Crank Pulley/Crankshaft repair question

[Ctenosaurian]

As I posted previously, the keyways on my crankshaft and crankpulley have some extensive damage, likely as a result of the pulley nut not being properly torqued by the PO. I have been researching my options and wanted to see if anyone had any insights/thoughts on my best option. Here is what I have found thus far.

1)pull engine and replace crankshaft and crank pulley

2)weld the crank pulley onto the crankshaft, has been done before with good results (at least when properly welded), although any future pulley replacement would require crankshaft replacement.

3) (probably best option) have a machinist repair the damage to the keyway by brazing the damaged portion and filing it to tightly fit a new key into the crank. This can be done without having to remove the engine and would only require replacing some seals and the pulley. Many people have done this in the past with 50k miles without a problem. Only problem is finding someone locally who can braze for me (know anyone?). I am thinking that this would be the best fix.

Thanks to Jon, I have a good crank pulley and a good crankshaft if I went with option #1, although it is a bit daunting to think about having to pull the engine and disassemble the engine to do this, especially as I don't have a garage to do this in, not to mention my lack of experience. I am leaning towards option three which was recommended by quite a few people on the forum. This seems to be a solid fix and does not require pulling the engine.

What does everyone think? Has anyone dealt with this type of repair in the past? Also, could anyone recommend someone to braze the crankshaft for me if I decide to go that route?

Thanks!!

Ian

 

[pappy]

My dos centavos ...

Do it right. The question is how long to you want to keep you FJ40? The longer you plan on owning it, the more effort should be put into doing the job.

While pulling the engine might sound daunting, it's not that bad on an FJ40. I would get the engine out and stripped down to the long block. Take long block to Budlong, and let them install the crank. Get the crank machined, install new bearings and seals, and call it even.

Check the compression on the engine to make sure the rest is OK. If so I would leave the pistons in the block and just do the crank. Those old 2Fs get to leaking and this would be a good time to replace all the gaskets and seals (purchase from AmToy). There is also a plug on the cylinder head to an oil galley that can pop out and cause a catastrophic loss of oil pressure. I would let Budlong take care of that too (drilling, tapping, and installing a pipe plug).

You have an opportunity to increase the longevity of that 2F, and at the same time decrease any future worries. Having a leak-free engine with a solid bottom end will go a long way to keeping you happy in the long run.

Oh, a Peso right now is worth about 7¢, so my dos centavos is worth, well, not much.

P.S. I have a 2F engine manual if you want to look at it.

 

[Ctenosaurian]

Jon-
Deep down I think I feel the same, my only concern being the cost. I do intend to have the LC for a long time, so you are right, it would be better to just deal with the problem now and not have to worry about it in the future. I found a .pdf of the 2F engine repair manual from Toyota (for an '80 I think) that has been helpful.

Thanks for the help. I will call Budlong and start looking into how much dinero I am going to need.

 

[Ctenosaurian]

I talked to Budlong and they can do the work for what sounds like a reasonable price ($600-700) but they said that they can't warranty the work unless they do a much more extensive check of other components which would double the price. Do you think I am better off paying more to get the warranty? More specifically, if it were your motor (and you were inexperienced with repair like me) what do you think you would do. Sorry for all the questions, it really helps to have input from people who know more about these matters.

Ian

 

[Beowulf]

Ian,
You can actually do a combination if $$ and time are issues. The weld job is much too ghetto for most of us but it would be cheap and quick and if you are needing some time and experience before you tear down the engine then this combo of options would get you there.

If you can't swallow the ghetto fix then do the machining on the crank and go to option 1 when you have the time and $$ to do it right.

-Mike-

 

[sl33p3]

I talked to Budlong and they can do the work for what sounds like a reasonable price ($600-700) but they said that they can't warranty the work unless they do a much more extensive check of other components which would double the price. Do you think I am better off paying more to get the warranty? More specifically, if it were your motor (and you were inexperienced with repair like me) what do you think you would do. Sorry for all the questions, it really helps to have input from people who know more about these matters.

Ian

i fall into the "while i'm there" type... so take this with that angle. you are paying them too look over a larger portion of your motor and help you identify and address potential issues that could be worse down the road, or cause you to repull the motor later or similar levels of effort. if you are not comfortable/familiar with their checks and the processes to do so and are afraid you'd miss something, you could pay them. that being said there are plenty of fellas here with 2f experience that i'm sure (without signing them up ) would help you for a more liquid price accomplish largely the same thing. you might still end up going to BL for the repairs (if needed), but wouldn't have paid a few dollars for their inspection time. i like learning, and feeling like i know whats going on int here, but it usually comes with the price of the time to complete my projects.

IMO it boils down to, are you the guy who feels better paying a shop you trust to do something, or doing it yourself (or with help). and doing it right the first time is a no brainer (i hate doing the same thing twice), only question to me is who are you going to pay for it, yourself and buddies, or an experienced shop?

of course, best of luck with either.

 

[pappy]

What else was Todd going to do to make it under warranty?

 

[Ctenosaurian]

Pappy-
To be honest, I can't remember, I have been leaning more towards doing as much on my own if there are people willing to help me out.

Beowulf-
I tend to agree with you. I am not interested in welding the pulley on, sounds quite ghetto to me and I have read about some bad experiences going that route, just threw it out there as a last ditch option.

sl33p3-
I would much prefer to pull the engine and tear it down so that I can learn more about the engine. It would be a great learning experience for me. If people want to lend a hand, I am game for doing as much as possible before possibly taking the block to Budlong if further work needed to be done. The whole point of getting the FJ, besides really wanting one, was to learn more about repairing vehicles and this is the perfect time to start.

 

[BionicCruiser]

that is exactly how I went from barely being able to change oil, to rebuilding an engine. worked on my 2F with help for years and then I pulled it and and rebuilt a 350 with a book for guidance and installed. only thing I farmed out was the transmission rebuild. that's the only part I have had fail so far...