Cracked frame... what to do...

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MANUCHAO

omnia mea mecum porto
Joined
Nov 8, 2004
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MilkyWay
Hey all.

My Ellsworth ID, it is about 8 years old..bought it brand new.
Has been a great rig but it finally bit the dust a couple of weeks ago maybe longer.:crybaby::crybaby::crybaby:

I was going to change the BB when I noticed two cracks, one on the front triangle just above the bottom bracket, right on the weld (I'll post pics later) and a crack on the rear triangle off of the chain stay.:bang::bang:
That one is a metal fatigue as it is a one piece of aluminum.

I contacted the MFG and they unfortunately no longer produce this model any more. I was offer a limited life time warranty (BS) that amounts to a $600 to a $750 credit towards any of their frames.:rolleyes::rolleyes:
At $2k to $2500 a pop.. it is out of my league.:eek:
I was going to fork out the $$ but I will be gone for a whole year (hoping to) driving to Argentina in about 12 or so months. :cool:
So, Im now got my bike back from the LBS and looking a having someone weld the crack on the frame...;)

Any of yah recomend anyone here in SOCAL? and I know this would have to be a TIG weld as the frame is made of aluminum..:hhmm:

Yes, I know its probably not safe but I have decided to do so anyways.. and run this rig with a pach up job......;)

Im going to see if I can get the chain stay replaced by the MFG as those are still in production.


Thanks for any input !!!
 
Please don't "patch" it back together. The frame is heat treated after welding and it will crack again. I'm trying to look out for your manjunk here. Please don't prove Darwin right. Oh and you could die also.
 
The frame is toast, so don't bother trying to repair. Eight years of duty is really more than can be expected for a frame. Sorry, time for a new mount.
 
I would just find another used Ellsworth online. They have made some pretty good changes since then. I have meet Tony Ellsworth ,and there a great company. I see them on ebay all the time for cheap. The Joker was a great all mountain frame you can get for cheap now. I had the ellsworth Isis and love it.
 
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Yes, you will have to heat treat the aluminum after welding. I would trash the frame, 8 years is past the life expectancy for a lite aluminum frame. Huge leaps forward have been made to bicycle suspension. There are a lot of good deals on new frames. I wouldn't be looking at Ellsworth, their bikes are dated and way overpriced.
 
I wouldn't be looking at Ellsworth, their bikes are dated and way overpriced.

Yeh they overpriced alright...

Thanks for all the input guys... guess is time to look for a used frame.
 
I would check out Turner, awesome frames and even better cust. service, Dave Turner and crew are good people and stand behind their product,
Good luck
 
what kind of bike would you be looking for? more than 4 inches of travel? I may sell my Titus Racer X 2008 .... I just bought their new X Carbon so I still love Titus...

Let me know.
 
Nothing wrong with Ellsworth.
 
Wow cracked on both the front and rear triangle. I guess that's what all that riding in CB will get you? I kid in jealousy, I wish I could go on the sweet trips you go on.

I don't think you will "die," but it might snap on you during a ride. Needless to say, I probably wouldn't be doing 10 ft drops or bombing down trails at 30+mph on it. If you can get it patched for cheap, it might make for a good easy trail bike/ride with your girlfiend/wife, but for everyday use, your best bet might be to look for a new frame. Keep an eye out for Yeti 575 frames, they are under 1K all over the place here on CO craigslists.
 
Wow cracked on both the front and rear triangle. I guess that's what all that riding in CB will get you? I kid in jealousy, I wish I could go on the sweet trips you go on.

I don't think you will "die," but it might snap on you during a ride. Needless to say, I probably wouldn't be doing 10 ft drops or bombing down trails at 30+mph on it. If you can get it patched for cheap, it might make for a good easy trail bike/ride with your girlfiend/wife, but for everyday use, your best bet might be to look for a new frame. Keep an eye out for Yeti 575 frames, they are under 1K all over the place here on CO craigslists.

Thanks eh.... yeah them trips ARE sweeeet.
I think I might of cracked the frame at Monarch Crest and did not see the crack till a couple of weeks ago.

Yeh i dont think I will die either and will be patching it up..but Im also looking into another rig as we'll be spending a month in CO., this summer.......

BTW I dig Yeti's... my previous rig was a yeti but it too broke while in Moab...
 
Found a replacement frame (another ID) off of ebay for cheap.. Im back on the saddle !!!!;);););)
 
I ended up with an exact frame "ellsworth id".
I couldn't pass on it for the price...
The previous frame stood the abuse for 8 years..
I dont ride as hard any more, thus I went with the same....
 
Awesome to hear you found an Ells again! I have a custom color 2010 Moment available if you decide you need a $5500 bike anytime soon! Riding my Truth mostly.

Seriously Ells is absolutely the bomb and I'm always happy to hear about another Cruiserhead with an Ells.
 
Welding?

You can weld the frame and it does not necessarily need to be heat treated. Not all aluminum's can be heat treated. The following was cut and pasted from an article on this topic and it explains it better than i can. Take the time to read it and know what material your frame is made of and you can make an informed decision yourself.

