Gauge said:
Is it just me or isn't it ironic that a guy named "Gauge" doesn't have one?
Consolidated Operating Temperature Thread (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter cary
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Is it just me or isn't it ironic that a guy named "Gauge" doesn't have one?
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
cruiserdan said:Is it just me or isn't it ironic that a guy named "Gauge" doesn't have one?
Don't be silly Dan, all 80's have a gauge!
Tools R Us said:Don't be silly Dan, all 80's have a gauge!
That no one seems to trust......
cruiserdan said:Is it just me or isn't it ironic that a guy named "Gauge" doesn't have one?
Hopefully his real name isn't Peter.
1) 1997, no mods.
2) RT modified guage
3) New radiator cap, t-stat, new fan clutch (the blue one)
4) Prestone Green, mixed 50/50 with distilled, 18 month flush interval
5) Around town driving, the guage gets a needle width or two above middle in 90 degree weather, on cool days it stays in the middle. On the highway, about the same. Never use the A/C unless the
is in the car.
6) 3/4's on the guage, with the back loaded down with camping gear and bear coolers (guestimating 300 to 400 pounds) pulling a pretty steep grade at 3000 rpms for a few minutes.
7) Based on current performance, I think if an RT moded guage gets to the red, I would be very suspesious that the system was not to top condition.
2) RT modified guage
3) New radiator cap, t-stat, new fan clutch (the blue one)
4) Prestone Green, mixed 50/50 with distilled, 18 month flush interval
5) Around town driving, the guage gets a needle width or two above middle in 90 degree weather, on cool days it stays in the middle. On the highway, about the same. Never use the A/C unless the
is in the car. 6) 3/4's on the guage, with the back loaded down with camping gear and bear coolers (guestimating 300 to 400 pounds) pulling a pretty steep grade at 3000 rpms for a few minutes.
7) Based on current performance, I think if an RT moded guage gets to the red, I would be very suspesious that the system was not to top condition.
cruiserdan said:Is it just me or isn't it ironic that a guy named "Gauge" doesn't have one?
Good one Dan! You got me.
The wife did ask me to try and keep the Cruiser clean of gauges unlike the other vehicles I own and I thought by fixing the OEM gauge it would cure my desire for accuracy, but perhaps not.
Thanks for posting the chart on fuel consumption and engine wear at operating temperatures. Very good stuff. I would imagine that 195 would not be much different than 210 in terms of results. What oil viscosity was used for this test? I assume dino oil and not synthetic.
What are your thoughts on head gasket failure and temperature. Do you think an engine at 210 is more prone to failure than 190? I am thinking from a physics standpoint and the expansion of different metals.
I'm not quite sure what I think. I do think that the A/C cut-out and cut-in temperatures reveal more about where the engine is expected to operate than they do on the surface. I also think that the "numb" gauge is a clue.
If you think about it, an engine with a "normal" operating themperature range of say 180 to 215 degrees would nomally be equipped with a gauge (by the factory, I mean) that would indicate "normal" for any temperature within that range and would be "cold" or "hot" outside of that range.
It is clear to me that Toyota does not think that 217 degrees is a threat, otherwise they would not allow the A/C compressor to come back on line. It is also clear to me that they feel above 226 to be undesirable.
Since the stock thermostat begins to open at 180 and the A/C will come back in line at 217, I suggest that that temperature range could be considered "normal" for the 1FZ.
D-
If you think about it, an engine with a "normal" operating themperature range of say 180 to 215 degrees would nomally be equipped with a gauge (by the factory, I mean) that would indicate "normal" for any temperature within that range and would be "cold" or "hot" outside of that range.
It is clear to me that Toyota does not think that 217 degrees is a threat, otherwise they would not allow the A/C compressor to come back on line. It is also clear to me that they feel above 226 to be undesirable.
Since the stock thermostat begins to open at 180 and the A/C will come back in line at 217, I suggest that that temperature range could be considered "normal" for the 1FZ.
