Creeping Temps

[phxtlc]

Let me re-word this.

Today I drove to work 35 miles and temp was fine with A/C going.
Drove back home 35 miles and temp was fine even after 101 traffic. Had to make 2 stops along the way. After the first one I restarted the truck and temp was a bit high. By a mile it was back to normal. After the second stop it was high again and took a little longer to rebound back to normal.

I assume this is not typical even in the 112 degree valley heat.

Would I be correct in assuming fan clutch or should I look somewhere else?

P.S. I read through a bunch of posts on the main board but wanted the specific opinion of fellow desert dwellers.

Thanks.

 

[msahr]

My 80 does the same thing. It was what, 115 yesterday? I wasn't worried. Doesn't seem abnormal to me.

 

[hj60]

If you shut your engine off for up to half an hour or so, it gets hotter. It's called heat soak.
Completely normal, especially in the desert summers. If it doesn't go back down within a couple minutes of driving, then I'd worry.
If it creeps up while driving at steady speeds, then I'd worry.
Talk to Tools R Us about high performance cooling. He seems to know a thing or two about it.

 

[-Spike-]

If you shut your engine off for up to half an hour or so, it gets hotter. It's called heat soak.
Completely normal, especially in the desert summers.

Oh, I didn't catch the part where he shut the engine down. Yup, totally normal.

-Spike

 

[grrlscout89FJ62]

If you shut your engine off for up to half an hour or so, it gets hotter. It's called heat soak.

That must be what's happenin to me
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=164362

 

[hj60]

grrlscout: Gimme a call. Or shoot me an email.
I finally have a place to do some work on rigs and I even have time Sunday to look at it.
It'll be a bit of a drive, tho, as I live in E. Mesa now.

 

[Tools R Us]

Heat soak is normal. Your cooling system sounds like it's working acceptably, but with our climate cooling system performance and keeping it in top condition is critical. Air and water flow need to be unrestricted, cleaning the fins on the coolers can make a big difference. How is your fan clutch? Are the foam seals in place around the radiator? When was the last coolant flush? Any airflow issues will increase heat soak recovery time and fixing them will also improve A/C performance.

 

[Tools R Us]

That must be what's happenin to me
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=164362

Have never seen/driven your rig, so just guessing, but it sounds like you have at least two issues;

Batteries in most of the country die in the winter, here the heat kills them, we always replaced tons of them shortly after the 110F+ hit. The no crank and "Sometimes on the second or third turn, it'll stop at 8v." does it for me, betting on dirty terminals and/or bad battery.

This part doesn't help and isn't good, "If I'm running the AC full blast or there's bad traffic the needle gets past the third hash mark. On a long, steep climb, it just about touches the red." All of the standard cooling system questions apply, must important is, what is the condition the fan clutch?

If your coming to the wrenchin day I can bring a Midtronics battery, starting, charging system tester. Also have the stuff to improve the fan clutch (if yours is Toyota) and coolant test strips.

 

[clarkrw3]

I'm still having trouble with the LX. Anytime I am in stop and go traffic or let the car idle it over heats enough to shut off the ac. Not sure what to try...thicker CFT or helper fan???

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Just buy a 100 series and forget about heat issues.

 

[clarkrw3]

 

[-Spike-]

Do the fan clutch. Just did a friend's and it sucks. Air, that is. Lots of air.

-Spike

 

[grrlscout89FJ62]

Have never seen/driven your rig, so just guessing, but it sounds like you have at least two issues;

Batteries in most of the country die in the winter, here the heat kills them, we always replaced tons of them shortly after the 110F+ hit. The no crank and "Sometimes on the second or third turn, it'll stop at 8v." does it for me, betting on dirty terminals and/or bad battery.

This part doesn't help and isn't good, "If I'm running the AC full blast or there's bad traffic the needle gets past the third hash mark. On a long, steep climb, it just about touches the red." All of the standard cooling system questions apply, must important is, what is the condition the fan clutch?

