Cruiser Additions and PM to keep me busy

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S4Cruiser

S4Cruiser

SILVER Star
10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Mar 15, 2006
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169
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5,385
Location
Durham, NC
Since I'm still not working yet, I've dedicated some time this week to start on a few cruiser projects that were on my to-do list.

First for the 80 -
I had some bumper 'fitment issues' so I drove up to IPOR to have them sorted out. They fixed things up and threw in a skid plate for my troubles :bounce:. Here are a few crappy cell phone shots while at their shop.




Some of you might know that I recently purchased a 40 (some have probably seen it before ;) under the care of the PO), but I've never posted any pics up here. So...here are a few.





Trucks in great shape but there's always something to fix. I've been working on the carb to get it running right and also tracking down an exhaust leak.

Pulled the carb this afternoon to send off to JimC for a rebuild and found this -

Looks like the fuel was draining into the intake manifold for some reason...no worries a JimC rebuild should be the fix.

For the exhaust leak, I was surprised that there wasn't one b/w the block and headers. It ended up being where the header mounts to the exhaust -

This is a good thing and a new gasket should solve it. I ordered a Remflex one for the block so I'll probably order the Remflex piece for this too.

While I have the headers off, does anyone know what options are out there to get this header cleaned up (it's freaking nasty)? Blasted and painted, chemical dipped and ceramic coated, etc. I'm open to ideas and have some time while the carb is being rebuilt.



-Jon
 
My $.02 on the header is to scrap them. I have dealt w/ exhaust leaks for quite some time due to a header. The 6-1 flange is too long and will warp with time. I've had mine machined flat a few years back and it is leaking again - and I drive it VERY little. I took Marshall's (Trollhole) advice and sourced a pair of FJ62 manifolds. They can be see here on the Big Gay 2F writeup:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/168967-big-gay-2f-build-tech-10.html

Look at post 287. You'll have to get a bit of exhaust work done to tie the two manis into the main exhaust flange, and you'll have to grind the intake manifold for clearance (nothing too challenging), and you'll need to cut the bolthead recesses to match the thickness of the intake flange (I have a method that works and doesn't take too long):

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/267900-headers.html

I just did this this weekend and while it proved to be a bit challenging due to broken studs, I shouldn't have to worry about exhaust leaks again for a LONG time.


Let me know if you want any additional info.

:beer: R
 
sweet accord man!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that steph sure is a lucky girl ;)

glad the crew took care of you up in Fredricksburg.
 
Go jet hot on the header if you are keeping it.
 
:doh: and i knew that :rolleyes:

think that pic is raw steel on the bumper on one of the test fits of a "new" batch of bumpers
 
southerncruiser62 said:
Jon, did you color match the rear bumper on the 80?
Click to expand...

No, like Jason said, that was one of the raw steel bumpers from their newest batch.

But...I really liked the raw steel and how it looked against the sage body. Wonder how feasible ($ wise) it would be to get the sliders and front/rear bumpers blasted and then some type of clear coating on them for rust protection??
 
Jon, it's great to hear they took care of you, sux you had to go up there though.

Your 40 is just incredible. And even moreso w/ the working PTO. :)
 
S4Cruiser said:
No, like Jason said, that was one of the raw steel bumpers from their newest batch.

But...I really liked the raw steel and how it looked against the sage body. Wonder how feasible ($ wise) it would be to get the sliders and front/rear bumpers blasted and then some type of clear coating on them for rust protection??
Click to expand...

I would simply check on getting some sage paint and spray the bumpers and sliders to match the truck. I did that on my last truck and was very pleased. I had them stripped and then a pro shot them. The only trick is the sliders, but you could paint the slider portion black for touch up and only color match the wings.
 
Well upon further inspection, the header is :censor:. It was leaking where each tube combined at the collector. You can see holes when looking into the header from the collector end..so if anyone wants a 6-1 header for like 10 bucs, come get it.

Now I need to decide if I'm gonna get new headers or go back to stock.

Glad I didn't drop them off at HPC for a Jet-Hot coating that would've been money wasted :eek:.
 
Like Raymond has mentioned and after hearing his truck with the new exhaust work I would say go with the factory manifolds and clearance them.
 
southerncruiser62 said:
Like Raymond has mentioned and after hearing his truck with the new exhaust work I would say go with the factory manifolds and clearance them.
Click to expand...

The more and more I research, this seems to be the most rational/best route especially since I have to worry about the PTO driveshaft interferance/clearence with any aftermarket header.

Ramon (or anyone else) - got any leads on some 62 series exhaust manifolds??
 
eBay. $50 shipped for me :)
 
southerncruiser62 said:
Check Ebay, I know thats were he got his, you can also check the parting out section.
Click to expand...

Just PM'd a guy parting out a 62 series in WV...

Ramon, I'll be leaning on ya for the fitment specifics when I find a set :D. I've read both those threads you linked before and it seems fairly straight forward.

What exhaust gasket did you go with? I ask b/c I just got a Remflex 2F gasket in the mail and am hoping it will work??
 
Remflex 2F gasket. Pretty easy, just a few fitment mods. Give me a call once you have them in hand and I'll talk you through it.

:beer: R
 
Back to the 80

Installed an IPOR skid plate yesterday with a little help from my father in-law. This skid is pretty heavy and having two people makes it fairly simple and a lot safer. Took us about an hour and half from start to finish. Still need to trim the transmission support bolts or they'll most likely get mangled.
IPOR Skid 004.webp
 
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