The non-heat-treatable alloys are composed of the 1XXX, 3XXX, 4XXX, and 5XXX series. It is not possible to strengthen these alloys by heat treatment. They can only be strengthened by cold working (also called strain hardening). The 1XXX alloys, such as 1100, 1188, or 1350, are essentially pure aluminum (99+% purity). They are relatively soft and weak, with good corrosion resistance, and are usually used where high electrical conductivity is required, such as for bus bars or as electrical conductors. They are also used in certain applications that require a high degree of resistance to corrosion. All of these alloys are readily weldable.

The 3XXX series of alloys have various levels of manganese (Mn) added to strengthen them and improve their response to cold work. They are of moderate strength, have good corrosion resistance, and are readily weldable. They are used for air conditioning and refrigeration systems, non-structural building trim, and other applications.

The 4XXX series of alloys have silicon (Si) added as an alloying element to reduce the melting point and increase their fluidity in the molten state. These alloys are used for welding and brazing filler materials and for sand and die castings. They are the least crack-sensitive of all the aluminum alloys.

The 5XXX series of alloys have magnesium (Mg) added in order to increase their strength and ability to work-harden. They are generally very corrosion resistant and have the highest strengths of any of the non-heat-treatable alloys. Increasing magnesium content in these alloys results in increasing strength levels. These alloys are commonly available in the form of sheet, plate and strip, and are the most common structural aluminum alloys. They are generally not available as extruded sections, because they are expensive to extrude. They are readily weldable, in most cases, with or without filler metal. However, there is an Al-Mg cracking peak at approximately 2.5% Mg, so care must be used in welding alloys such as 5052. It should not be welded autogenously (i.e., without adding filler metal). Weld filler metal with a high Mg content, such as 5356, should be used to reduce the crack sensitivity.

The heat-treatable alloys are contained in the 2XXX, 6XXX, and 7XXX alloy families. The 2XXX family of alloys are high strength Al-Cu alloys used mainly for aerospace applications. In some environments, they can exhibit poor corrosion resistance. In general, most alloys in this series are considered non-weldable. A prime example of a non-weldable alloy in this series, which is attractive to designers because of its high strength, is alloy 2024. This alloy is commonly used in airframes, where it is almost always riveted. It is extremely crack-sensitive and almost impossible to weld successfully using standard techniques.

Only two common structural alloys in the 2XXX series are weldable: 2219 and 2519. Alloy 2219 is very easily weldable and has been extensively welded in fabricating the external tanks for the U.S. space shuttle. This alloy gets its good weldability because of its higher copper content, approximately 6%. A closely related alloy, which is also very weldable, is 2519. It was developed for fabrication of armored vehicles. Although there are detailed exceptions to this rule, the designer should probably consider all other alloys in the 2XXX series to be non-weldable.

The 6XXX series of alloys are the alloys probably most often encountered in structural work. They are relatively strong (although not as strong as the 2XXX or 7XXX series) and have good corrosion resistance. They are most often supplied as extrusions. In fact, if the designer specifies an extrusion, it will almost certainly be supplied as a 6XXX alloy. 6XXX alloys may also be supplied as sheet, plate and bar, and are the most common heat treatable structural alloys. Although all alloys in this series tend to be crack-sensitive, they are all considered weldable and are, in fact, welded every day. However, the correct weld filler metal must be used to eliminate cracking. Additionally, these alloys will usually crack if they are welded either without, or with insufficient, filler metal additions.

The 7XXX alloys are the ones that usually trip designers up. They are the very high strength Al-Zn or Al-Zn-Mg-Cu alloys that are often used in aerospace fabrication, and are supplied in the form of sheet, plate, forgings, and bar, as well as extrusions. With the few exceptions noted below, the designer should assume that the 7XXX alloys are non-weldable. The most common of these alloys is 7075, which should never be welded for structural applications. In addition, these alloys often suffer from poor corrosion performance in many environments.

A few of the 7XXX series defy the general rule and are weldable. These are alloys 7003 and 7005, which are often seen as extrusions, and 7039, which is most often seen as sheet or plate. Some common uses of these alloys today are bicycle frames and baseball bats, both of which are welded. These alloys are easily welded and can sometimes offer strength advantages in the as-welded condition over the 6XXX and 5XXX alloys.

There is one other exception to the general rule that 2XXX and 7XXX alloys are unweldable. There are a number of thick cast and/or wrought plate alloys designed as mold plate material for the injection molding industry. These alloys, which include Alca Plus, Alca Max, and QC-7, are all very close in chemistry to 7075 or 2618. The designer should absolutely avoid structural welds on these alloys. However, welding is often performed on these alloys to correct machining mistakes, die erosion, etc. This is acceptable because there are only low stresses on such welds and, in fact, the weld is often in compression.
 
I just read the last post..
Thanks for posting it....

I was told to find an ATV shop to do the welding......
 

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