Coolant sludge filter (1 Viewer)

[Rookie2]

Seems like there would be a fairly cheap and easy way to install an inline filter that could be periodically checked for sludge/casting material presense.

I've seem Rick's (IIRC) setup, which is great, but again.. just seems like there could be a simpler approach.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Rookie2

 

[cruiserdan]

Rich actually. I don't know how you would simplify that one.

 

[Rookie2]

I was thinking something more like this:

http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/Tefba Filter.html

The way the top radiator hose is on an 80, you might have to install it in the vertical portion of the hose. But something like this would be quick, relatively cheap, and you could check/clean as often as you like.

 

[cc93cruiser]

thats a nice little 289 '65-'66. Miss my '68 mustang everyday

 

[RavenTai]

That coarse screen will not catch much of the fine sludge, the coarser sand it would catch could have a possibility of clogging and restricting flow.

I would stick with the bypass filter.

One possibly easier way to install a coolant bypass filter is to use the IAC heater line, you still have to come up with a mount for the filter but the connections would be slightly simpler. Worst case on that one with a clog is the IAC does not get heated and ices up, unlikely in my climate.

Riches setup has no downside if it clogs, only filtrations stops.

 

[landtoy80]

Did we every find out what the sludge is?

On GM vehicles using Dexcool, the coolant breaks down over time into an acid and eats the gaskets.

Is this whats happening the 80's that are having sludge problems?

 

[Cattledog]

I have know idea what the crap is. I kept some of the used heater hoses from my 96 lx during my replacement hose PM last weekend. I did notice that the hose next to the heater bypass valve and the PHH were loaded with green material inside the hoses. And all of the brass pipes I removed that carry coolant had a well formed surface coating of grey/green material inside of the pipe. I also noticed that my leaking hoses were failing from the interface of the brass pipe to the hose, with subtancial pipping on the interface of the pipe to hose.

But, all of the hoses connected to aluminum parts looked great like upper and lower radiator hoses. No coatings and no corrosion noted on the aluminum parts either.

I wonder if trapped air in the system is part of the problem? Hence the larger build up of crap near the heater bypass valve and PHH I am tempted to send the grey/green material from the brass pipes for elemental analysis.

Any thoughts if the slugde tends to kill waterpumps in these engines? I don't hear about anyone replacing the water pumps often.

Thanks

 

[Rookie2]

That coarse screen will not catch much of the fine sludge, the coarser sand it would catch could have a possibility of clogging and restricting flow.

I would stick with the bypass filter.

One possibly easier way to install a coolant bypass filter is to use the IAC heater line, you still have to come up with a mount for the filter but the connections would be slightly simpler. Worst case on that one with a clog is the IAC does not get heated and ices up, unlikely in my climate.

Riches setup has no downside if it clogs, only filtrations stops.

Good points RT. I was concerned about the same things. I guess my thought process was to check fairly regularly early on, to see if there are any contaminates floating around, and take it from there. One idea might be to rig it so that it's partitioned in half, and the screen is only filtering one half of the coolant that runs through. That way if the screen clogs, you'll still have coolant flow. I don't know.. may be kind of dicey. I agree, Rich's setup is the full proof way, but a little more pricey, involved and you got to have the means of fabing up the mounting plate.

To date, I've done two flushes and have seen no evidence of sludge (knock on wood). So I may need to just leave well enough alone. It seems like the nature of this beast is that it can break loose at any time though.

Landtoy: IIRC, Rich had a post a while back that seperated out all the contiminates that were filtered out, and they were consistent with the materials used in the casting process. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.


Rookie2

Edit: Here's Rich's thread, showing the coolant bypass filter setup and the results:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=6845&page=1&pp=30&highlight=coolant+bypass+filter

 

[RavenTai]

With the evidence available I think that left over casting sand is the best answer we have gotten to date.


R2 that bodes well for you, if it is casting material and you have not seen it yet than you will never see it.


If you don’t have it than no need to filter it, unless it is there but not where you can see it

 

[Rich]

Interestingly enough in the radiator I only saw and recovered the fine clay like material. The sand only showed up in the filter and a very small amount in the coolant overlfow bottle. There is something about the clay that makes it settle out on top of the radiator core. The sand seems happy to circulate until filtered. Of course, from an overheating point of view, it is only the material that clogs the radiator core that is of concern. Getting rid of the sand should reduce abrasion of the pump and other parts exposed to coolant flow.

 

[Landpimp]

I run these on a few of my Cruisers
http://www.babymall.com.au/tefba/

 

[BOUNDER]

So...

I run these on a few of my Cruisers
http://www.babymall.com.au/tefba/

What are you finding in the screens- initially and after continued use?

 

[Landpimp]

very little actually, I have run the red juice in all my Cruisers and before installing the filters I flushed the daylights out of the system. I have found small rust flakes from time to time but thats about it.

also I do not have a 4.5ltr which is the sludge monster

What are you finding in the screens- initially and after continued use?