Clutch Noise!!!!

[boogie74]

Hi All,

I have a noisy clutch. I believe it is either the input shaft bearing or clutch (fork) release bearing.
The symptoms are that there is a bearing that is constantly squealing. Clutch in or clutch
out it squeals. When the cruiser has warmed up, say after 10 - 20 mins of driving, the noise goes away.
I have adjusted the free play so there is 1" or so before the clutch takes up.

I read somewhere on mud that if there is any pressure on the clutch release fork from the slave
cylinder, and you have a stuffed bearing, it can cause the bearing noise. Can anyone confirm this?
And can the clutch push rod be adjusted? I will have to check if it is fully disengaging from the fork.

I spose either or both of the bearings in there could be stuffed so its time to replace them. If I do that
I will get a new clutch and oil seal done at the same time to save some money further down the track.
I've been looking at the safari tuff clutch kit. It looks the goods. Any advice would be great.

Cheers,

Mudders!!!!

 

[boogie74]

Edit...DErrrr. Re-read the post.

When the clutch pedal is out the squealing starts, when the clutch pedal is pushed in there is no noise.

Cheers,

Mudders!!!!

 

[Ron R]

Sounds to me a problem with the releasebearing.
If you go in there I would replace the top end bearing as well. Is not expensive and fairly easy to replace (with the right tools), thus avoiding to have to get out the gearbox a second time.

If the squeling would start the moment you have the clutch fully disengaged gearbox in gear) then it could be the top end bearing.

 

[boogie74]

Hey Ron,

I dont know how many k's my clutch has done. The cruiser has done 237000. Well that's what the od says Who know's.

I reckon the labour costs would be almost the same to replace the clutch plates, bearings and rear oil
seal as it would to do just the bearings. Do you reckon it would be easier in the long run to just replace the lot.

What sort of clutch do you have Ron? OEM or an aftermarket one?

Cheers mate.

 

[Ron R]

The clutch and bearings are OEM. Replaced all at 190.000k's.
Was not worn at all, but at that time I was taking part in a trip to Russia. One of the requirements to take part was that you had all the spare parts with you or replaced the clutch recently.
Reckoned that if I had to buy the parts anyway I just as good could replace the clutch at that time at home as I had a light vibration when engaging.
Funny note: One of the guys in the group (driving a LR Defender) burned up his clutch during the trip. Had no spares. Had not replaced his clutch recently, though he said so. Had to be towed over a distance of about 600 k's to enable repair.
The guide was not happy so to say when he found out the guy had set him up in that regard.

Oh eh and yes, I think it's better to replace the whole lot at once, when in there. Don't know about labour costs in your area but over here it's about 75 Euro's/hour (like 110 US?). Taking off the gearbox and fitting it again on itself is about 3 - 4 hours of labour in well equipped garage, I guess.
I did it myself in about 5 hours.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Hey Ron,

I dont know how many k's my clutch has done. The cruiser has done 237000. Well that's what the od says Who know's.

I reckon the labour costs would be almost the same to replace the clutch plates, bearings and rear oil
seal as it would to do just the bearings. Do you reckon it would be easier in the long run to just replace the lot.

You would be crazy not to replace the lot

What sort of clutch do you have Ron? OEM or an aftermarket one?

Cheers mate.

The Exedy Sports Tuff or the Safari Tuff are the best repacements IMO.
Its said there are stronger clutches for competition work but you probably wouldnt want one in peak hour traffic.
Ive had an Exedy Sports Tuff clutch for 2years and 50000 klms and Im very happy with it.
They cost about $400-500 for the complete kit.

I noticed you said it squeals all the time and it goes away when warm. That sounds more like the spigget bearing at the end of the engine block.
You still have to pull the gearbox to get at it: (

If you are going to do the lot,factor in flywheel machining,about $50-70

 

[roscoFJ73]

The clutch and bearings are OEM. Replaced all at 190.000k's.
Was not worn at all, but at that time I was taking part in a trip to Russia. One of the requirements to take part was that you had all the spare parts with you or replaced the clutch recently.
Reckoned that if I had to buy the parts anyway I just as good could replace the clutch at that time at home as I had a light vibration when engaging.
Funny note: One of the guys in the group (driving a LR Defender) burned up his clutch during the trip. Had no spares. Had not replaced his clutch recently, though he said so. Had to be towed over a distance of about 600 k's to enable repair.
The guide was not happy so to say when he found out the guy had set him up in that regard.

