Coolant Leak....overheating

[thekitchensink]

Hello. This isn't what I imagined my first Mud post would be... (thinking more along the lines of "sitting pretty, running smooth"). I have a '93 with the 1FZ-FE. 160xxx miles, owned by me for about a month now.

I was on my way into work today and realized that the coolant temp gauge is nearing red. I started smelling coolant, and hearing a "pssssshhhhh". Yippie skippy. I pulled over, and steam started billowing out from under my hood. Typical over heating with a fluid leak.

I looked under the vehicle and saw the neon coolant streaming out. Let it cool down/de-pressurize, filled up the radiator (I always carry coolant/water), and let it cool down until the gauge was near "C". I pulled back onto the highway and about 100yds later the gauge started rising fast.

All that to say, does anyone know what these pictures show? I think I've traced the leak down to this point, but I have no idea what it is. (Pics are looking up into the engine bay from the ground, next to the drivers side tire.) EDIT: I think the leak is coming from those two metal hoses that are connected with the rubber hose (centered on last pic)

Any help would be appreciated! I've been parked with the hood up for two hours now trying to let it cool 100% down.

 

[IronCladLou]

I can't see exactly what you're referring to in the pictures, but I would suspect the PHH in that location...

 

[thekitchensink]

More pics (with light) I think the culprit is the split hose there:

What's the PHH?

 

[Desert Dino]

Pesky heater hose
I think the 2 pips you refer are of the back heater

But I am not sure it is coming from them

It looks like PHH

Slee - PHH (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)

 

[Tools R Us]

Those are the ATF cooler lines, not going to leak coolant! Look higher, likely PHH (a heater hose) or throttle body heat hoses.

 

[Kaninja]

Another vote for the PHH.

 

[baldilocks]

If we knew where you are located, someone here on Mud could either assist you personally or perhaps suggest a good shop that knows Landcruiser's.

 

[BILT4ME]

If we knew where you are located, someone here on Mud could either assist you personally or perhaps suggest a good shop that knows Landcruiser's.

So, you are really at an invalid location......

 

[thekitchensink]

So, you are really at an invalid location......

Haha! I'm in the Atlanta, GA area...Norcross currently. Anyone near me? Right now I'm at a pep-boys (not my first choice...but they were right down the road...and coolant was flowing).

Thanks for the info, Tools. I did look and that seems to be the culprit.

 

[thekitchensink]

Update: Pep-Boys won't touch it. The mechanic says he doesn't want to work on it because the dash cover is missing (just the A/C controls and such...I was working on the radio). Never again will I go to a Pep-Boys.

 

[Desert Dino]

Update: Pep-Boys won't touch it. The mechanic says he doesn't want to work on it because the dash cover is missing (just the A/C controls and such...I was working on the radio). Never again will I go to a Pep-Boys.

Don't understand whats the connection? this is inside?

 

[thekitchensink]

Don't understand whats the connection? this is inside?

Exactly. There is no connection at all.

I'm taking it to a real mechanic, one I normally go to (getting towed).
Thanks everyone! I'll let y'all know what I find out.

 

[baldilocks]

I suggest replaceihg the #1 water by-pass hose also at a minimum. It's a skinny hose running from the head not far from the PHH up to the throttle body. It's a booger to fat at and is subject to the same type of failure you are now experiencing.

 

[Alleycats]

Looks like you're due for some cooling system maintenance.

 

[Grench]

If the leak is on the left (US drivers) side, likely the PHH.

To find the PHH, chock the tires & get out the jackstands. Be safe about it.
Once the front left wheel is removed, remove the splash guard on the inside of the fender. Next, locate the starter motor - back toward the firewall just a bit. Stick a camera in there above and behind the starter motor and angle it down and back. You should see on the photo a 3" long section of 5/8" ID heater hose between the block and a hard line that goes up between the block and the firewall.

If the leak is on the right (US passenger) side, likely the rear heater lines.
The soft lines for this are comparatively easy to access, but there are more of them.
The top lines: Find the heater control valve attached the the firewall then follow the 5/8" heater line towards the passenger side. There are several soft lines there.
The lower lines: These go from the hard lines that come down out of the engine bay and enter the body above the transmission tunnel into the center console (for rear heater). They're not impossible to change. My solution, though, was to simply eliminate the rear heat and simplify the connections at the top end and remove the pipes. They were easy to nix at the time as I was torn down for a HG rebuild.

What you're referring to as a 'split hose' in your pictures is simply a vibration damper wrapped around a pair of hard lines to prevent the mounting point from rubbing through. That is not a likely leak point.

 

[thekitchensink]

Update. Just got the call from the shop with the price of the repair...$650. I was thinking more along the lines of $50....

I think I'm going to just take a day off and do this myself...

 

[MoJ]

What is the shop diagnosis?

 

[thekitchensink]

What is the shop diagnosis?

They say it's the heater hose. But they want to go in through the manifold, which they would have to remove to get to (his words). From what I've read I can access it from the left wheel well...(?)

 

[Red Merle]

They say it's the heater hose. But they want to go in through the manifold, which they would have to remove to get to (his words). From what I've read I can access it from the left wheel well...(?)

Do it yourself. That is crazy talk.

 

[Kaninja]

They say it's the heater hose. But they want to go in through the manifold, which they would have to remove to get to (his words). From what I've read I can access it from the left wheel well...(?)

$650 is excessive for $12 worth of hose and clamps. I know it is a PIA but I did mine in about 90 minutes through the wheel well.