Common oil leak locations?
- Thread starter wpsfan
- Start date
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Tip: make sure engine
I'd start with 2qt Mobil ONE AFT MV synthetic, only needs one but first time you may flush a little extra out. I always pull reservoir and clean with degreaser and rinse with soap & water, takes about 10 min. Just make sure no moisture left in reservoir, air compressor comes in handy or hair dryer. Then replace reservoir and connect lower line, and plug upper inlet nipple (9.55 mm OD). Connect return line (upper line) to extension tube leading to clear plastic bottle. Fill and Do NOT let reservoir run dry while cranking engine to run pump, just pull the fuel pump fuse so it will not start. You can start engine to run pump/flushing, but it's empties reservoir pretty fast (have a helper). Also turning steering wheel back and forth (wheels off ground works best, but not a must) removes fluid from inner compartment along with air bubbles. I'm going to try just turning steering wheel side to side, next time, to see if it will flush with out cranking engine.
You can get clear flexible line (surgical line) at hardware store. I'd get ~6" of 9.55 mm ID to slip over reservoir inlet nipple then clamp off end. Then a second tube with 9.55 MM OD to slip into return line, long enough to run into clear plastic catch bottle. Make sure to torque those connection, you've pictured above, to FSM specs at some point. System may indeed be leaking after a few flushes (~200 miles city driving), but hey this will give you experience and tools for all your future flushes if that is the case.
Notes: It goes without saying, but here goes: Truck must be level when topping any fluid. Set level to cold mark, then go out and drive until hot and recheck/reset level. Repeat next morning once fully cooled down. Re flushing everything earlier then normal (halve as long) the first time after this base line is advisable, as synthetics will clean out the gunk.
Have fun.
Yes, it will only clean reservoir. I'm not a believe in the drain and fill method, for power steering or transmission either. To me, it's like, empting a glass of sewer water half way, then filling with clean. I wouldn't drink it, would you!
I'd start with 2qt Mobil ONE AFT MV synthetic, only needs one but first time you may flush a little extra out. I always pull reservoir and clean with degreaser and rinse with soap & water, takes about 10 min. Just make sure no moisture left in reservoir, air compressor comes in handy or hair dryer. Then replace reservoir and connect lower line, and plug upper inlet nipple (9.55 mm OD). Connect return line (upper line) to extension tube leading to clear plastic bottle. Fill and Do NOT let reservoir run dry while cranking engine to run pump, just pull the fuel pump fuse so it will not start. You can start engine to run pump/flushing, but it's empties reservoir pretty fast (have a helper). Also turning steering wheel back and forth (wheels off ground works best, but not a must) removes fluid from inner compartment along with air bubbles. I'm going to try just turning steering wheel side to side, next time, to see if it will flush with out cranking engine.
You can get clear flexible line (surgical line) at hardware store. I'd get ~6" of 9.55 mm ID to slip over reservoir inlet nipple then clamp off end. Then a second tube with 9.55 MM OD to slip into return line, long enough to run into clear plastic catch bottle. Make sure to torque those connection, you've pictured above, to FSM specs at some point. System may indeed be leaking after a few flushes (~200 miles city driving), but hey this will give you experience and tools for all your future flushes if that is the case.
Notes: It goes without saying, but here goes: Truck must be level when topping any fluid. Set level to cold mark, then go out and drive until hot and recheck/reset level. Repeat next morning once fully cooled down. Re flushing everything earlier then normal (halve as long) the first time after this base line is advisable, as synthetics will clean out the gunk.
Have fun.
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Personally I'd avoid any additives. My feeling is there're best used when on the road as a short term fix, to be flush when home. Let the seal modifiers in the synthetics work, if they don't repair. But that's me.
If his was not leaking as bad as it is I would agree. If he does a flush and clean out all the gunk it's going to leak even more. If he does a flush and uses the Lucus product and it stops leaking then he bought some time for replacing the steering rack. Others that have used the stop leak have no steering problem and no leaks going on 2+ years. Seems like a good thing to me? Ideal would be replace his rack.
Good point Utah. I'd wait through a couple of flushes before the Lucus, may get lucky.
I agree with CanadianRockyCruiser. Most likely set too deep when installed.