.

Those look to be a toyo open country
 
I know on my 4 runner and 62 my nitto scalped on the outter tread blocks in a few k miles due to the siping. i just rotated more often and still go great tread wear.

Those look to be a toyo open country

They are Toyo's and how do I SOLVE the problem? I will definetly rotate them hell I may go do it now! It just bothers me that I can't get it to stop…..
 
I agree with what's already been noted, and that is that true cupping can generally be blamed on crapped out shocks.
The u-bolts look just as I'd expect them to with a shim in place.

The driver's front hanger is surely tweeked, but that small error would be almost eliminated if you followed good procedure when doing the install, as there's a small amount of adjustability there. If you waited to torque down all the fasteners until the truck's weight was on it's tires, then it would have more likely 'self-aligned'. Of course, that's only a likelyhood and not a guarantee, so it wouldn't hurt to loosen everything, knock the front end around a bit and retourque.
It's entirely possible the truck is adjusted fine and it's the tire's problem.
 
I have not seen many that have not some bit of scallaping on the edge. Alot of city driving...low speed turning all add up the speed of these things happening.

I see it alot in the tire biz. That is why alot of AT/MT tires don't have siping on the outter tread blocks.
 
Thanks for all the advise. I'm going to watch and see where we go from here. Hopefully it clears up. Side note is it good protocol to introduce the spare during rotations?
 
tat2matt said:
Thanks for all the advise. I'm going to watch and see where we go from here. Hopefully it clears up. Side note is it good protocol to introduce the spare during rotations?

We usually rotate all 5 tires so that when they all finally wear down, and we want to try a different size or tire, we aren't stuck with a brand new, never driven, slightly sun rotted, BFG on the back.
 
We usually rotate all 5 tires so that when they all finally wear down, and we want to try a different size or tire, we aren't stuck with a brand new, never driven, slightly sun rotted, BFG on the back.

Thank you! That was my intention but it's good to hear I wasn't off my rocker
 
Well I figured it out. I thought that I had a wheel bearing issue but how could that be they are new! The preload was set rite? There was no reason to suspect wheel bearings but I checked anyhow and here is what I found. The Drivers side ,the one I had issue with, was in fact loose. I tore it all down and checked everything and there was no issue so I re packed the bearings put it all back together and had slop from 3-9. OK so I checked the passenger side no issue but pulled the hub apart and checked and whammo! I had used both the thicker Spindle nuts on the passenger side and the lock nuts on the drivers. Leaving the drivers with just a little slop. I didn't even realize they were different till I had it all back together. Now to order new nuts and lock washers and fix it…..
 

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