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@jfz80, I appreciate the input. That's a great list, I was hoping more people who had the tank cracking issue would chime in. Those are the ones we know about through postings, I was hoping some others who haven't posted would come forward...always an assumption that there are more. Toyota responded by sending me an 800 number to call that nobody answers Lol.
I just assumed that is where it was. I tightened the hose on the tank and checked a few other things, when it is over 2/3 it drains in large puddlesDoes it leak when full ?
I believe those cracks are just in the tar coating on the tank. Should not be an issue except perhaps corrosion of water can get to and held at metal tank.
And I'm ready for an answer. Cheaper fuel is no good if it throws off your system. Guess I can't get 40bux when the light comes on anymore
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I will have to check that spot out, it would be nice to get some help on a tank from Toyota, it is a pricing thing to fix. Is there any after market replacements? I have seen the long range tanks but those run over $1000.This is the general culprit for us here in this thread. At the top of the tank there is a step down to match second row floorboard section. Also in that area is a groove on top of tank for the e brake cable routing. This three way stamped curve is where the tanks are failing.
View attachment 1191833 View attachment 1191834
I'm with 93. It's not pressure. I'm curious if a tank defect or a factor of our trucks (excessive body flex?) that is causing the failures.
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My question, what are others doing? It seems some are indicating they are just only filling 1/2 full and leaving as is. Is this OK to do until I figure out if I want to further try and repair myself or have a professional take a look?
I'm basically trying to get a running tally of how many of these tanks fail in the same manner to send Mr. T a nastygram and ask for a replacement tank or a UHMWPE replacement solution. New tanks aren't cheap and used ones don't last all that long.
FYI: those who suggest a charcoal canister is the culprit. The gas cap is designed to offload excessive pressure in the event the evap system isn't functioning properly and you have a tank vent tube which also works in the same manner. The cracking is due to a piss poor job of stamping the metal. The design of the upper part of the tank requires some serious stretching of the metal when stamped and creates a thin spot in the metal under a lot of tension. It's a stress crack from years of hard miles.
Potential Solution: so I was talking to the Girlfriends dad...restores old hot rods and is an all around car guy, he just patched the tank on his 95 Ford F-350 last week. Him and a few super old hot rod buddies got together and decided to clean the area really well, flux and solder a perimeter around the crack and then flux and solder a thin copper patch to match. Then they soldered the patch to the tank...apparently it went really well. Apparently his buddy has done this to numerous steel tanks and hasn't had a failed patch in 30 some odd years. Might give this a try depending on how easily I can replicate the cracked area with copper sheet. It beats hardening the already fragile metal and potentially causing more problems.
Sorry it's taken me a bit to respond, how would you have me re-title the post? Open to suggestions..
Has worked for me for several years. Just watch for smokers at red lights when full
It is close to the muffler and can find its way to driveshaft to be slung around but I'd worry more about vapor and ignition source (spark) I try not to overfill but it has happened a few times and I'm still here.
And @LandCruisinMy93 if the goal of the thread is to document all the users with failed tanks a thread title change might benefit your/our quest.