Clutch Problem on Jack's 40 (1 Viewer)

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I've never had to bench bleed a clutch master, but it sure couldn't hurt. What is the condition of the clutch lines, if rubber, any evidence of dry rot? Are all fittings snug? Might want to grab a brake line wrench to see if you can tighten them a tad. Did the throwout bearing and clutch arm look ok and moving properly?

I've got a one way check valve on the line to the catch bottle that really makes bleeding a simple one person job without having to loosen/tighten the bleeder valve. You just crack the bleeder valve a bit, pump the clutch, and keep filling the reservoir as needed. It's available separately at One Man Brake Bleeder Capture and Refill Bottle / Container - Phoenix Systems.

It may help you.

Good Luck
 
My medical issues have kept me away. I just might make it to the swap meeting though. Be good to see the crew. I'll have some stuff to sell. I've been resurrecting the '40 from its long hibernation. I posted some of the process in the '40 section 'What have you done'.
 
Well, problem solved. I was looking up from under the truck, unbolting the slave cylinder, and I said to myself, "That doesn't look right." The conical nut that serves to adjust the rod length had passed through the hole in the clutch fork. At first I thought that the hole had rusted and given way, but it turns out that the conical nut on the NAPA slave cylinder is considerably smaller than factory and had just pushed through.

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Well, problem solved. I was looking up from under the truck, unbolting the slave cylinder, and I said to myself, "That doesn't look right." The conical nut that serves to adjust the rod length had passed through the hole in the clutch fork. At first I thought that the hole had rusted and given way, but it turns out that the conical nut on the NAPA slave cylinder is considerably smaller than factory and had just pushed through.

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That'll do it. Jack was spot on with his foot feel. It popped through and that's when he lost clutch throw
 

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