Cruiser's dead

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Jul 26, 2004
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Got-R-Did
I left my lights on the other night and caught it but not before it killed my battery. I jumped it and it started up,and drove a few miles, but after I shut it off and tried to start it again, it was dead. There is power until the key is in the "on" position (the radio and clock work) but when I try to start it it just loses all power. Is this the alternator gone bad? I recently had the ignition switch and EFI Relay replaced. Or is the battery toast (it is only about 10 months old). Thought I would check here before taking it to Toyo. Thanks.
 
how old is the battery? they are only good for so many start/recharge cycles.
all connections good and corosion free?
 
You probably have some corrosion at the battery terminals or a nearby connection in the circuit.
 
I don't think driving "a few miles" will give you enough of a recharge. I'm under the impression that you have to run at driving RPM's for about 30 minutes to put a decent charge on a dead battery.
 
3_puppies said:
how old is the battery? they are only good for so many start/recharge cycles.
all connections good and corosion free?
agreed. every time you kill a battery it will only charge up so far. and it lessens every time. in any case get it tested, its probaby toast
 
I think it could take more than one hour at 2000rpm or greater (freeway speed) to fully recharge a dead battery. Do that, then go to Sears/etc to get the battery checked.

And, it's always a good idea to clean the battery cables connections - both ends, battery and starter and ground.
 
An alternator is not made to recharge a dead battery. If you totally drain it the best thing for the battery is to put it on a charger when you get home.
 
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You can also get it "conditioned" at a local auto parts store, usually free of charge.
 
Fsm

Same thing happened to me this week. Tried charging the old battery but lost the full charge after driving 100 miles and several starts. Turns out that my battery is fine. I swapped in a spare Optima and same decreasing voltage after driving around for a day. Thought a fuse or fuseable link was blown or my alternator went bad.

Went through FSM charge system diagnostics and discovered my IC regulator is blown. No continuity. 30$ OEM part. Check yours if the battery conditioning does no good. OEM Alternator is under a bill as well if you need a new one.

Check your charge fuse first, then check your fuseable links and wires, then check your voltage regulator, then your alternator. Start cheap and work your way up.

Good luck
 
IC regulator?

IC regulator? Any chance you have a pic of this or can tell me where to scope it on my truck? I have a short (I think) that likes to kill my battery in about 6 hours. Right now, I have an off switch that is a PITA to mess with everytime I want to go somewhere or park it for more than 6 hrs. want to rule out all possibilities. New alternator, so battery charges up fine while driving and when switched off is fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

p.s. The PO had a dual battery setup at one time to run the winch. Also had new system wired for radio, and IPF lights wired on front, and trailer lights put in. When "short" became noticed and battery dying, a non-cruiser tech chopped the dual setup out of it and rewired it how he saw fit. Still have the short one inoperative winch later and cursing everytime I have to think about the problem. was quoted $1000 from dealer to install completely new harness - uhhh......NO!!!
 
You can pull fuses to help isolate a short. I think he is talking about the voltage regulator which is in the alternator.

One of these has helped on my other car in solving alternator/battery problems.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=91013

This will tell you your voltage while driving. If the voltage regulator is bad then it could over charge it. You need to test the current load with everything off to make sure you don't have any parasitic loads drawing current. If you got a current meter you can unhook the ground and make the connection with your meter. Make sure it can handle 10A at first since you could blow a fuse in your meter.
 
I would buy a new battery because it is going to let you down again real soon.

Modern batteries dont charge up like the old ones 20 years ago.

Check the ground wire on the engine block,this is often neglected and causes all sorts of problems in charging systems
 

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