If your coming to the wrenchin day I can bring a Midtronics battery, starting, charging system tester. Also have the stuff to improve the fan clutch (if yours is Toyota) and coolant test strips.

Thanks for the idears Kevin!

I just got my battery (and I even upgraded to a bigger one) about 2 months ago, new cables too. Think that stuff could go bad so soon?

When my rig was at Truckwerks, I asked them to look at the fan clutch. They seemed to think it was just fine. But the symptoms I'm experiencing seem to indicate otherwise.

I was thinking of ordering a new rad from Performance. Mine is original and sooooo gunked up. I also have a new tstat and some other bits for it. So this may indeed be a project for wrenching day! If I had some help (*hinthinthinthinthint* )

Anything else I would need to do this?

 

[Tools R Us]

Thanks for the idears Kevin!

I just got my battery (and I even upgraded to a bigger one) about 2 months ago, new cables too. Think that stuff could go bad so soon?

I doubt it. To get the 8v thing, with a new battery, it would take ether a huge load or more likely a bad connection. I will bring the tester to the wrenchin day, may shed some light?

When my rig was at Truckwerks, I asked them to look at the fan clutch. They seemed to think it was just fine. But the symptoms I'm experiencing seem to indicate otherwise.

I was thinking of ordering a new rad from Performance. Mine is original and sooooo gunked up. I also have a new tstat and some other bits for it. So this may indeed be a project for wrenching day! If I had some help (*hinthinthinthinthint* )

Anything else I would need to do this?

If the rad is gunked, that is probably your problem.

 

[Tools R Us]

I'm still having trouble with the LX. Anytime I am in stop and go traffic or let the car idle it over heats enough to shut off the ac. Not sure what to try...thicker CFT or helper fan???

IIRC we were somewhat conservative on yours, 6000? That should work fine, even a new stock blue hub shouldn't get to A/C cutoff. I don't have a problem putting thicker fluid in it, but will bet that's not the problem and if the true problem isn't addressed it will probably get worse.

 

[clarkrw3]

IIRC we were somewhat conservative on yours, 6000? That should work fine, even a new stock blue hub shouldn't get to A/C cutoff. I don't have a problem putting thicker fluid in it, but will bet that's not the problem and if the true problem isn't addressed it will probably get worse.

I hear you kevin. I just don't know what IT could be. I have replaced the radiator the thermastat, and the fan clutch, then we put some thicker CFT in the clutch and still......
I think I should go up to 10K in the clutch but the fluid has been flushed and 50:50 toyota red put in the radiator.....And I run Mobil 1 10wt50 oil changed every 5-7K. I only have 75k on the rig...

 

[hj60]

Does the engine run good?
Is the EGR working properly?
Do you have a vacuum leak?
Is your timing set right?
Do you have the right spark plugs?
Do you have anything mounted in front of your grill?
All things that can make an engine run hot.

 

[Tools R Us]

One more thing to add to Jonathan's list;

Do you have a condenser full of bug guts?

......
I think I should go up to 10K in the clutch.....

I have no problem with helping on that one, but would like to get a look at the truck this time. There is something else going on that needs to be nailed down. Are you planning on attending the wrenchin day?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I hear you kevin. I just don't know what IT could be. I have replaced the radiator the thermastat, and the fan clutch, then we put some thicker CFT in the clutch and still......
I think I should go up to 10K in the clutch but the fluid has been flushed and 50:50 toyota red put in the radiator.....And I run Mobil 1 10wt50 oil changed every 5-7K. I only have 75k on the rig...

Clark I found 1 gal of red and 1 pint of waterwetter to be the coolest mixture. Water wicks the heat better then coolant.

 

[clarkrw3]

I will try my best to be there at the wrench day...all systems are a go to be there as of now. I haven't cleaned off the bugs as of late, I do have my lightforce lights in front of the radiator. My fan shroud is broken, but taped back together. I broke in when doing the fan clutch and haven't been able to find a new one. foam around radiator is good.

It's driving me crazy, I have actually been thinking of taking it to the dealer...so you know I'm going crazy because all they will say is it's all the stuff you've done to this thing.