Anyone have any neat tricks for getting the crankshaft bolt loose? The Factory Service Manuals shows a shop specialty tool that bolts into the pulley so you can oppose the bolt, but someone has to have figured out something else without buy the tool??
Crankshaft bolt (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter apalt
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Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Trick I've heard is to wedge a breaker bar against something securely and bump the starter. Getting the bolt back on can be an issue too as the torque spec is above what most impact guns can do.
I just did the bolt removal thing on a couple of Hondas, and believe me, it's a LOT easier with the right tool. Here's the one that looks correct (?) for the 4.7L through Amazon......
Amazon.com: Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool - Lexus & Toyota: Automotive
Amazon.com: Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool - Lexus & Toyota: Automotive
I did the starter bump trick to remove mine a couple years ago when doing the timing belt with a breaker bar blocked up against the chassis rail, worked slick. For tightening it, I made a holder with flat plate, some pipe sleeves, and 2 bolts that threaded into the existing holes in the inside of the pulley & borrowed a 3/4" drive torque wrench.
I've seen this set recommended on the Taco boards.
OTC 4754 - ~$50 on ebay
Because it works on several engines and different pulleys it might be easier to resell when you are done.
OTC 4754 - ~$50 on ebay
Because it works on several engines and different pulleys it might be easier to resell when you are done.
Just ordered one of the otc 4754, but with some bar stock and few bolts, you could make one pretty easily. 
- Thread starter
- #7
I like the looks of the otc 4754.
Has anyone on here used one for a 100? I'm wondering: 1) whether the "kit" comes with the right bolts to go into the pulley holes, and 2) how well those scrawny bolts in the picture hold up to 181 ft-lbs of torque that the fsm says the crankbolt needs?
Has anyone on here used one for a 100? I'm wondering: 1) whether the "kit" comes with the right bolts to go into the pulley holes, and 2) how well those scrawny bolts in the picture hold up to 181 ft-lbs of torque that the fsm says the crankbolt needs?
I will know how it works on a 100, Monday.
uHu
Bridgeburner
What's wrong with replacing the starter with a big screwdriver (into the sprockets)?
The 4754 does not work, the pins only just get a bite so it can easily slip. Had it work once but not twice.
It is a heavy duty tool but pins are not long enough.
It is a heavy duty tool but pins are not long enough.
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no access?
If I remember correctly you cant access the flexplate ring gear from the bottom with the 2uz AT (like you can on many other trannys which have a lower cover over the ring gear/ torque convertor)
I hit my crankbolt as hard as my strongest IR impact gun would hit it to get it tight, along with clean threads and loctite.
If I remember correctly you cant access the flexplate ring gear from the bottom with the 2uz AT (like you can on many other trannys which have a lower cover over the ring gear/ torque convertor)
I hit my crankbolt as hard as my strongest IR impact gun would hit it to get it tight, along with clean threads and loctite.
Fabricate the tool if needed, there are threads here that will help if you search Timing belt. If you are a DIY, I highly recomend you read the threads as they are very useful and have some "headache" saving tips. Without the tool, I would not recomend you start this endeavor - PM me and I would be happy to share some "dont's" and do's" as I have completed this task the hard way.
agomez
Frijoles
I used a piece of 1/4" steel plate 3 feet long cut out a hole for the socket to fit and drilled the other two holes to mount two grade eight bolts to the pulley....I then used a 3/4" ratchet with a 5 foot long fence post as a lever to break the bolt loose...good luck.....same procedure to tighten...
Homegrown SST Tool in action
The crank tool is a must, imho.
Pic #1, notice the 48" Yakima cross bar on a breaker bar, although I enjoyed reading the Fence post method agomez. I was solo, hence the double tie down straps holding the bar opposite of me loosening the 181 ft pounds.
Pic #2, my favorite photo of a new belt lined up on the crank.
The crank tool is a must, imho.
Pic #1, notice the 48" Yakima cross bar on a breaker bar, although I enjoyed reading the Fence post method agomez. I was solo, hence the double tie down straps holding the bar opposite of me loosening the 181 ft pounds.
Pic #2, my favorite photo of a new belt lined up on the crank.
The two threaded holes in crankshaft pulley are M8-1.25 and bolts 2 3/4" long would do the trick.
