Land Bruiser said:
I never actually looked it up, I'm going by what Robbie has posted.
Couple of questions regarding my tranny..
- Thread starter Land Bruiser
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I never actually looked it up, I'm going by what Robbie has posted.
- Thread starter
- #22
duh... 
Land Bruiser- not sure about your other problem, but for the harsh shift (delayed downshift to 1st gear when braking then reaccelerating while at slow speeds), I believe this is normal. My old '93 LC with the A442F tranny did it, and my newer '97 LX with the A343F tranny does it as well- the '97 has done it since I got it at 35k and has had regular tranny fluid changes every 15k since new. I have heard similar complaints from many members on the forum and I believe it is normal operation.
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Land Bruiser said:duh...
You obviously don't know Robbie.
semlin
curmudgeon
i suggest dropping the drive shafts, separating the two parts, and cleaning all the old grease between them out. you may have a little preload in one of the drive shafts.
otherwise, IIRC the FSM for my 93 w/442F suggests tranny solenoid changes for harsh shifting and helps you isolate which one to replace.
otherwise, IIRC the FSM for my 93 w/442F suggests tranny solenoid changes for harsh shifting and helps you isolate which one to replace.
R
robbie
Guest
I jsut happen to see this thread and Most of the truck I have worked on Idle at or near 600 rpm. I guess in looking at the FSM It does state 650-+ 50. The computer controls this fully in all 93-97 years. And If I had a truck that Idled at 700 all the time, both in gear and out of gear I think that may be a problem Even at 700 RPm there is a little pull on the Torque converter. It has been a long time since I have looked at the FSM for a tune up. I do know that any 95-97 that idles that high I would be looking at some things, like dirty Throttle body, misadjusted TPS, timing off. Just my thoughts. To to say it again, I do not see any trucks with idles that high, even if the specs state that. Maybe some other can speak up so we can see if they have Idles that high. It is real hard to diagnosis the tranny, if the engine is not right, then the tranny can mask engine problem or vise versa. The FSM is a great source for dignastoic table for testing the electronics. good luck later robbie
R
robbie
Guest
I have thought some more on idle. I believe the book is stating idle when in park wtih engine warm. So you could see that kind of spec's. I really can not remember if I have seen it that high in park except with the A/C on, even more R's. As for it in drive it really needs to be around the 600 RPM's range other wise you are fighting it and warming the ATF at a stop. Any how just some more thoughts to think about. later robbie
- Thread starter
- #29
First off, it was Ultimauk who has the idle at 700.. My idle is 650, and when I put it in drive it goes down to 600 (according to the OBDII scanner).... I wasnt trying to discredit Robbie (I have read tons of useful information he has posted throughout the past), but Landtank should double check his info before he posts it as being "engine idle SPEC". Try looking it up for yourself, you do have a FSM dont you? You should!! "Robbie in drive idle spec" would have been better.. lol... Anyways.. I have checked and changed my tranny fluid several times, even added more to see if there was a difference. IT IS NOT LOW TRANNY FLUID!! geez... I wish it was that easy. I am thinking of pulling the drivelines and doing what Semlin has suggested. I did notice that the front looks dry around the splines versus the rear, which has grease on and around the splines.. So, maybe one of my problems lies in the driveshaft (the 50mph rumble). I still think its in the tranny though. As far as the harsh 1st to 2nd shift, Im still stumped.. I have alleviated it by turning the TPS down to about 5% accprding to the OBDII scanner, which the FSM calls for the TPS to be in between 7-11%. FWIW I have ajusted the TPS with an ohms meter as well, in the past, and the kickdown cable many times. I also get a wierd dragging transmission feel when Im braking SOMETIMES.. I know these things are supposed to use the engine compression to help brake(and I thought that was only with the overdrive on), but this dosnt seem right .. I do need to do my brakes, though... If anyone has any info regarding tranny solenoids being related to the 1st to 2nd shift problem, I would love to hear what you have to say..
Mr Bruiser,
Your tone is a bit harsh for someone with 12 whole posts under his belt.
That is going to turn off people who are trying to help you.
Your tone is a bit harsh for someone with 12 whole posts under his belt.
That is going to turn off people who are trying to help you.
Sorry for creating such a huge issue here. If I read something that Robbie post up as being as such I consider it gold. He's one of the few people I don't question.
Best of luck finding your problem.
Best of luck finding your problem.
semlin
curmudgeon
Land Bruiser said:
uh, cough cough, info correlating shifting problems to tranny solenoids should be in your FSM, cough
I can offer a small bit of credibility here as I previously owned an AAmco transmission shop . Unfortunately I am unfamiliar with both of the transmissions mentioned in this thread. What I can say is that plus or minus 100 rpm at idle will make no difference in a 1-2 shift. Additionally 1 or 2 quarts low on fluid will not cause harsh shifting unless you can feel a slip as the tranny is between gears and then slams into second. All bets are off if your engine is running poorly or you find a great deal of slop in your driveline.
