Yes, but it does take a bit of tech skill to configure everything.
Complete Infotainment upgrade - 2005 LX 470
- Thread starter SeasportNZ
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- #22
Coming up next
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- #23
Hopefully, I'll describe the process well enough to make it easier for you. I solved most of the technical problems.
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- #24
Rear Camera
The new rear camera is a major step up from the 20+ year old factory camera. Video technology has come a long way since then. The Teyes screen is much bigger than the original screen, and is 2K high definition (2000×1200 pixels). The new rear camera is Full HD (1920x1080 pixels).
I actually tried a couple of cameras before I settled on the final one.
So I went looking for a better camera.
I was looking for a 1080p camera with excellent low light performance. That way you get a good colour picture, even at night. The Gold standard in low-light camera sensors are the Sony Starvis sensors (e.g. the IMX307). A few Chinese manufacturers ( GalaxyCore, SmartSens & OmniVision) have made alternatives. These are generally cheaper, but with reduced performance.
Here's a comparison of two popular camera sensors:
So I (well Gemini) looked for a good-quality rear camera using the Sony sensor. I ended up buying the "GreenYi AHD 1920*1080P Night Vision Vehicle Reversing Rear View Camera, 170 ° Golden Fisheye Lens, Full HD Cameras IMX307 G818" (gasp) on AliExpress. Gemini told me that GreenYi cameras are well rated by Landcruiser users.
The camera looks like this:
I managed to reuse the factory camera mount, and the new camera looks essentially like the factory original. I did have to grind off the hump on the original aluminium-alloy camera mount plate, to produce a flat plate mount suitable for the new camera. So the camera has the original footprint. Hint - don't try to reuse the old plastic screw mounts. You won't get them out, and you'll mangle the thin metal around the number plate lights (speaking from experience!) Drill the plastic screw mounts out and buy new ones. They're only a few cents each.
This is what the new camera looks like mounted:
Here's the rear camera image:
The camera has a 170 degree fisheye lens. So it gives a really wide field-of-view. I do miss the reverse guide lines on the screen though, compared to more modern vehicles. There is an option to add these by cutting a wire loop near the camera (or maybe the other way around). But these lines are static, i.e. they don’t change depending on the steering wheel position. So, I'm not sure whether the static lines are worth it, or would be annoying. Will have to try it. This camera also includes a 24V-12V voltage stepdown voltage regulator (if you happen to power it from 24V), which means the camera unit runs cooler. The original camera used a 6V power supply. So you can't use the factory camera power supply to power the new camera.
There is also an option to change the video format of the camera between AHD (Analog high definition) and CVBS (composite video baseband standard). Best to use the AHD with the Teyes as it’s a more modern standard.
As mentioned, I do run the camera continuously, rather than just in reverse. This is useful as you can show the rear camera image when you are driving - to keep an eye on a trailer or the cop car behind you
I had a problem finding how to display a constant rear image on the Teyes screen initially. I found how to do it eventually. The app to use is Cam REC, this has a red "record" logo. When I first tried this, I got a strange message about having to pay for it, and instructions to contact my local sales agent to activate it. Maybe Teyes were planning to charge extra for this feature. But, after hitting a few buttons randomly, it started working, and has done ever since.
The rear view camera also operates when the vehicle is in reverse, and the audio sound level is reduced.
Here's a picture taken at night when the car is in reverse:
I'm not completely happy with the camera positioning yet. There's too much of the hatch lid showing. I'll have another go at this when I get a chance. I did make up an ABS plastic spacer to offset the camera a bit from the tailgate, but haven't fitted it yet, or even verified if it makes any difference. There is also a rubber/plastic wedge which comes with the camera which can angle the camera down a bit.
Overall, I am very happy with this camera. Quality and performance are great, and, although more expensive than the Chinese sensor cameras, it's not too expensive. Fit is as close to original as you can reasonably get.
I'll add a follow on post to this one to describe how I installed/wired the camera with a few tips to hopefully save you some time.
The new rear camera is a major step up from the 20+ year old factory camera. Video technology has come a long way since then. The Teyes screen is much bigger than the original screen, and is 2K high definition (2000×1200 pixels). The new rear camera is Full HD (1920x1080 pixels).
