Complete Third Member

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The physical third member, is the same between semi and full float. Semi-float gets a pillow block on the cross pin to locate the axle shafts and hold the c-clips in their pockets. Full float shafts are located by the flange getting bolted to the hub, so the pillow block is deleted. Side gears are the same between each variant.
Thanks for chiming in, good info for the OP. The "pillow block" is not mentioned by name in the FSM, that I could see. So I'm assuming that is what is refered to as pinion shaft, spacer, gear, and washer, as much as I hate to assume anything working on a rig.
 
Thanks for chiming in, good info for the OP. The "pillow block" is not mentioned by name in the FSM, that I could see. So I'm assuming that is what is refered to as pinion shaft, spacer, gear, and washer, as much as I hate to assume anything working on a rig.
Yes I am aware of the pillow block. But still very good info on the differences. Thanks
 
You can still pull the thirds your self and have a shop set them up, in fact the shop that I use prefers that as you car is not taking up space in his shop.
A good busy shop will have and sale you the gears that you need saving you money as they make the mark up on the parts. most shops don't want you to bring in your own parts. You will save money on shipping as well.
Last year when I broke my ring and pinyon, I pulled the third and had the R&P replaced for $650 parts and labor I did not need a master rebuild kit because I did not have very many miles since the re-gear and it let go in my drive way.
I think you would be wise to find a reputable shop near you and just bring them your thirds ;)
The only reason you would buy the R&P your self is if you are going to install them your self. Remember a shop is buying in bulk and getting a discount that you can't get.
It's also eraser for a shop to warranty parts that He sales you.
One last thing if there is a issue you don't want to have to ship them back.
By the quotes that I received the price is quite pricey.. and a hassle having to ship back my cores and what not.

I talked to one local shop they quoted me 400 per axle + 75 for pinion spacer install per axle bringing 950$ for labor thats me pulling the thirds and bringing them to the shop…. plus another 1000$ or so for the gear package to include master install kits….

Does that sound reasonable?

Master kits are a must since I know they have never been serviced and are 30 years old. So would be dumb not to do this.

Anyone know any reputable shops around the Austin Metro that I could reach out to?
 
I'm bumping up to 35s, so I'm also considering regearing with complete third members. However, I'd also like to install lockers while I'm at it.
Any thoughts?
 
I'm bumping up to 35s, so I'm also considering regearing with complete third members. However, I'd also like to install lockers while I'm at it.
Any thoughts?
Yes of course if it is in the budget. No reason to pull it apart twice right.
 
By the quotes that I received the price is quite pricey.. and a hassle having to ship back my cores and what not.

I talked to one local shop they quoted me 400 per axle + 75 for pinion spacer install per axle bringing 950$ for labor thats me pulling the thirds and bringing them to the shop…. plus another 1000$ or so for the gear package to include master install kits….

Does that sound reasonable?

Master kits are a must since I know they have never been serviced and are 30 years old. So would be dumb not to do this.

Anyone know any reputable shops around the Austin Metro that I could reach out to?
If you can find someone who'll set up your differentials for $400, you should buy 30 of them and send them all to him. I wouldn't do it for that.

FWIW, there's no such thing as a Toyota master kit for 80 series differentials. You can buy matched ring and pinion sets, but all the service parts are separate items. There is no reason to believe that just because your truck is 30 years old, you need new differentials.

And for that matter, servicing a Land Cruiser differential is changing the oil, not replacing all the internal parts. This isn't a Jeep.
 
If you can find someone who'll set up your differentials for $400, you should buy 30 of them and send them all to him. I wouldn't do it for that.

FWIW, there's no such thing as a Toyota master kit for 80 series differentials. You can buy matched ring and pinion sets, but all the service parts are separate items. There is no reason to believe that just because your truck is 30 years old, you need new differentials.

And for that matter, servicing a Land Cruiser differential is changing the oil, not replacing all the internal parts. This isn't a Jeep.
Well I guess I should but 29 more because I got both axles done for 700$ pulling the thirds was not hard at all..
Master install kit = all bearings, seals, shims etc to install the new ring and pinion. So yes they do make one of those kits for 80 series.
Noone said anything about needing new differentials.

4.88 and 35’s are a pretty good combo in my opinion.

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If you can find someone who'll set up your differentials for $400, you should buy 30 of them and send them all to him. I wouldn't do it for that.

FWIW, there's no such thing as a Toyota master kit for 80 series differentials. You can buy matched ring and pinion sets, but all the service parts are separate items. There is no reason to believe that just because your truck is 30 years old, you need new differentials.

And for that matter, servicing a Land Cruiser differential is changing the oil, not replacing all the internal parts. This isn't a Jeep.
You’re usually pretty well read. So how you missed the boat this time 🤷‍♂️
 
Definitely a good time to add lockers. I'll also mention it's a good time to install arp hub studs.
It’s a slippery slope, one could do RCVS, ARP knuckle studs/ bolts and a full knuckle rebuild while you in there.

And let not forget 37s are the sweet spot for an 80😉
 
Well I guess I should but 29 more because I got both axles done for 700$ pulling the thirds was not hard at all..
Master install kit = all bearings, seals, shims etc to install the new ring and pinion. So yes they do make one of those kits for 80 series.
Noone said anything about needing new differentials.

4.88 and 35’s are a pretty good combo in my opinion.

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If it was a Toyota parts kit, it'd have a Toyota part number.

That's not a Toyota parts kit; that's an aftemarket parts kit sold for Toyotas. There is a difference.
 
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It’s a slippery slope, one could do RCVS, ARP knuckle studs/ bolts and a full knuckle rebuild while you in there.

And let not forget 37s are the sweet spot for an 80😉
Yup, just want to tackle it all in the right order. ARP hardware is likely, as well as RCVs if I can manage it.

Any resources that have complete third member with lockers pre-installed?
 
Yup, just want to tackle it all in the right order. ARP hardware is likely, as well as RCVs if I can manage it.

Any resources that have complete third member with lockers pre-installed?
I would reach out to @cruiseroutfit
 
I would reach out to @cruiseroutfit

We'd love to help @ Cruiser Outfitters. Drop us an email, info@cruiseroutfitters.com

We stock all the gears, install kits, lockers, solid spacers, etc and builds diffs daily. You can either send us your diffs to be built or we'll build using our cores and you send us back your original diffs post install.

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If it was a Toyota parts kit, it'd have a Toyota part number.

That's not a Toyota parts kit; that's an aftemarket parts kit sold for Toyotas. There is a difference.

If it was a Toyota parts kit, it'd have a Toyota part number.

That's not a Toyota parts kit; that's an aftemarket parts kit sold for Toyotas. There is a difference
Nowhere did I say that the master kit was a “Toyota Master Kit”
I agree there is a difference between aftermarket and OEM parts.
Either way were both correct.
Not worth getting worked up over..
Thanks for your input regardless.
 
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