cooling issue cont.

[Tarrazu Tico]

Ok,

I've been really getting to know my FJ.

Well I was looking at the engine (hypnotized really), thinking about what else could be causing my baby to overheat, or at least have the gauge convinced that is the case.

Most of the time it does well. Occasionally though I get a hunch that it is rising in temp., at fast or slow speeds, so I crank on the heat (it gets real hot) and don't give it a chance to go up.

What really gets me is that when I shut off the engine the gauge immediately rises up, up, and up. Almost to danger zone.

Well staring without aim has paid off I beleive. Take a look at the photos. The right hose connector has snapped. Is this my water temp sensor? Could it be causing this erratic behavior?

 

[WES1977]

My FJ40 also goes up after I turn the engine off. I know it normally goes up some but mine goes from the min of op range to just over op range. I am going to replace my seal on my thermostat today and hoping that helps. You need pressure on your system. I know pressurized water has a higher boiling point. That is what is happening in our engines. The water is boiling. I think my coolant mixture may not be good as I ran out of antifreeze also. I am also going to reburp my coolant and maybe try some of that water wetter.

 

[Tarrazu Tico]

Well..

I have a new thermostat with both seals. Flushed cooleant and burped system several times just to be extra certain. I just replaced the radiator cap and that has seemed to help some but am not sure.

When I ordered my radiator cap the one they sent me was way too big for my rad. I brought my cap in and it matched a 90's pickup. They radiator itself was put in just before I bought the truck and appears to match up in every possible way except the small cap. Does this seem out of the ordinary??

 

[beaufort-fj60]

I'd replace that rad hose, it's looking bloated (pic on left). The correct rad cap is very important, its a "closed" system and needs the proper cap. You could also have air in the system, it might need to be burped. The pic on right, don't worry about that it's a temp. based vac switch.

do a search for:"burp the system" here's one there are a bunch of threads on this https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=83622&highlight=burp+system

 

[Mace]

personaly, I would figure out what exactly is HOT..

Buy a temp gauge and figure out what you are actually running.. IT will pay off in the end..

2F's don't overheat unless something is wrong..

When does it get hot???

do you have a shroud?



When you turn the motor off the coolant stops circulating.. SO it has no way to cool off, and the temp rises, that is normal.. The stock gauges are fairly vauge in their reading.. so it might just be fine and you are worrying for nothing.. But if you are actualy getting hott... then you have some bigger problems..

 

[Cruzerman]

Throw in a bottle of Redline's water wetter (http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp). The stuff works. And while there may be something wrong with your cooling system, it can't hurt to add a bottle. In college, this stuff kept my marginal cooling system going until I could afford a new radiator. Now, I always add a bottle.

 

[FJ60_cruiser]

well same here!! i just rebuild my engine about a week ago to be exactly the last monday and during the week it ran great, there was only one day my 60 heat up and it was almost near the red line. the weird thing is that the engine was running but i was parked waiting for someone till i realize that the temp was going up like i said before, then on the road my dad said keep it at high Rpm's so i did it and the temp went down a little but not that much.

the other thing is that hapened two times was that when i turned of the egine the temp started to go up and up just like you said. so what could this be?
maybe the fan clutch?

cause my mechanic said that the fan wasn't working exactly the way it should.
please help i'm really worried about it cause i just rebuild my engine and i do't want something to happend to it.

 

[WES1977]

your fan clutch will only keep it cooler at slow speed or stoped but the fan won't help with the motor off.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

as far as I know it is normal for the coolant temperature to go up when the engine is shut down.
Once you shut it down the coolant does not circulate anymore, and therefore does not carry away heat from the block. once you run the engine it will again exchange heat at the radiator due to curculation-that;s why you see it going down once you start again.
the fan clutch will only engage the fan when the engine is hot and running, it does not work well at idle.
hth
jan

 

[Mace]

as far as I know it is normal for the coolant temperature to go up when the engine is shut down.
Once you shut it down the coolant does not circulate anymore, and therefore does not carry away heat from the block. once you run the engine it will again exchange heat at the radiator due to curculation-that;s why you see it going down once you start again.
the fan clutch will only engage the fan when the engine is hot and running, it does not work well at idle.
hth
jan

fan clutch works BEST at idle..

It is basically useless at speed..

 

[Tarrazu Tico]

Well as soon as I find it I'm going to use my infrared temp gauge and see what is getting too hot if anything.

With the 190 degree thermostat - what is a likely range for the temp?

It should get a little hotter normally because the therm. won't open untill that temp. right???




Hot about the air intake? The hood insulation droops down a bit and touches in a couple of spots. The intake tubing actually had a hole worn through because of this. I did wrap it up to plug it but maybe that isn't enough.

 

[Mace]

It should not really run much over 200* 210 max..

My turbocharged 2F runs at about 190* at all speeds. 2F's run cool..


That is unless you have bumped the compression considerably..

 

[pvidrummer]

My 60 over heats when I am stopped for more than 10 min. When the engine is too hot and I turn it off it will sort of sputter as if it were trying to stay turned on, freaks me out sometimes. My engine has everything stock. My 60 has had this problem since the day my uncle gave it to me, he says he could never figure out what was causing the problem.

 

[pvidrummer]

this is the status of my vacuum lines.

 

[FJ60_cruiser]

your fan clutch will only keep it cooler at slow speed or stoped but the fan won't help with the motor off.

+

you misunderstood, i know that fan clutch won't work when the engine is off, but i said that when i was waiting for my dad the engine was on and when i looked at the temp it went up and it was nearly the red line the minutes i wait for.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

fan clutch works BEST at idle..

It is basically useless at speed..

that's of course correct. I was not thinking straight.

 

[WES1977]

+

you misunderstood, i know that fan clutch won't work when the engine is off, but i said that when i was waiting for my dad the engine was on and when i looked at the temp it went up and it was nearly the red line the minutes i wait for.

sorry dude, yep misunderstood. If you were idling and it went up like that. Yes, I would agree that you either have a bad fan clutch or maybe bubbles. When my temp goes up above the 180 mark i'm assuming I can hear the fan kick on and notice the air sucking stronger and blowing harder. You should be able to notice with the hood up.

 

[beaufort-fj60]

this is the status of my vacuum lines.

if that a white bvsv? ........ the usa bvsv are pink and purple. Is there only one bvsv on that 2f or do you have two bvsv? I'm asking because of your location: Puerto Rico.

 

[FJ40_owner]

I do the following on all my vehicles.

Remove the thermostat and put it in a pot of water, bring it to a boil with a calibrated analog thermometer. Observe and verify at what temperature, if at all the stat fully opens.

I do the same with my mechanical gage as well.

In the case of the LC electric sender I remove the sender and immerse it in water being heated by my Coleman stove. This allows me to observe and calibrate the meaningless stock LC temp gage. That is to say I know where the needle is at 180, 190, 200 and so forth.

But I no longer run electric gages.

And I always calibrate all my stuff so I can beleive what its telling me.

Good Luck

JB

 

[stumpy]

'tico-

that hose off your thermostat housing in that first picture looks a little swollen. you might consider giving that cooling system a good flush and replacing some hoses... a cooling system full of goo wont do much cooling!

the electric gauges are useless. my electric gauge goes all over the place when my mechanical gauge stays fixed. go spend $30 and get one of those 3 gauge mini clusters that have MECHANICAL gauges and save yourself some heartache.

the compression is up on my 2F and my mechancial gauge shows that my temp stays at 195 (190 thermostat) running hard, idling off road, driving through death valley... when it is cold, my temp will fluctuate between 185 and 195, but rarely hits 200.

fan clutches are good. you should be able to check if the clutch engages or not by running your engine to operating temperature and then letting it idle for a bit. if it is a nice hot day, after your engine starts to get hot at idle, the fan clutch should engage. if you turn the engine off, the fan should stop immediately with the water pump. if it continues to spin after the engine stops, your cluch isnt engaging. of course if your engine isnt over heating, the fan clutch may not need to be engaged, so keep that in mind...

electric fans are BETTER! all that idle speed cooling with none of the highway HP draw!

give yourself a good tune up (replace all those vacuum hoses), get some mechanical gauges, and trust the MACE!