Code Blue...62 in need of Doctor...YIKES! (1 Viewer)

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Aug 17, 2005
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UH...OK...check out this motherf*&%^n leak y'all. This saga never ends! What the heck do I do now?? I got the valve cover and MAF sensor all sorted out and then I look down in the grocery store parking lot to see what looks like a pool of blood running out from under bigbertha. I lifted up the hood with her idling and there seemed to be a fine mist of atf slung all over ther engine as if something popped.

I got home,cleaned off the surface sludge and the pix below are what I saw. Leak one is a low leak from a rusted hardlline. It is just seeping through maybe one drop every 10 seconds. Leak two is just pouring out in a stream. Leak two looks a little frothy and aerated and I can't see where the origin is.

I have been checking the leak threads, but I thought the pix might get me some solid answers and serious help!!
 
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Cruiserdrew

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Can you tell if it's from a tranny line or the powersteering? When it sprays out it means pressure, so have a good look at the powersteering high pressure line and pump. The return line can also wear out and leak, but it isn't under much pressure. It looks like you've got some work to do. Don't drive it without fixing or you could fry something expensive.
 

GLTHFJ60

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Well, it looks like you know where your 1st leak is coming from, but I can't tell where in your truck the second is coming from. Is that the front or rear driveshaft?

:beer:
 
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The tranny coolant line is Leak one right? Can I get some hose and 2 clamp things, cut the rusty part and splice in the hose? If so what is the best way to cut the hard rusted line?? Hacksaw? Bolt cutters?

And Leak two is also the front driveshaft. Both leaks are visible in close proximity to each other.

I drove her a bit before I read this thread again and her tranny is slipping a lot. Seems sluggish. It seems to take a few extra seconds to shift down to first when I slow down or stop. Idle is all wacko and sometimes she just slips into neutral when i hit the gas and my rpms race up. This all happened out of the blue. one second she is fine, the next she is gonzo. al queda indeed.

Could this slipping and revving have anything to do with the toasted MAF? I am waiting on a new/used one.

Anyone want to buy a cruiser?? She has some good parts still and is a solid rig. I just can't keep up with all this crap. I just put in a long ranger 38 gallon tank which is prolly worth more than the truck right now.
 
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If you keep driving it like that you won't have a tranny any more; you're probably way low in ATF by now. The difference between the hot and cold marks on the dipstick is only about a pint. Replacing the hard lines is not complicated at all. Just get uncorroded replacements, don't try to patch what you've got.

Bill
 

3_puppies

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definately don't drive it anymore. until its fixed.

replace the coolant lines, they look crusty and you patch one spot and another develops.
 
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The lines are high pressure lines, you can't use hose clamps. You need to have a new set made by a local shop or order some factory ones. I thought the Portland rain made our cars rusty, we've got nothing on you eastcoasters with that salt on the road.
 
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It is possible to stick in a patch if you use ATF rated hose and really good quality clamps. This would be a temp fix at best. New lines are not too expensive but plan on replacing the hoses at the same time. I would guess a new set up OEM will run $400ish or so. They are out there used. Post up in the Wanted section.

The clamp system that holds the hard lines onto the bellhousing and block have small rubber plates in them to protect the line. Make sure you buy new or fab some up. If you dont the lines will crack quickly.
 
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I replaced my leakers with a used set from James at cruiserparts.net. Wasn't expensive.

Bill
 
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Thanks for the advice guys. First thing i did when i saw that leak was to stop at advanced auto parts on the way home and snag some atf. Her levels are fine. will do my best but don't have a penny to spare right now. :(
 
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Thanks for the advice guys. First thing i did when i saw that leak was to stop at advanced auto parts on the way home and snag some atf. Her levels are fine. will do my best but don't have a penny to spare right now. :(

I will check the valve body if i can figure out how to get to it.
 
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OkGuys i crawled upin there with a huge spotlight with the engine running and atf flowing off the bell housing and i found the source of the leak. turns out the high pressure line is spewing out of two rust through holes farther along the line so it was impossible to see until i got right up in there with the spotlight. It is llike burst artery in there.

I ordered two new lines from Cdan, who is great by the way, and will swap them out when they arrive. I was just wondering if there is anything special i will need besides some serious penetrant and wrenches?? Do i need to bleed the tranny first or is it ok to leave whatever fluid is in there because there won't be pressure on the lines when i change them?? is a straightforward swap?
 

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