Clutch Noise!!!!

[boogie74]

Thank Ron,

More info for the job and troubleshooting ideas are good.
I found a Transmission Jack Adaptor.
This attaches to a trolley jack. Its rated at 500lb (200kg). That should be enough, not sure how much
the box, pto gear and transfer wieght. I think maybe slightly less than that tho.

Great info,

Cheers

 

[Clint79]

Make sure there is well enough room underneath (raise the rig on blocks f.i. )to be able to shift the tranny from under the rig.
The more room you have, the easier the job.

With the wheels where my nice red circles are and the slight dip in the drive way where the red line is with 33's and longer shackles the box just slid out under the chassis so with your spring lift you should be okay but but blocks are a good idea to

 

[boogie74]

Hey Clint,

Got a 2" or so lift. Once I've seperated the box I could put the cruiser on stands to get it out. I was thinking I
could do the TO and fork while the box is under the cruiser. Just lie on me belly and do it. As I know nothing about
the practicals of doing the job and this might be harder than it sound. The less I have to move that heavy sucker the better

 

[roscoFJ73]

This attaches to a trolley jack. Its rated at 500lb (200kg). That should be enough, not sure how much
the box, pto gear and transfer wieght. I think maybe slightly less than that tho.

Great info,

Cheers

I think they weigh around 100kg. I picked up a complete H55f and t/case on my own once and put in a ute.

What makes it difficult to move around or lift is the lop sided nature of the assembly because of the t/case hanging off to one side.
Doesnt matter which way you pick it up,it always wants to rotate

 

[boogie74]

I think they weigh around 100kg. I picked up a complete H55f and t/case on my own once and put in a ute.

You must be a strong bugger

What makes it difficult to move around or lift is the lop sided nature of the
assembly because of the t/case hanging off to one side.
Doesnt matter which way you pick it up,it always
wants to rotate

You read my mind mate. That was gonna be my next question. The trans jack has chains on it to secure the box. I
was thinking there must be a sweet spot where the box will be sorta balanced. You wouldn't want it to get to
lop-sided cause there isn't much of a wheel base on the trolley jack to spread the load. The whole thing could
fall over pretty easy. I might need an extra pair of hands or two when I take it out and put it back in.

 

[roscoFJ73]

You must be a strong bugger

It wasnt enjoyable.

You read my mind mate. That was gonna be my next question. The trans jack has chains on it to secure the box. I
was thinking there must be a sweet spot where the box will be sorta balanced. You wouldn't want it to get to
lop-sided cause there isn't much of a wheel base on the trolley jack to spread the load. The whole thing could
fall over pretty easy. I might need an extra pair of hands or two when I take it out and put it back in.

I think having at least one offsider is mandatory. The centre of gravity in them breaks all the rules of physics.

 

[Clint79]

It wasnt enjoyable.






I think having at least one offsider is mandatory. The centre of gravity in them breaks all the rules of physics.

Rosco schwarzenegger you should have just put your back/spine in the bin for the next week or so ay?

 

[Ron R]

Don't want to play Rosco down, but I think 100 kgs is a bit over the top.
But it's heavy I can tell. A jack adapter will come in handy here.
Getting it off is one thing. Back on another. Make sure the clutchdisk is properly centered or it's impossible to get it back on.

If you have to put the rig on stands to get enough clearence to get the tranny from underneath, I would start driving it onto blocks with all four wheels. Much easier and safer than jacking it onto four stands.
The more space you have underneath the easier it will be to acces nuts and bolts.

Moving the tranny away will provide some extra workspace so it will be easier to acces the flywheel for removal if you want to replace the oilseal and replace the top end bearing (spigotbearing/bushing).

BTW if there is squeel with the clutchpedal released it's not the top end bearing.
This bearing can/will only rotate when the clutchpedal is pressed.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Don't want to play Rosco down, but I think 100 kgs is a bit over the top.
But it's heavy I can tell. .