D-
fjfar80
GOLD Star
I know I am totally a newbie on this board, but the reason I just bought an 80 series was that I drove one in Iraq in 2003 and 2004. I can tell you we did not modify the truck at all (it was a U.S. petrol model) before we flew it into Kuwait. I drove the thing for over a year in 120+ temperatures hard and never had any issues. Ours even ended up with a few bullet holes and shrapnel wounds. Anyway, its' durability, reliabilty, and versatility led me to buy one. Here is a pic of us flying down Route Irish in early 2004, that would be me hanging out in the back watching our rear with my SOPMOD M4. You're going to ask what the heck all the crap is in the back, well a lot of Iraqi's have stuff all in their cars and it was our efforts to not be too noticeable, blend in a little more. Needless to say I was never concerned about its' running temperature and this was in a combat zone and our lives depended upon it to keep moving.
Last edited:
As it is now, I think my 80 would DIE in 120+ degree temperatures.
Anyway, welcome to the forum.
Question - In the picture, are those AC ducts going across the roof of the Land Cruiser? As far as I know that was not installed on any US models I have seen. Aftermarket?
Maybe someone else would know.
Anyway, welcome to the forum.
Question - In the picture, are those AC ducts going across the roof of the Land Cruiser? As far as I know that was not installed on any US models I have seen. Aftermarket?
Maybe someone else would know.
That is a Non-US rear A/C. That vehicle was most likely a Gibralter vehicle. It also has a swing-out tire carrier.
e9999 said:
Yes I do think my radiator is questionable. It's an aftermarket all metal one with visable deposits that I can see on the fins when I look down inside it when it's empty. It is on my list of things to replace. I think it was filled with hard water at one point by the PO. I've tried to scrape the deposits off thinking it was sludge but it won't budge.
semlin said:
And this is why I've been playing with the original gauge mod. I just can't stomach the needle being in the red where as my motor is hot but isn't going to blow up at that moment.
fjfar80
GOLD Star
It was a pretty cool addition that was installed in Q8 it ran air from the front (via a clear plastic pipe) to the rear and then up the side...just helped get some air in the back, nothing too drastic though. It was good to get some cool air down your neck though.
fjfar80
GOLD Star
The rear tire carrier was installed and fabricated by our local Iraqi "runner" Mo who was handy with a welder - before the war he ran a Mercedes shop in Baghdad. He ended up doing a lot of work on our vehicles to ensure they were squared away.
semlin
curmudgeon
any more photos. that is quite interesting.
when they added rear air i wonder did they add an a/c condensor fan?
when they added rear air i wonder did they add an a/c condensor fan?
fjfar80
GOLD Star
Also, the actual tire carrier was pretty slick (I am not sure where Mo got it) it was an enclosed plastic container that held the tire, we ended up using it for a little extra protection by filling it with sandbags.
fjfar80
GOLD Star
I honestly can't tell you what they did, it looks like they hacked into the regular front A/C duct and then just ran a clear hose to the back, the rear air section was bolted to the roof and the hose came up into the unit on the passenger side at the floor. You see a lot of adhoc stuff in Q8 and Iraq. Surprisingly there are alot of Cruisers over there. During the war I am sure the "population" increased 100 fold as the military, NGOs, OGAs and PSCs started using them as their primary vehicles.
Cube Dweller
Moderator
1) 1997, completely stock.
2) ISSPRO, mounted like CDan's.
3) Blue clutch w/in 1000 miles, stock radiator.
4) Prestone Green, 50/50.
5) Temperatures observed while driving around town: 180-185
sitting idling (i.e. drivethrough):180-185
on the highway at highway speeds: 185
the air temperature when you recorded these temperatures: avg 90*, A/C on.
6) Highest coolant temperature observed: ~200-205*, fully loaded, A/C on, pulling the grade into Santa Cruz
2) ISSPRO, mounted like CDan's.
3) Blue clutch w/in 1000 miles, stock radiator.
4) Prestone Green, 50/50.
5) Temperatures observed while driving around town: 180-185
sitting idling (i.e. drivethrough):180-185
on the highway at highway speeds: 185
the air temperature when you recorded these temperatures: avg 90*, A/C on.
6) Highest coolant temperature observed: ~200-205*, fully loaded, A/C on, pulling the grade into Santa Cruz
1) 1996 LX450 Stock engine, stock 3 degrees advance on the timing, I had been running slightly advanced before no change in temperature after going back to stock.
2) modified OEM gauge.
3) No cooling system upgrades, I have newish blue hub clutch and thermostat about 2 years old, everything else is stock
4) Toyota red coolant 50/50 with distilled water a few weeks ago, before that 50/50 Toyota red and distilled w/ water wetter.
