Cruiser Additions and PM to keep me busy

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Step Sliders

Installed a set of the 4+ step sliders today from Man-a-fre. They arrived fairly undamaged but there were a few scratches/chips on the powder coating. Nothing that some touch up paint won't fix.

They weren't hard to install but it was a bit un-nerving to drill 12 new holes into the aluminum tub. Luckily I didn't **** any of the holes up :p.

A couple of pics...
steps 001.webp
steps 002.webp
 
Jon, looking good.

So my question is this since i have seen those types of sliders on 55s as well..... are those actually sliders? On the 80 as you know the slider is not bolted to the rocker but to the frame. There is a lot of load put on a slider when the truck comes down on them. These just seem like those 6 little bolts won't do much of anything but allowing the entire slider to push the whole rocker up? Am i wrong? explain how this type of slider works?
 
how do you like the flowmaster. I have it on mine too and its got a nice sound and I noticed a little extra in pick up when I did mine. Of course I was replacing a rusty as hell one that probably leaked. Overall a nice cheap upgrade. I think my new exhaust front to rear w/ flowmaster was 175$ installed and re routed to my liking.
 
I really like the flowmaster. It sounds throaty and has a nice gurgle on decel. Sounds like got a super deal on yours...I paid 251.

On a side note the 40 decided to act up today. The wife, my brother and his girlfriend took a trip to CB today. The truck has rub great for the past 2 weeks but today as we were boarding the fort fisher ferry, the truck didn't want to idle. Also it had a strange wistling sound coming from under the hood. I was able to drive it with the choke pulled half way out. Worked on it once we got to the beach and it idled fine with the air cleaner off (no whistle sound). Put the air cleaner back on and the b!tch wouldn't idle and it was whistling again. I'm thinking a monster vacuum leak at the base of the carb but not sure. The idle cuttoff solenoid wouldn't just stop working randomly but the air cleaner might being putting pressure on the carb when mounted and creating a leak...

I'm going to mess with it tomorrow so if anyone has any bright ideas, please throw them out there!

77cruiser said:
how do you like the flowmaster. I have it on mine too and its got a nice sound and I noticed a little extra in pick up when I did mine. Of course I was replacing a rusty as hell one that probably leaked. Overall a nice cheap upgrade. I think my new exhaust front to rear w/ flowmaster was 175$ installed and re routed to my liking.
Click to expand...
 
Classic symptoms of an intake area leak. use carb cleaner spray to try and isolate it. The RPMs will increase when you squirt where it is leaking.
 
Ramon is right. With an audible whistle, I would look for a vacuum cap or line that has come off.
 
Thanks for the tip Ramon and Barry.

I was able to find the leak (better yet leaks) pretty fast using the carb cleaner trick. It works great!!

It ended up being at the studs for the carb mount. I found some slightly larger and longer studs and used them instead of the OEM toyota ones. Runs way better now but I still have a small leak from the top of the two outer studs (that hold the throttle linkage plate to the carb base).

So should I use locktite on the manifold end of the studs so I can tighten them down more without stripping the butter soft aluminum threads or just permatex the area at the top of the stud??

At least I'm cruising now without the freaking choke keeping my idle at 1500 rpms :hillbilly:
 
concretejungle said:
Jon, looking good.

So my question is this since i have seen those types of sliders on 55s as well..... are those actually sliders? On the 80 as you know the slider is not bolted to the rocker but to the frame. There is a lot of load put on a slider when the truck comes down on them. These just seem like those 6 little bolts won't do much of anything but allowing the entire slider to push the whole rocker up? Am i wrong? explain how this type of slider works?
Click to expand...

Thanks Alex!

To answer your question, these aren't really true sliders like we have on the 80. I think the 55 series ones that IPOR sell are but I don't know many details about them.

These are b/w a regular stock step and a frame weld on slider. They give the rockers a good bit of protection from a minor scrub/hit, but you wouldn't want to put the wieght of the truck on one. I might add a frame tie in to these for some added beef...but I doubt I ever wheel this truck hard enough for it to be an issue. Also the wheel base of the 40 is so short that the likely hood you would use the sliders to pivot on/up/around an obstacle would be a lot less than in the 80.

But you're right they are not 'sliders'...just overdone steps.
 
cool. just wondering. Not trying to talk them down at all.... plus if i had a 40 that nice it wouldn't see many trails at all. Just a lot of town driving with the top and doors off!
 
Power Steering Conversion and Alternator Swap

After procurring all the parts that I think I'll need, I started working on a mini truck box and saginaw power steering pump (with Grainger pulley/bushing) conversion on the 40.

Right off the bat I've got a question. I've done some research on the 40 tech section but let's call it limited at best.

I'm moving the alternator from the driver side of the 2F in my truck to the 2F appropriate passenger side. Should I consider upgrading to a higher output alternator or new one while I'm at it?

The current alternator I have has the part number 27020-61012. I have no idea if this is a a 2F, 1F or something else F alternator so any help here would be great.

Here are a few pics of the in progress tear down...
DSC_0015.webp
DSC_0020.webp
DSC_0021.webp
 
I have read posts that suggest to do more research into upgrading the alternator to a "high output". I think most people just do it on the forums and don't look back, but some of the electrical gurus on here advise against it due to the possibility/probability of the fact that the 30+ year old wiring might/won't be able to handle the higher amperage.

Whether people have had problems or not after switching who knows?
 
Jon, w/ a PTO winch, I can't imagine what else you are going to be running to justify a HO altenator. If you have some other plans for a boomin' system :) or something else requiring more current draw, you can upgrade to a AC Delco unit fairly easily. There are lots of posts on the tech section, but if it were me, I'd stick w/ the OE.

:beer: R
 
jfz80 said:
I might have some bracketry here for pass. side install if you need.
Click to expand...

Where in the hell were you when I needed one :D.

I'm good, thanks...got one from eventhough from upstate.

I'll stick with the alternator I've got.

Thanks guys and stay tuned for more pics :).
 
Good luck.
I didnt have the time or place to do it myself so I am taking the easy route and my buddies at the what i call the Land Cruiser shack, which is better know as Toyota Techs are installing the Mini Truck upgrade on my cruiser next week. I collected the materials. I am using a MT box rebuilt, and a 60 series(1985) ps pump and pulley. It an upgrade I cant believe it took me this long to do.


By the way I have you gas cover and will send it to you. I picked it up from the warehouse today.
 
Made a little progress today/last night.

Got the old box out and pedestal mount off (pain in the @ss). Mounted the new pedestal and box. Also got the saginaw pump/resevoir and alternator mounted.

Next step will be to plumb the hoses and measure for new belts. All in all not a bad conversion so far...

A few more pics of the progress -





 
By far, the most difficult park of that conversion is removing the old pedestal and removing the pitman arm on the original box. The minitruck arm is bit too short to reuse and those buggers are ON there.
 
rutbeer said:
By far, the most difficult park of that conversion is removing the old pedestal and removing the pitman arm on the original box. The minitruck arm is bit too short to reuse and those buggers are ON there.
Click to expand...

You can say that again. Those rivets are a pain but at least there are only 4!

Once I got the mini box home and cleaned up from the pull-a-part yard, exchanged the broken puller for a new one, put some heat and lube to it...the impact wrench popped that sucker right off. The one on the manual box took a little more work but was easier than those rivets.

Now I need to figure out the hose fitting sizes for the saginaw pump. I've heard the ends for the mini hoses are plug and play but I would think metric and standard don't mix. If they don;t fit then I'll just have a hydraulic shop redo one of the ends on the mini hoses...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom