Cooling Fan inoperable - where to start (1 Viewer)

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Feb 15, 2022
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Location
Atlanta, GA
So I have a "dead" cooling fan and would like to get it working for the upcoming humid GA summer...I wanted to start with the inline fuse for this unit, but can someone confirm this is what the fuse looks like for the cooling fan? Its under dash, right of foot pedals and just next to the cooling fan box (85927 - 60040). If so, is this the best place to start to get it working? I quickly checked for continuity while in the white holder/case and was not seeing any...but also, how do you get this guy out? The metal fuse holder/clamps look like they are really locking this into place...do you need to bend the holder up? Assume this is switched power as well to this fuse? Before I start to 'pry' it out of the holder....

IMG_4513(1).JPG
 
Have you jumped your fan to see if it’s operable?
 
get power to the fan first and make sure that it's working as @imyahucklbrry suggests. As far as the fuse is concerned you have it. Just pop it out of the holder and slide both ends off - they're friction fits. From there you can try bypassing the thermo switch above the exhaust manifold and see if it comes to life keeping in mind that the fan will not come on until you turn the key off. From there you'll need to source a replacement fan controller module which pop-up from time to time on the bay. Match part numbers since there are variations by model year
 
Have you jumped your fan to see if it’s operable?
Not yet - that is next. IN terms of jumping - disconnect the green plug and jump directly to battery? Just making sure Im tracking as to 'how to jump' as I am new to this :)
 
Not yet - that is next. IN terms of jumping - disconnect the green plug and jump directly to battery? Just making sure Im tracking as to 'how to jump' as I am new to this :)
you have it - the white w/ black trace is ground in all thing Land Cruiser
 
Thats looks like a flasher or a relay, vs. fuse. Fuses are usually easily or possible to check/change.
 
Thats looks like a flasher or a relay, vs. fuse. Fuses are usually easily or possible to check/change.
This is clearly a fuse (in white/inline)...Just wanting to make sure it is THE cooling fan fuse.
 
get power to the fan first and make sure that it's working as @imyahucklbrry suggests. As far as the fuse is concerned you have it. Just pop it out of the holder and slide both ends off - they're friction fits. From there you can try bypassing the thermo switch above the exhaust manifold and see if it comes to life keeping in mind that the fan will not come on until you turn the key off. From there you'll need to source a replacement fan controller module which pop-up from time to time on the bay. Match part numbers since there are variations by model year
How would I go about bypassing the thermo switch? Thanks for your help.
 
DUH, I was looking at the wrong part of pic, it supersized and I had to scroll around , yup, dat a fuse.
 
Fan works via jumping to batt. Removed fuse and it is blown (checked with meter). The fuse ribbon looks odd to me (inside), but I assume any 5A 12v glass type fuse will work here?

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I assume any 5A 12v glass type fuse will work here?
Kind of yes but there are multiple length and diameter. Sometime you get a diameter not far and it "works" but the contact is not as good and you get gremlins.

Otherwise, you can order 99118-62905 from Toyota for an official Toyota fuse, it will even have the original red color coding.


99118-629** for the other fuse values BTW, with the original color (red/yellow/green/blue).
 
Kind of yes but there are multiple length and diameter. Sometime you get a diameter not far and it "works" but the contact is not as good and you get gremlins.

Otherwise, you can order 99118-62905 from Toyota for an official Toyota fuse, it will even have the original red color coding.


99118-629** for the other fuse values BTW, with the original color (red/yellow/green/blue).
You're kidding right? I mean aside from the potential sizing issues....a 12v 5A fuse will operate like a 12v 5A fuse...Just having a hard time believing that anything other than a Toyota will have insufficient contact points and cause gremlins. Please tell me if I am wrong here....
 
Me……. I’d plug a fuse in that fits and go from there - you may be lucky and not have to do anything else to get her running!
 
I frequently had various electrical small misfunctioning until I decided to replace all the fuses.
It's not that the other fuses are not working but removing all my old fuses I clearly saw that they all had slightly different sizes, sometime they were longer, sometime they had a smaller diameter, etc. They all clipped in the fuse box but you don't have an electrical contact as good if the diameter or length is not correct, at first it works and then in 20 years when you have oxydation on the contacts or the fuse is moving in the holder, and you get some electrical weirdness ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Off course you can find non-Toyota fuses that are the right size, but I don't know how to reference/name them. Best option would be to compare them to your old one.
I used to buy glass fuses pack in gas station, it was like 5 or 6 fuses in a blister and they were from 3 or 4 different sizes. Back then standardization was not really thing.

Official Toyota fuses are between 1-1.5$.
 
Me……. I’d plug a fuse in that fits and go from there - you may be lucky and not have to do anything else to get her running!
Just did that now....walmart FTW. Will test out tomorrow to 1) see if this fan comes on and 2) the fuse is stable for the draw. More to come.
 
Quick update…replaced fuse and she works like a champ. Timed the fan run at 19 minutes and 45 seconds. Thanks for all your help.
I’m NEVER that lucky! :meh:
 

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