5) hot days (usually upper 90’s) at idle (drive through, stop lights etc) with AC on the temp will climb every time, all other times the temp is near or at the middle, there are not many passes or steep grades here, just rolling hills so no idea what it would do in those conditions.
6) my highest observed temp was about 205F, about 2 needle widths below red, this was on a hot day (100F) in stop and go gridlock traffic at a series of lights with the AC on.
7) I do not have any hard data on what is the max safe operating temp, but I do have some opinions,
From operating the vehicle standpoint The 226/217 AC cutoff/return is a clue from Toyota engineering, If my needle touches red (~216) I will take action up to and including pulling over and shutting down if required to get the temp down.
But from a PM standpoint I have another idea, according to the FSM the thermostat should be fully opened at less than or equal to 203F, to me that means that anything higher than that the thermostat is wide open and no longer in control, further cooling must come from higher temperature coolant in the radiator witch translates into higher engine temperatures, IMO the temperature should at least remain in the 180 to 203 range that is controllable by the thermostat. Preferably lower as we know the cooling system will maintain a fairly constant temp in all but severe conditions.
So to me my cooling system needs work, I am not exactly sure witch steps to take next, I am watching the fan clutch thread with hope, I am working a temporary job but funds are still very tight. I know I will eventually replace my radiator with the OEM 93/94 style.
2) modified OEM gauge.
3) No cooling system upgrades, I have newish blue hub clutch and thermostat about 2 years old, everything else is stock
4) Toyota red coolant 50/50 with distilled water a few weeks ago, before that 50/50 Toyota red and distilled w/ water wetter.
5) hot days (usually upper 90’s) at idle (drive through, stop lights etc) with AC on the temp will climb every time, all other times the temp is near or at the middle, there are not many passes or steep grades here, just rolling hills so no idea what it would do in those conditions.
6) my highest observed temp was about 205F, about 2 needle widths below red, this was on a hot day (100F) in stop and go gridlock traffic at a series of lights with the AC on.
7) I do not have any hard data on what is the max safe operating temp, but I do have some opinions,
From operating the vehicle standpoint The 226/217 AC cutoff/return is a clue from Toyota engineering, If my needle touches red (~216) I will take action up to and including pulling over and shutting down if required to get the temp down.
But from a PM standpoint I have another idea, according to the FSM the thermostat should be fully opened at less than or equal to 203F, to me that means that anything higher than that the thermostat is wide open and no longer in control, further cooling must come from higher temperature coolant in the radiator witch translates into higher engine temperatures, IMO the temperature should at least remain in the 180 to 203 range that is controllable by the thermostat. Preferably lower as we know the cooling system will maintain a fairly constant temp in all but severe conditions.
So to me my cooling system needs work, I am not exactly sure witch steps to take next, I am watching the fan clutch thread with hope, I am working a temporary job but funds are still very tight. I know I will eventually replace my radiator with the OEM 93/94 style.
did a lot of temperature monitoring and fooling around with the A/C yesterday on the trail and freeway.
One observation: if the engine is getting hot, go down in gears. It's very effective, especially on the ATF side I think.
I was going slow on a dirt road in 100F weather, loaded. When going slowly up some steep slope, if I were in D, at times I would be up to 220F for coolant and up to 210F for ATF. But when I switched to 4Lo, the temps would drop to 205 / 180F. Presumably due to increased circulation plus higher fan speeds.
Obvious, but easy to forget, and wouldn't see that at all with the OEM gauge.
Basing myself on the a/c shut off, I would not be afraid at all to go up to 226 without stopping etc. For sure they put some safety factor in that 226F... And RT, it's perfectly fine for the Tstat to be fully open, that's taken into account in sizing the rad.
One observation: if the engine is getting hot, go down in gears. It's very effective, especially on the ATF side I think.
I was going slow on a dirt road in 100F weather, loaded. When going slowly up some steep slope, if I were in D, at times I would be up to 220F for coolant and up to 210F for ATF. But when I switched to 4Lo, the temps would drop to 205 / 180F. Presumably due to increased circulation plus higher fan speeds.
Obvious, but easy to forget, and wouldn't see that at all with the OEM gauge.
Basing myself on the a/c shut off, I would not be afraid at all to go up to 226 without stopping etc. For sure they put some safety factor in that 226F... And RT, it's perfectly fine for the Tstat to be fully open, that's taken into account in sizing the rad.