I actually tried a couple of cameras before I settled on the final one.
- The Teyes comes with a free Teyes camera - it works, but it is only 720p. So I didn't progress with this one. Also, the camera mount wasn't what I wanted (it sticks out a long way)
- Someone here said they used the Aycetry rear camera and it is good. So I got one but found the quality poor. E.g when I cut through the camera cable (to join it), it wasn't even a shielded cable. The Aycetry camera is in a plastic housing, which slots into the space left behind when you remove one of the number plate lights. There are a few cameras like this around. They have a light in them to make up for the lost no. plate light. They are available on Amazon or AliExpress.
So I went looking for a better camera.
I was looking for a 1080p camera with excellent low light performance. That way you get a good colour picture, even at night. The Gold standard in low-light camera sensors are the Sony Starvis sensors (e.g. the IMX307). A few Chinese manufacturers ( GalaxyCore, SmartSens & OmniVision) have made alternatives. These are generally cheaper, but with reduced performance.
Here's a comparison of two popular camera sensors:
| Feature | Sony STARVIS (IMX327/307) | Chinese Equivalents (GC2053) |
| Low-Light Mode | True Color Night Vision. Can see with just tail-lights. | IR-Dependent. Usually needs IR LEDs or high ambient light. |
| Dynamic Range | High (Up to 120dB). Handles headlight glare well. | Moderate (~80dB). Headlights often "blow out" the image. |
| Signal-to-Noise | Very clean; minimal "crawling" pixels in shadows. | High noise in dark areas (digital "snow"). |
| Cost | $40 – $80 (for the camera module) | $15 – $35 (for the camera module) |
| Durability | High thermal stability (important for exterior mounting). | Variable; cheaper sensors can "purple" over time in sun. |
So I (well Gemini) looked for a good-quality rear camera using the Sony sensor. I ended up buying the "GreenYi AHD 1920*1080P Night Vision Vehicle Reversing Rear View Camera, 170 ° Golden Fisheye Lens, Full HD Cameras IMX307 G818" (gasp) on AliExpress. Gemini told me that GreenYi cameras are well rated by Landcruiser users.
The camera looks like this:
I managed to reuse the factory camera mount, and the new camera looks essentially like the factory original. I did have to grind off the hump on the original aluminium-alloy camera mount plate, to produce a flat plate mount suitable for the new camera. So the camera has the original footprint. Hint - don't try to reuse the old plastic screw mounts. You won't get them out, and you'll mangle the thin metal around the number plate lights (speaking from experience!) Drill the plastic screw mounts out and buy new ones. They're only a few cents each.
This is what the new camera looks like mounted:
Here's the rear camera image:
The camera has a 170 degree fisheye lens. So it gives a really wide field-of-view. I do miss the reverse guide lines on the screen though, compared to more modern vehicles. There is an option to add these by cutting a wire loop near the camera (or maybe the other way around). But these lines are static, i.e. they don’t change depending on the steering wheel position. So, I'm not sure whether the static lines are worth it, or would be annoying. Will have to try it. This camera also includes a 24V-12V voltage stepdown voltage regulator (if you happen to power it from 24V), which means the camera unit runs cooler. The original camera used a 6V power supply. So you can't use the factory camera power supply to power the new camera.
There is also an option to change the video format of the camera between AHD (Analog high definition) and CVBS (composite video baseband standard). Best to use the AHD with the Teyes as it’s a more modern standard.
As mentioned, I do run the camera continuously, rather than just in reverse. This is useful as you can show the rear camera image when you are driving - to keep an eye on a trailer or the cop car behind you
I had a problem finding how to display a constant rear image on the Teyes screen initially. I found how to do it eventually. The app to use is Cam REC, this has a red "record" logo. When I first tried this, I got a strange message about having to pay for it, and instructions to contact my local sales agent to activate it. Maybe Teyes were planning to charge extra for this feature. But, after hitting a few buttons randomly, it started working, and has done ever since.
The rear view camera also operates when the vehicle is in reverse, and the audio sound level is reduced.
