Not real clear on these. Is it a matter needing to use them once you're over a certain lift height, or does it vary by suspension maker/package? Mostly asking because sliders will happen before the lift, and I need to know whether to keep those front mounting points clear for brackets. Also--no need for brackets if caster correction plates are used, is that right? Thanks!
Control Arm Drop Bracket Q
- Thread starter jaymar
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I know that eimkieths is made to fix caster for around a 2” lift. Mana fre makes drop brackets for more lift options. The more you lift a car the more the axle with roll forward ( positive caster), like a 1” lift will need almost no caster correction, while a 6” lift will need a ton of caster correction. It seems like a lot of people don’t bother with correcting caster with under a 2” lift, after that I’d definitely want to or else your steering wheel will get twitchier the higher you go. BUT it is up to a lot of personal preference, I’m sure theirs someone with an inch of lift who doesn’t like how their 80 drives and I’m sure there’s someone who says that their 80 with 4”s of lift drives fine (I doubt it though
). And depending on the amount of lift you have you can with either do a drop bracket OR caster plates. I hope this helps!
). And depending on the amount of lift you have you can with either do a drop bracket OR caster plates. I hope this helps!- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks. Hmm. Don’t plan to go over 2-1/2 so I don’t need to change stock geometry—other than drop brackets/caster I guess. So, what happens if you do one or the other because you have a 2-1/2” lift, but you’re back at stock height when loaded? Are you then “off” the other way, or is there a pivot?I know that eimkieths is made to fix caster for around a 2” lift. Mana fre makes drop brackets for more lift options. The more you lift a car the more the axle with roll forward ( positive caster), like a 1” lift will need almost no caster correction, while a 6” lift will need a ton of caster correction. It seems like a lot of people don’t bother with correcting caster with under a 2” lift, after that I’d definitely want to or else your steering wheel will get twitchier the higher you go. BUT it is up to a lot of personal preference, I’m sure theirs someone with an inch of lift who doesn’t like how their 80 drives and I’m sure there’s someone who says that their 80 with 4”s of lift drives fine (I doubt it though
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you need some sort of caster correction when lifting period. the choices are offset bushings, plates to rotate the axle, or drop brackets. the plates are preferred these days but I did a 4” lift using man a fre brackets, a: because I got them cheap, and b: because they maintain parallel driveline and prevent vibrations which would necessitate a double cardan drive shaft. Plates do not. The drop brackets work great and the truck drives like stock. The downside is that they hang down and might get hung up on rocks. If you’re not lifting 4” or more plates are probably the way to go.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks, I haven't touched the OME stock-height suspension the Cruiser came with and (obviously) know zip about this aspect of things. As proof, one more Q: Do the caster correction plates mount in same place as the drop brackets, or is that spot left open?
As said above, the plates mount to the brackets on the axle where the control arms bolt to the axle. They simply offset the holes on the axle brackets. A quick google image search of caster correction plates will make it pretty clear how they work.
It’s all a balance until you get to 4” of lift. With stock driveshaft you can get correct unjoint angles only at 0 lift with correct caster. The more you lift and correct caster correctly, the more the ujoints are unmatched. Until you get to 4” of lift and can run a DC shaft.
Doesn’t matter how you correct the caster you compromise on ujoint angles. Correct the caster less as you lift and ujoint angles don’t get as bad. All a compromise. The lower the lift, the more likely you can properly correct caster and not have ujoint vibes.
to answer the ops question, you can use one or multiple ways of correcting caster to get in desired range. But for simplicity and cost just go with one of either bushings, plates, or brackets.
Doesn’t matter how you correct the caster you compromise on ujoint angles. Correct the caster less as you lift and ujoint angles don’t get as bad. All a compromise. The lower the lift, the more likely you can properly correct caster and not have ujoint vibes.
to answer the ops question, you can use one or multiple ways of correcting caster to get in desired range. But for simplicity and cost just go with one of either bushings, plates, or brackets.
You’d have to put a TON of weight on the 80 for it to sag a 2.5” lift back to stock. But if you somehow did, you would just have a ton of negative caster and your steering wheel would be super heavy. And I’m sure there’s a chance that your tie rod end could hit your radius arms. I get about 3.5 inches of lift out of my ome heavies and the previous owner did caster correction bushings AND dobinsons plates for a 5” lift. I used to have waaaay to much negative caster and the tie rod end would touch the radius arm when flexed out
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I did the OME 2.5 lift on my 97 with caster bushings and it works like a charm. The kit came with an alignment guide to set the new bushings and the whole thing took one afternoon. I did opt for the heavy duty springs which give me a "firm" ride while unloaded, but with the family, our camping gear and pulling our tent trailer, the cruiser sits about and inch lower than when empty.