Wow ,I bet he was popular around the campfire that night
I stopped going out with an LR defender owner after I found out about the state of his vehicle. He bought a new winch even though one of the mountings on the bullbar was rusted 90% of the way through and his gearbox and t/case needed a complete rebuild.
He ended needing a 400klm tow

Oh eh and yes, I think it's better to replace the whole lot at once, when in there. Don't know about labour costs in your area but over here it's about 75 Euro's/hour (like 110 US?). Taking off the gearbox and fitting it again on itself is about 3 - 4 hours of labour in well equipped garage, I guess.
I did it myself in about 5 hours.

Five hours at $70 an hour is what I paid+plus flywheel machining @$60 in AUD

 

[Clint79]

Its not that hard to do your self just the gbox is very heavy and need a extra hand to get it out i did mine no hoist in my oldmans shed set all your tools up a bit of music and plod away at it .
its fun when your under the cruiser and the sand from you last 4x4 sitting on your chassis falls in your eyes

 

[boogie74]

its fun when your under the cruiser and the sand from you last 4x4 sitting on your chassis falls in your eyes

Hahaha!!!!! I know the feeling.
Well with dirt, not so much sand.

Thanks for all the replies,

I was talking to a mate who is a diesel mechanic and was asking a few questions about the clutch change over today.
He gave me some great advice about pulling the trans. He basically said to bolt a steel plate to a trolley jack
to support the trans, then use a rachet strap to hold it on the jack and then remove the trans. Sounds good in theory.
Getting the tranny out is my biggest concern with this job. Anyway I'm gonna give it a go. My diesel mate said
if I get stuck he'll come over and sort it out. He works on semi trailers and stuff so the BJ's running gear will probably
be like a model car to him.

I'm planning on changing the clutch, all bearing and the rear oil seal. Is there anything else I should do when I've
got the gearbox off?

Also, Ross. After using the Sports Tuff clutch would you use it again or go the Safari Tuff. Its about $150 difference.
I haven't been doing extreme off road stuff but I intend to do lots of beach driving and towing. What would you suggest?

Cheers

Slightly stressed but looking forward to doing the clutch.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Also, Ross. After using the Sports Tuff clutch would you use it again or go the Safari Tuff. Its about $150 difference.
I haven't been doing extreme off road stuff but I intend to do lots of beach driving and towing. What would you suggest?

Cheers

Slightly stressed but looking forward to doing the clutch.

I agree with the others ,its an easy job but it takes some muscle. I got someone to do mine ,my driveways crap and on an angle and it just makes almost any job a pain.

I would get the sports tuff again for sure.Which one is cheaper? Either would be ok for your intentions.
Did you see the bit where I reckno its the spiggot bearing?
Even if its not ,its wise to replace that as well

 

[boogie74]

Hi Rosco,
Thanks for the reply. Just a couple more questions, I promise

RooDogs sell the Exedy Sports and Safari clutches for the 13B-T.
Safari $568
Sports $465
Standard $295

Each kit includes the
Pressure Plate
Clutch Plate
Release Bearing
Spigot Bush

I figure if I'm gonna save 400 or 500 bucks on labour I might as well spend a bit extra on the best clutch kit.
Just deciding between Sports and Safari.

Spigot bearing = Spigot Bush? I'm not sure but spose its the same thing.
So the kit has everything I need?
There is an oil seal in there somewhere to isnt there? What is that part called.
Sorry sometimes the same thing is called different depending on who your taking too.

Cheers.

 

[Clint79]

I have seen a bar across the top of the doors over the gearbox hole and a little block and tackle hanging from it, Also when you pull out your gearstick before you get angry at it just push and twist

 

[boogie74]

Hi Clint.

Thanks for the reply. I've got the workshop manual and have read it a couple of times and searched the net and mud for
every clutch thread I can find. I reckon it should be pretty straight forward if I follow the manual and have
someone to help move the tranny. However, what is this this block and tackle you speak of? Please explain!!!!!!

