I was replacing hoses and flushing antifreeze and noticed that the core plug under the intake manifold was leaking. Doesn't appear to be leaking too badly, can't even see it drip while idling, and hot. Of course I searched and got the crap scared out of me after seeing the pictures of that same core plug with a hairline crack under it. So I went out and double checked and there is no crack.. It's odd that is the only plug I could find any info on people having trouble with. On the plus side my radiator looks to be new, absolutely clean as a whistle inside, thinking the PO replaced it before I got it from carmax a year ago. As far as the fix goes, I was thinking of putting in the rubber core plug "thingy", to avoid pulling the intake right now.. Any thoughts on this? My Dad has a beater truck that he put one in more than 2 years ago and hasn't had any problems with, so figured that was an option..
core plug leaking
- Thread starter steveVA
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- Thread starter
- #2
anyone? kinda wondering what I should do?
Are you talking about the PHH?
http://www.4wdtoyotaowner.com/PHH.html
http://www.4wdtoyotaowner.com/PHH.html
- Thread starter
- #4
I wish I was talking about that.. Its the freeze/core plug in this picture on this thread..... https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=116636&highlight=freeze+plug
hmmmmm....i would inspect carefully to make sure it's not a crack. If it's just the plug, one can be had for cheap. The problem is getting the old one out. I tried drilling a hole, screwing a screw in it and pulling it out and it didn't work. So i eventually punched it through and pushed it to the side. Then used some locktit and installed a new one. Installation was easy.
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- #6
I sanded the area just under the plug till it was shiny, couldn't see a crack, also the actual plug has coolant in it, so this would indicate that it is indeed coming from the plug and not a crack.
What did you remove to gain access to the plug? Intake, or otherwise? I talked to a trustworthy mechanic and he said that he uses a slide hammer with a sheet metal screw on the end and it should "pop right out".. He said jokingly that I should fix that one and sell it because the next one that is going to go is the one on the back of the engine, that requires the tranny to be pulled.. It's strange but I have been on these boards for more than 2 years, and never seen, except for searching, a problem with freeze plugs.
What did you remove to gain access to the plug? Intake, or otherwise? I talked to a trustworthy mechanic and he said that he uses a slide hammer with a sheet metal screw on the end and it should "pop right out".. He said jokingly that I should fix that one and sell it because the next one that is going to go is the one on the back of the engine, that requires the tranny to be pulled.. It's strange but I have been on these boards for more than 2 years, and never seen, except for searching, a problem with freeze plugs.
The slide hammer trick may work. It didn't for me...it just ripped the screw out. I replaced mine (long story short) because i was going to install a block heater. It was being installed just under the exhaust manifold, where it's easy to access the plug. However, after removing the plug and prepping the area, i went to install the heater only to realize i had the wrong size. The heater plug was too small and would not fill the hole. So, since my truck was my DD i had to act quick. So i went to the local dealership and got a replacement plug. Asked one of the board members what type of loctite to use to replace the plug with, and hammered it in gently using a brass drift. Good to go.
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- #8
cool, thanks, so what kind of loctite did you use? I may just use one of the expandable rubber plugs, bad idea?
You might want to look for a block heater..afaik that is also the frost plug that is used for the factory block heater on 1997 models....the block heater has a rubber/neoprene seal that will certainly stop the leak - if it is just the plug seam ...although you probably don't need the heater where you are - the block heater also has little "wings" that pull the unit into seal the neoprene against the block and they do not impede coolant flow unnecessarily. Also the heater is a "low impact" replacement which might be good given that others have reported stress crack here.
Also if you are going to remove the plug in the traditional way (with a hammer and drift) I would be inclined to strike towards the top of the plug cavity rather than the bottom .. the plugs are tapered a small amount to seal ... spinning it on the horizontal axis and OUT at the bottom edge may be better that IN at the bottom edge as this may have the advantage of minimizing the stress by striking away from - as well as not forcing the plug into - the area where others have found stress cracks (eg 6 o'clock) - could be a very good thing.
Also if you are going to remove the plug in the traditional way (with a hammer and drift) I would be inclined to strike towards the top of the plug cavity rather than the bottom .. the plugs are tapered a small amount to seal ... spinning it on the horizontal axis and OUT at the bottom edge may be better that IN at the bottom edge as this may have the advantage of minimizing the stress by striking away from - as well as not forcing the plug into - the area where others have found stress cracks (eg 6 o'clock) - could be a very good thing.
- Thread starter
- #10
thanks, that makes sense, and I will certainly try and remove it as "gently" as possible. The stress crack thing really worries me, which is one reason for using the rubber plug to seal it back up, I would think it would cause less stress that hammering a brass plug back in there.. fingers crossed!!
thanks
Steven
thanks
Steven
Let me go look in the shop and see if i can remember/find what type of loctite i used. I PMed either clownmidget or turbocruiser and asked them what they would suggest for loctite.
The plug wasn't but a dollar and some change. Really cheap. And honestly, hammering it in was a breeze. Hardly even touched the block. I would not worry about stressing the block enough to crack it from replacing the freeze plug.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=116658&highlight=block+heater&page=2
there is the first link to my questions on the install of the block heater.
The plug wasn't but a dollar and some change. Really cheap. And honestly, hammering it in was a breeze. Hardly even touched the block. I would not worry about stressing the block enough to crack it from replacing the freeze plug.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=116658&highlight=block+heater&page=2
there is the first link to my questions on the install of the block heater.
K
Knoxnate
Guest
I would make double sure you do not have a crack. I was confident my issue was a leaking plug up to the point Beowulf advised me to take a picture with a high resolution digital camera. After following his advice and zooming in the picture I discovered I had a hair line crack that could not be seen with the naked eye.
Nate
Nate
I understand your view but there is apparently something that is causing cracks (at least 2 reported I have read about .. Ting and now NewbieNate) in the same spot. Personally I'd be cautious around this area - DS - it is possible that the exhaust side of the block casting where you installed your frost plug is tough as hades...but there could be a casting defect on the intake side that pops up once in a while. Weird things can happen to the best designs ... eg the failing head gaskets in the pre '95 3.o L v6 , on the 1fze (.. hey is there a trend here??) anyway personally I would err on the side of caution around this area.
Photoman also had a cracked block in precisely the same area. Fortunately for him, it was discovered many years ago on his '97 while still under factory warranty. Robbie has posted in the past that he has personally seen "a couple" of cracked blocks in this area.
-B-
-B-
- Thread starter
- #15
well i just looked at the problem a little closer, the block is CRACKED in the exact same spot as the 2 others I have seen, i think im gonna throw up
Mine was too. fortunately it was still under warranty.
