Cummins 6BT Fuel Pump Removal (Real Time)

[D'Animal]

How the heck does it come off?

This is the big one, not the little two bolt on the side of the block.

I have the injector lines pulled.

I the I have the front gear pulled so it is about to come out of the cover.

I have the 10mm blot and little plate pulled off the side of the pump housing.

If I don't get this pulled and the "O" ring replaced, it will miss SnT.


Any Help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

 

[amaurer]

How the heck does it come off?

This is the big one, not the little two bolt on the side of the block.

I have the injector lines pulled.

I the I have the front gear pulled so it is about to come out of the cover.

I have the 10mm blot and little plate pulled off the side of the pump housing.

If I don't get this pulled and the "O" ring replaced, it will miss SnT.


Any Help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

I wish I could help, but I hope you make it; what do you have with a 6bt in it?! I'll wanna have a look at that.

 

[D'Animal]

My Tow Rig

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/177540-building-tow-rig.html


And if every goes well, I'll be towing my other rig

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-c...-cab-custom-vehicle-build-finally-begins.html

 

[D'Animal]

I quit last night before the pry bar came out. I will try it again this morning.

 

[davegonz]

D'Animal, are you talking about the lift pump or the injection pump (IP)?? The lift pump is easy, but the IP is a bit more involved. Let me know which one you are talking about and I might be able to find a quick how-to. You might want to also send dieselcruiserhead (Andre Shoumatoff) an IM since he might have a better idea.

 

[D'Animal]

It is the injector pump. I started it yesterday morning and diesel fuel was leaking out the rear area of the pump. I called a few diesel shops and they said the "O" ring is bad. I guess it is common when it get cold or has 240k miles on it.

DHondagod said there is a good How To video on You Tube. I havent' found it.

Vince Pardall at Truck Repair in Fort Madison, Iowa said it is a pretty easy job and walked me through everything on the phone. He went to bed since he is 2 hours ahead of me.

Tim from Tim's Repair pretty much echoed what Vince said.

I have done everything but it is still on tight. I don't know if they are tight and you have to kinda pry and wiggle them off or if they should be loose and you just pull them off once all the bolts are out.

I really do not want to break anything.

I'll post some pictures of what I am looking at.

 

[davegonz]

This might help: VE rebuild with pics Look inside - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

 

[D'Animal]

This might help: VE rebuild with pics Look inside - Page 2 - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

That is a great write up.

 

[davegonz]

Just be careful not to f* up the timing. I'm trying to find a link that shows how to lock that in.

 

[davegonz]

PM sent

 

[davegonz]

From what I can remember, you need to lock the IP at TDC via a pin behind the gear cover (manually turn the crank until the pin goes in). You then have to remove the tab on the pump and tighten down the nut (see picture).

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll276/1stGen545/HPIM1805.jpg

Once that is done, you remove the oil filler tube which will give you access to the IP gear. This gear will need to be pulled with a gear puller (I think). Be careful to not let the little key drop down into the gear cover.

 

[davegonz]

Are you running 100% low sulfur diesel? I had some leakage on my 4BT that went away after switching to full biodiesel. You might want to see if that will help swell up the seals enough to keep the leak to a minimum.

 

[D'Animal]

I bumped the engine so the key on the gear is straight up. I made a "T" Bar puller and pulled the gear. The shaft should be a tapered shaft and the gear should "POP" off. I have pulled the gear over 1" and it is still tight on the shaft. The key may be trying to walk out with the gear.

 

[davegonz]

Is the key visible? You might want to stuff a rag under the gear to catch the key if it falls out/down.

 

[D'Animal]

Found the pin and have the TDC lines up.

This pump has a pulley on shaft fitment. It is not the tapered fit like the newer ones.

 

[davegonz]

So you got it out ok?

 

[D'Animal]

Freds40 came down and assisted. We lined everything up and then took the final bolts out. We had to make a wrench to get to the bottom inside bolt. After that the pump came off. The gear and shaft was tapered after all. It was jsut a really long taper. The gear does hit the front cover and actually was trying to push the pump off the back of the housing. I'm glad I quit when I did last night.



I took it to the pump shop and it needs a little more than the "O" ring kit.

Estimate was $500 to $700.


DaveGonz, Thanks for all you help, PM's and links.

 

[D'Animal]

If you have a cummins and you wrench on it yourself and you do not have one of these 12pt wrenches in 13mm.


You might want to get one.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Freds40 came down and assisted. We lined everything up and then took the final bolts out. We had to make a wrench to get to the bottom inside bolt. After that the pump came off. The gear and shaft was tapered after all. It was jsut a really long taper. The gear does hit the front cover and actually was trying to push the pump off the back of the housing. I'm glad I quit when I did last night.



I took it to the pump shop and it needs a little more than the "O" ring kit.

Estimate was $500 to $700.


DaveGonz, Thanks for all you help, PM's and links.

I spent a couple of days getting a tight 1HZ pump off

Are they putting a complete gasket/seal kit in? At least itsgood for a while now

 

[D'Animal]

I had a throttle shaft bushing that was a little loose. It will need new bushings.

With 240K miles on it he recomended that I do the full rebuild that will last another 250k miles.


He knows injector pumps so I'm taking his recomendation.