Every little bit of info helps,

Cheers mate.

 

[Clint79]

Im not good a drawing but u get the idea the black line i seen used was a square tube bar ,as for block and tackle aka chain block
You could also have A frames outside the doors each side of the bar and under the gearstick and carpet or vinal theres a big plate/floor bit about the size of that autos center consol which unbolts and lift out

 

[boogie74]

Cool thanks for the pic mate.
Is that what u used for yr clutch job?

How far do u have to move the tranny back to access the insides?
Did u just move it back a foot or two or completely remove it out from under the truck?

Cheers again.

 

[Clint79]

Take your seats out 4 14mm bolts each seat ,takes about 2 min and ur carpet or vinal what do you have?my guess carpet and dont break the plastic clips in the plastic covers that run along your sill panl (were it meets the carpet/vinal)
i did it the first time like that when my box had to come out ,a star picket punched a hole in my tansfer case and lost all the oil etc the 2nd time when i pulled er out to change the clutch ,from mem i think i just did it on the trolly jack like your mate said but was very unstable. once it was out stiing on the ground under the ute with the low range stick left on, i slid it out the side along the driveway it just fitted under the chassis ...sweeet
So i took the box out both times i didnt think about moving it back and leaving it but i dont think there would be enough room anyways

 

[boogie74]

Cool thanks Clint,

Yep carpet. It the Luxury Model Hahaha

Awesome info. I will get the extra gear required for the job over the next couple of weeks. Paying off
the house and fixing the cruiser takes all my pay and then some. But the cruiser must be fixed.

One other thing that would be handy to know is how far back the transmission has to go to till input shaft is
free and the box can be dropped? 50mm? 100mm? Looking at the dash and gear stick boot/cover plate there
is not much room to move in there.

Cheers again.

Also I had a look at the slave cylinder and its making contact with the clutch fork which is bad. I think the clutch
might be slightly engaged. It hasn't been slipping but I think the throw out bearing is spinning constantly. I'll
adjust the slave and hopfully this will stop the noise and buy me a little more time. Won't have time to do it till sept/oct.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Hi Rosco,
Thanks for the reply. Just a couple more questions, I promise

RooDogs sell the Exedy Sports and Safari clutches for the 13B-T.
Safari $568
Sports $465
Standard $295

Each kit includes the
Pressure Plate
Clutch Plate
Release Bearing
Spigot Bush

I figure if I'm gonna save 400 or 500 bucks on labour I might as well spend a bit extra on the best clutch kit.
Just deciding between Sports and Safari.

Spigot bearing = Spigot Bush? I'm not sure but spose its the same thing.
So the kit has everything I need?
There is an oil seal in there somewhere to isnt there? What is that part called.
Sorry sometimes the same thing is called different depending on who your taking too.

Cheers.

Spiggot bush/bearing ,Im not sure which the 13BT has.
Kit has everything except the muscle
There is the rear main oil seal.I think they are about $60 from the dealer. Ive been told always use the Toyota original seal.
I dont know how often these leak on the 13BT. Some Toyota engines like the 3F are bad at the rear for leaking.

I havent driven a cruiser with the Safari Tuff. The Sports Tuff feels a bit heavier duty than the OEM and the Safari is a bit heavier than that,so you can draw your own conclusions.
Im guessing it will feel like pushing your foot into a bucket of sand

 

[boogie74]

Cheers Rosco,

The 13B-T has vac assisted clutch. It pretty much feels like nothing at the moment. I bit harder would be better.

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[Ron R]

One other thing that would be handy to know is how far back the transmission has to go to till input shaft is
free and the box can be dropped? 50mm? 100mm? Looking at the dash and gear stick boot/cover plate there
is not much room to move in there.

I think 50 to 100 mm is needed to get the shaft sufficiently free from the clutch plate and then to be able to swing the tranny downward to get it free and move further backwards as to get completely free of the engine. It's all quite tight.
Maybe a small jack under the front of the engine (block of wood under front part of oil pan) to tilt the front of the engine (be carefull, not too much pressure) thus to drop the rear end a bit.

Make sure there is well enough room underneath (raise the rig on blocks f.i. )to be able to shift the tranny from under the rig.
The more room you have, the easier the job.