Coolant/Radiator Help!

[LexandRex]

I'm in the process of flushing the radiator/coolant on my 07 LC. I've drained the coolant from the radiator, the PS block and the DS block, replaced the T hoses and the thermostat. I filled the reservoir and radiator with distilled water and cranked up the truck. Revving it at around 2.5K RPM with the heater on full blast the truck heated up but kept on heating past normal operating temp. The heater never blew hot air which means that water is not circulating through the heater core.

Anyone got any ideas on what is going on? Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Air in coolant system.

I assume your just flushing with distilled water, and will mix 50/50 for final fill. Keep in mind you want de-mineralized water, not all distilled is.

 

[LexandRex]

How do I get the air out, I'm guessing these are self burping systems? Yeah, distilled water was just for the flush and toyota red is going back in.

 

[Julian Stead]

Not sure what engine you have got but I thought it was as simple as just running it without the radiator cap on until the thermostat opens to bleed it, when you say heating on full blast it is just full heat needed, front and rear heat controls set to hot, fans not important.

Set interior heaters to hot
Remove rad cap
Fill with water(coolant)
Start engine
Just let it idle until the thermostat opens topping up when necessary

 

[Julian Stead]

Sorry didn't finish the post

Refit rad cap
Fill expansion bottle to level mark
Check heaters are hot
Switch engine off
Recheck level when cold

Someone else may correct me on this, but it is usually all that is required to bleed it, make sure the vehicle isn't facing downhill, uphill would help

 

[LexandRex]

Thanks for the help, that got it to work then I was able to drain it again and refill with anti freeze. My T joints going to the heater core broke apart when I was disconnecting them...probably wouldn't have lasted much longer. Remember to check those out!

 

[Julian Stead]

Must check my T joints tomorrow, may just order some as I will be doing a coolant change shortly, thanks for the heads up.

Glad you sorted it, finding the T Joints now was probably a blessing.

 

[2001LC]

How do I get th air out, I'm guessing these are self burping systems? Yeah, distilled water was just for the flush and toyota red is going back in.

The 07 uses different stuff, pink Supper Long Life? Not a good idea to mix with red.

My 2001 use red, which I mix myself 50/50.

Check reservoir level each morning after ~8 to 12 hour cool down, fill to cold level mark. Check after really hot to see if close but not over hot level mark. Takes ~1 to 3 days usually to stabilize (all air out). It should never use any after this point, unless over heating or leak.

 

[LexandRex]

When you do the coolant change draining the PS block is very easy despite what some have said. You don't have to take anything off to reach it (beside the under plates) just have a short 10mm wrench.

 

[LexandRex]

The 07 uses different stuff, pink Supper Long Life? Not a good idea to mix with red.

My 2001 use red, which I mix myself 50/50.

Check reservoir level each morning after ~8 to 12 hour cool down, fill to cold level mark. Check after really hot to see if close but not over hot level mark. Takes ~1 to 3 days usually to stabilize (all air out). It should never use any after this point, unless over heating or leak.

Thanks, yeah I put the super long life coolant in. Got the nomenclature confused with the red stuff.

 

[2001LC]

^^^Cool, you had me concerned.

***
Set interior heaters to hot
***

I thought the same, but a was informed by Uber IIRC here in the mud, that hot or cold setting opens and closes air way door. Coolant runs through system constantly regardless of setting..

 

[Julian Stead]

Yes your probably right but I was unsure how the rear controlled heat, the way I described is just a way of bleeding a self burp cooling system that isn't model specific.