Here's a picture taken at night when the car is in reverse:
I'm not completely happy with the camera positioning yet. There's too much of the hatch lid showing. I'll have another go at this when I get a chance. I did make up an ABS plastic spacer to offset the camera a bit from the tailgate, but haven't fitted it yet, or even verified if it makes any difference. There is also a rubber/plastic wedge which comes with the camera which can angle the camera down a bit.
Overall, I am very happy with this camera. Quality and performance are great, and, although more expensive than the Chinese sensor cameras, it's not too expensive. Fit is as close to original as you can reasonably get.
I'll add a follow on post to this one to describe how I installed/wired the camera with a few tips to hopefully save you some time.
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- Thread starter
- #25
Just a quick update for anyone following this thread. I have changed the operating system running on my Teyes CC3 2K.
The motherboard for the Teyes CC3 2K is made by a Chinese company called FYT, and this particular model is called the FYT 7862S and is based on the Unisoc UIS7862S chip. The alternative software/operating system is called DuDuOS. A head unit manufacturer called Mekede use DuDuOS as the operating system in their heat units.
There is an international beta testing program underway for DuDuOS. And if you have sufficient technical understanding of these sorts of devices, software etc you may be able to get access to DuDuOS (free). This beta testing program is headquartered in China and a lot of the development seems to be done by Russians. DuDuOS is really good, and I find it a lot more intuitive and easier to use than the Teyes software. And the guys developing the software are really helpful. Yes, in case you are wondering, I created a new Google account specifically for my head unit.
When I get some time, I'll post a video of DuDuOS in operation on the Teyes CC3 2K
The motherboard for the Teyes CC3 2K is made by a Chinese company called FYT, and this particular model is called the FYT 7862S and is based on the Unisoc UIS7862S chip. The alternative software/operating system is called DuDuOS. A head unit manufacturer called Mekede use DuDuOS as the operating system in their heat units.
There is an international beta testing program underway for DuDuOS. And if you have sufficient technical understanding of these sorts of devices, software etc you may be able to get access to DuDuOS (free). This beta testing program is headquartered in China and a lot of the development seems to be done by Russians. DuDuOS is really good, and I find it a lot more intuitive and easier to use than the Teyes software. And the guys developing the software are really helpful. Yes, in case you are wondering, I created a new Google account specifically for my head unit.
When I get some time, I'll post a video of DuDuOS in operation on the Teyes CC3 2K
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keep up posted on how the unit holds up over time.
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- #27
@Coin Did you get your SW controls sorted?
No. I have been very busy with work and a new business. It's on the "to do" list, just not anywhere near the top right now.
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- #29
Yeah. I can relate to that. They are analog buttons. The Canbus decoder turns them into digital. But there are two wires on the Teyes unit which you can use to map them using their app.
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- #30
I've taken a short video to show you DuDuOS in action. DuDuOS runs on the Teyes CC3-2K hardware, as mentioned previously. Unlike the Teyes software, it is closer to the Android experience that many of us are familiar with on our phones or tablets. You can download apps from the Play Store, you have various icons on the screen, a home button and a back button, etc. And it runs Android Auto very well.
There are basically two ways you can use the Head unit. You can either use it in what I call native mode, where you run the apps directly on the head unit. Everything looks great on the high-resolution screen. For example Google Maps looks really good. Note that in this mode you are using data from the SIM card in the Head unit (or WiFi if available) rather than from your phone. The other way is Android Auto mode, in which case you get the full Android Auto experience with phone support, text messages, Spotify, Google Maps, WhatsApp etc, all on the one screen. And you get Gemini, which you can talk to make calls send messages, control Google Maps and all the other things that you want to use Gemini for. It works well. But of course everything is running on your phone. There is good integration between the phone and the screen but I've noticed, for instance, that the sound quality is noticeably better when I'm running it in native mode, because the sound is not using Bluetooth from your phone to the Head unit.
I haven't really tried getting Gemini running yet in native mode. Although I think it will be possible, the only complication is that when I say "Hey Google", both my phone and the head unit will wake up
.
I haven't talked much about my sound system yet, but suffice to say it sounds amazing with new speakers, a new amplifier, a new subwoofer and sound-deadening in all the doors. I just drive the wagon now to listen to the sound system
.
