Coolant flush-Need helps with additives (1 Viewer)

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LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
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In process of the coolant flush and change (PM kinda). So far I have the pull all the plugs, flush with hose pressure, drained and filled with RO water. I have been driving with RO water only the last 200 miles and really like the looks of the temperature gauge without anti-freeze. Now I’m thinking of draining and refilling with only 1 Gal of Toyota Red. The FSM says 2 Gals (I believe). In town we are lucky to get down to 40 so I don’t need 2 for freeze protection. But I want protection of the corrosive prevention and lubrication that anti-freeze will offer. So what if I added a bottle of Redlines WaterWetter to make up the difference. I can always use the extra cooling help from WaterWetter and the additional water. Would that give enough corrosion protection and lubrication?
 
Antifreeze also increases the temp required to boil the coolant if you're ever in a demanding situation (hot tow, etc). I think mine's at over 270 degree boil temp (vs 212 obviously), and reaching the boil temp is very hard on an engine, including if it's happening in tiny hot spots here and there such as the engine's top end. Expanding bubbles damage metal like cavitation does, and also decay gaskets. So, I personally would not recommend it as a long term engine cooling system strategy. I do not know if the WW product adds any helpful additives other than those to reduce surface tension and promote heat transfer (such as anti corrosion, water pump lube, seal care, etc).

DougM
 
IdahoDoug said:
I do not know if the WW product adds any helpful additives other than those to reduce surface tension and promote heat transfer (such as anti corrosion, water pump lube, seal care, etc).

DougM


Claims are it does all that....
http://www.redlineoil.com/

Doug it was your post on Redlines SI-1 fuel system cleaner that started me reading and researching it. :flipoff2:

I'm not that concerned about a boiling temp of 270 because I will never let it get that close to 270 or anywhere near. My concerns are when you have a SC you can build heat fast and I notice a difference running pure H2O. So with more H2O and WaterWetters claimed ablity to help with the heat transfer I will be better off. It seems to me with WaterWetters claims it should be equal to 1 Gal of Red in terms of additives. They say you can run only H2O with WW and get all the corrosion protection they you need but that is in race cars. Also stated is that the additives are active longer than anti-freeze and have a Ph of 8.6.
 

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