Many tranny's have what are known as accumulator valves ,which fill up with fluid (prior to the actual clutch pack or band which determines appropriate gear) thus cushoning the shift. Many tranny' also have spring packs in the clutch packs which also cushion shifts. There are other internal problems which can present the type problem you are experiencing. If you can get a hold of a flow chart , you can probably diagnose the problem. The best place to try would be a dealer. I know I haven't helped you correct your problem, but It should lead you in a more focused direction.Hope it helps
Many tranny's have what are known as accumulator valves ,which fill up with fluid (prior to the actual clutch pack or band which determines appropriate gear) thus cushoning the shift. Many tranny' also have spring packs in the clutch packs which also cushion shifts. There are other internal problems which can present the type problem you are experiencing. If you can get a hold of a flow chart , you can probably diagnose the problem. The best place to try would be a dealer. I know I haven't helped you correct your problem, but It should lead you in a more focused direction.Hope it helps
semlin said:uh, cough cough, info correlating shifting problems to tranny solenoids should be in your FSM, cough
Yup, He's gota book, he don't need us...
I read your post when you originally posted. Let's first try to deal with the problem your having when your truck shifts into overdrive. What you call sounding like a train.
If you take the time to do what I'm telling you, you may be able to diagnose this problem.
My 96 shifts into overdrive and shortly thereafter the torque converter locks up. I assume this is normal function for these vehicles.
If you reach speed, say 60 mph and lightly touch your brake, you should notice an approx 200 rpm increase. The converter has come out of lock-up. Release pressure on the brake and lock-up should resume, 200 rpm decrease. Do this a couple of times until your comfortable with the amount of brake pressure neccesary to cause the converter to unlock. Now come to a complete stop and begin driving normally, maintaining enough preesure on the brake pedal to insure lock-up cannot take place but not enough pressure to create drag. If you get thru all your shift points consistently without experiencing the problem, you have either a converter problem or an internal transmission problem. Unless you are an experienced tranny mechanic you won't be fixing this one yourself.
If no problem occurs while performing this test but returns with normal driving, one thing you can try if you like is General Motors limited slip differential oil, added to the trans fluid. This is a very small bottle of oil additive used in rear ends, We have used this many times in vehicles displaying the same type of problem you describe with great success. I might add that the vehicles I refer to showed no sign of any other problem. Fluid was bright red no metal in pans and no other discrepancies. Good luck, let me know what happens
Matt
If you take the time to do what I'm telling you, you may be able to diagnose this problem.
My 96 shifts into overdrive and shortly thereafter the torque converter locks up. I assume this is normal function for these vehicles.
If you reach speed, say 60 mph and lightly touch your brake, you should notice an approx 200 rpm increase. The converter has come out of lock-up. Release pressure on the brake and lock-up should resume, 200 rpm decrease. Do this a couple of times until your comfortable with the amount of brake pressure neccesary to cause the converter to unlock. Now come to a complete stop and begin driving normally, maintaining enough preesure on the brake pedal to insure lock-up cannot take place but not enough pressure to create drag. If you get thru all your shift points consistently without experiencing the problem, you have either a converter problem or an internal transmission problem. Unless you are an experienced tranny mechanic you won't be fixing this one yourself.
If no problem occurs while performing this test but returns with normal driving, one thing you can try if you like is General Motors limited slip differential oil, added to the trans fluid. This is a very small bottle of oil additive used in rear ends, We have used this many times in vehicles displaying the same type of problem you describe with great success. I might add that the vehicles I refer to showed no sign of any other problem. Fluid was bright red no metal in pans and no other discrepancies. Good luck, let me know what happens
Matt
I have a 97 LX450 and there is absolutely no harshness at all. I have been amazed at how smoothly the thing shifts both down and up. I have to concentrate to feel the thing shift. There is something wrong with these trucks. VW had a similar problem with their 4 speed auto's and it was a wiring harness inside the transmission under the throttle body. I have not been inside the LC transmission yet but I assume there are electrics inside. My advice would be to check the solenoids outside and then somebody needs to go exploring. Good luck.
Harsh shifting,
my 96 does a strange shift while at inbetween speeds.
Seems to go to 1st, spin up then hit 2nd a little harsh.
Most noticable when going around a round-a-bout.
Sharp turn left at approx 15mph.
2cruisers I am going to try you torque convert test.
Thats sounds like good advice to diagnose the torque converter.
I have been suspicious of mine as the hole plug was missing.
my 96 does a strange shift while at inbetween speeds.
Seems to go to 1st, spin up then hit 2nd a little harsh.
Most noticable when going around a round-a-bout.
Sharp turn left at approx 15mph.
2cruisers I am going to try you torque convert test.
Thats sounds like good advice to diagnose the torque converter.
I have been suspicious of mine as the hole plug was missing.
Every body suffer from same issue
Every body suffer from same issuecc93cruiser said:Just like the title says, while backing up today in the morning, my tranny started to all of the sudden slip.... At first, I thought I just didn't put it into reverse/gear correctly, but I tried it again and a noticed that it would go into reverse/gear with no problem, but after I reached 10mph it started to slip and the rpms/engine just reved up
Tranny slipped again once it reached 10mph. I can't go faster than 10mph in reverse without the tranny slipping