It's not super complicated to load DuDuOS onto this device, replacing the Teyes software, but you need to be confident enough to flash new firmware onto your head unit, download files onto USB drives, etc. So it does require a reasonable amount of technical expertise. Note that once you load the DuDuOS software onto your head unit, the updates to the software are done over the air, so you don't need to use a USB drive.
Here's the video:
There are basically two ways you can use the Head unit. You can either use it in what I call native mode, where you run the apps directly on the head unit. Everything looks great on the high-resolution screen. For example Google Maps looks really good. Note that in this mode you are using data from the SIM card in the Head unit (or WiFi if available) rather than from your phone. The other way is Android Auto mode, in which case you get the full Android Auto experience with phone support, text messages, Spotify, Google Maps, WhatsApp etc, all on the one screen. And you get Gemini, which you can talk to make calls send messages, control Google Maps and all the other things that you want to use Gemini for. It works well. But of course everything is running on your phone. There is good integration between the phone and the screen but I've noticed, for instance, that the sound quality is noticeably better when I'm running it in native mode, because the sound is not using Bluetooth from your phone to the Head unit.
I haven't really tried getting Gemini running yet in native mode. Although I think it will be possible, the only complication is that when I say "Hey Google", both my phone and the head unit will wake up
.I haven't talked much about my sound system yet, but suffice to say it sounds amazing with new speakers, a new amplifier, a new subwoofer and sound-deadening in all the doors. I just drive the wagon now to listen to the sound system
.It's not super complicated to load DuDuOS onto this device, replacing the Teyes software, but you need to be confident enough to flash new firmware onto your head unit, download files onto USB drives, etc. So it does require a reasonable amount of technical expertise. Note that once you load the DuDuOS software onto your head unit, the updates to the software are done over the air, so you don't need to use a USB drive.
Here's the video:
Tell me more. I've tried the Teyes mapping app with no luck. Which are the two wires and how can I can the buttons?
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- #33
Oh. I'll fix that now.
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- #35
So far I'm loving it. There is the odd quirk but by and large it works well. And the good thing is there's a really active community of users/developers who you can ask if you have problems. As long as you're happy to converse in Russian The developers are busy bringing out new software and features. They've just released a whole lot of extra CANbus functions.. But so far nothing for the Series 100, although I've lodged it for consideration.
They have their own community pages and a lot of the communication is via Telegram. There is also a thread on the XDA Developers Forum.
forum.dudu-auto.com
The developers are busy bringing out new software and features. They've just released a whole lot of extra CANbus functions.. But so far nothing for the Series 100, although I've lodged it for consideration.They have their own community pages and a lot of the communication is via Telegram. There is also a thread on the XDA Developers Forum.
DUDUAUTO
A global community for Android automotive enthusiasts. Discuss, learn, and innovate with DUDU OS, launchers, and localization.
forum.dudu-auto.com
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- Thread starter
- #36
Here is a link to a document which describes how the steering wheel buttons work on our 470s. And how they interface to the original head unit and the Teyes system.
2005 Lexus LX470 Steering Wheel Controls
2005 Lexus LX470 Steering Wheel Controls Technical Reference & Aftermarket Integration Guide 1. System Architecture Overview The steering wheel controls (SWC) on the 2005 Lexus LX470 (facelift model) are based on a classic analog resistive ladder network (voltage divider configuration). The butt...
So basically there are 3 wires that come from the steering wheel which carry the button press information. These wires originally went to the factory head unit, which changed them from analog voltages to digital signals to interface with the infotainment system.
It looks like on the Teyes unit, this function is now done by the CANbus box that comes with the Teyes system. But also note that in the main power port on the Teyes unit, pins G6 and G7 are steering wheel learning inputs. These are not used in our version of the Teyes system. The CANbus box does it instead. It should be possible to take two wires from the CANbus box connector and connect them to these two pins and then use the Teyes app to learn the switches. But this would take a lot of trial and error. I think the reality is that your CANbus box should be decoding the steering wheel wires (as mine is). But I think you've got an open circuit in one of those wires, because you mentioned you've taken the steering wheel off. So the first thing I would do is check the continuity of those 3 wires and and find out where the break is.
You can see the three wires in the Wiring manual on page 537. The three wires are shown as White/Red. Black/Red and Brown in this manual