Confused solar charge controller: dang pesky voltage drops... (1 Viewer)

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e9999

Gotta get outta here...
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I have one of my controllers outside the house in a weatherproof box. Needed to charge some 12V batteries inside, so I ran one of my regular panel extension cords (10AWG - 25') from the controller to the battery (the panel is next to the controller). Was 5 ft short so grabbed a short one off the rack and let it rip. A bit later I see that the amps are kinda low but the batteries are not likely close to fully-charged. Turns out the controller was in float mode. That was odd. Checked the voltage drop between the controller and the battery: over 0.5V. Turns out the short extension cord that I used was only 18 AWG, I didn't check earlier cuz I was in a hurry. OK, not good. Replaced it with a 10 AWG but there is still 0.3V drop with about 3.5A.

Short story: the poor controller was a bit confused, I think. It saw 14.4V and went from bulk to absorption even though the battery was only at something like 13.8V, nowhere close to 14.4 . So basically, what happens is that the voltage drop leads to it switching to absorption mode too early. Now, in principle that should not necessarily affect the final charge (except see below), but it will at least make it longer because it switched to absorption too early and so shortchanged the battery in amps. So if you're in a hurry to charge, that's not the best. But it should still charge at least some at that point. But...

Now, why it went to float with the battery not fully charged, I think (need to check the manual) that was because the duration set for the absorption phase in the menu (1hr) was exceeded. Not surprising since it went to absorption too early and the battery was still not fully charged. But going to float in turn would not give me the full charge for a while if at all, then. So not good, that is a more serious problem than just a somewhat longer charging time, both in the short term but also, if it is true indeed that a battery benefit from full-charging at 14.4, and in reality it never gets there because of the issue above, well, that is not good in the long term either. Basically, all of this would defeat having a good charging scheme. All cuz of a pesky voltage drop.
(Interestingly, I'm still getting 1.5A in Float mode (13.6V) rather than the expected 100mA or so, so that in turn may help a bit.)

(Predictable) Conclusions: don't use skinny wires and put the controller close to whatever battery you are charging if in a hurry to charge or if you want a truly fully-charged battery and want to keep it healthy. (Or increase the absorption phase duration.) Of course, I knew that, but still messed up cuz I warnt thinkin' .
 
The charger only knows the voltage at its terminals when determining how charged the battery is. A healthy amount of current flow combined with small conductor can give a significant voltage difference between the charger's terminals and the battery terminals. So the state of the battery is not what the charger thinks it is and it makes wrong decisions and changes states prematurely. Very important to locate the charger as close to the battery as possible to minimize the voltage drop (I think mine is less than 0.5%).

You didn't mention chemistry, or I missed it. At least for LFP batteries, too long at absorption phase can lead to over charging, even if the voltage is below 3.65V/cell. That is why some/most chargers allow you to limit the absorption time. Probably also true for lead acid batteries. Don't need/use float for LFP, only bulk (CC) and absorption (CV).
 
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This is FLA and AGM. I don't recall changing the absorption time, so the 1hr is likely a default setting. I don't know if a very long absorption phase would hurt anything but if the standard charging scheme is to switch to Float when the absorption current is down to some set or given low value, there must be a good reason for that. If I have time, I'll try to see at what point it changes charging phases and figure out if it is worth futzing with the duration of absorption.

Of course, the best way to deal with this would be to move the controller, but I can't quite do that just now. I may also get bigger leads. 10AWG seems pretty big for small panels, but it still gave me around 0.3V drop, more than I would have guessed for only like 40W. I was expecting more like 0.1V.
 

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