No offence taken,it was a few years back .In hind sight it was probably more like 80KG.

 

[boogie74]

@ 80kg's aye,

Good news!!! The transmission jack is rated at 200kg's so it should handle it like a piece of pi$$. Just hope me and my
mate can handle it The bearing noise is starting to get worse but it might be just that I'm listening to it to much.
It will be another 7 or 8 weeks before I'll have time to do it. Hope it holds out.

I had a look at the slave cylinder and there is no free play to the fork. I thought you could adjust them be couldn't
find any nuts to adjust on the push rod. Could I crack the bleeder screw to relieve some pressure. I don't think that
would work tho. Anyone know what to do? I'm gonna have a well equipt workshop after this job is done.

Cheers All

Gav.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I had a look at the slave cylinder and there is no free play to the fork. I thought you could adjust them be couldn't
find any nuts to adjust on the push rod. Could I crack the bleeder screw to relieve some pressure. I don't think that
would work tho. Anyone know what to do? I'm gonna have a well equipt workshop after this job is done.

Cheers All

Gav.

I think I unbolted the whole slave cyl and tied it up high out of the way.
It was easy whatever I did.

In reference to your query about leaving the transmission under there while you work on the clutch and flywheel,I think you will find its best removed from under the vehicle

 

[Clint79]

In reference to your query about leaving the transmission under there while you work on the clutch and flywheel,I think you will find its best removed from under the vehicle

X2 it would be 100% better to get it out the way then you can sit under the crusier with your head in the gear box space staring at the back of the motor wondering WHY lol jks its not that bad

 

[boogie74]

Thanks for the heads up guys.

I'm learning!!!!

I did a box on a corolla about ten years ago. That was so light I
could pick it up and put it in myself. This is gonna be a bit different.
Not to much different, just heavier.

Rosco,

Regarding the slave cylinder. I was wondering if it was adjustable in any way.
Can you change the length of the push rod? I will remove it to do the clutch.

Thanks

 

[Clint79]

My brothers fj73 has a "slipping clutch" so we changed it out still had a simular slipage problem and it was something to do with the push rod lenghth it was worn away to short i think i can ask tomorrow exactly what was done to fix the prob

 

[boogie74]

Thanks Clint,

Have a good one buddy,

Cheers,

Gav.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Rosco,

Regarding the slave cylinder. I was wondering if it was adjustable in any way.
Can you change the length of the push rod? I will remove it to do the clutch.

Thanks

Im pretty sure there in no adjustment as its hydraulic. When I did my engine swap,I added a BJ70 hydraulic line as the slaves are on opposite sides to the 3F slave and joined the line to the new 1HZ slave.
It was all plug and play

I guess you could change the push rod but why would you do that?

 

[Ron R]

If there is no play between fork and pushrod, this means the piston cannot move backward as far as it should go.
Two options:
piston stuck in cylinder : dismantle, clean and new seals.
Problem related to the clutch master:
Piston cannot move fully backwards: pushrod too long or pedal doesn't move freely and/or far enough.
The piston should move sufficiently backward as to clear the passage to the reservoir. That way the pressure in the system is fully released.

 

[boogie74]

Hi Ron and Rosco,

Yeah I thought there was spose to be play between the slave and fork. Thats what the FSM says. 3 -4 mm of play. There is none and now there's a slight weep of fluid on the slave. There is constant pressure on the push rod from the fork.

The only thing I've changed in the system so far is the clutch booster. There is an adjustment on it that I will look at, where the booster push rod actuates (?) the master can be adjusted. I didn't think it hit the master when I installed it and there is play in the booster push rod after the pedal is moved. I'll keep on trouble shooting.

Cheers.

 

[Ron R]

Think that when you slightly (millimeters) move the released clutch clutchpedal by hand up and down, there should be at last a kind of 'clicking' feeling indcating that there is some play between pedal, pushrod and the clutch mastercylinder piston, thus making sure the piston is fully returned and clears the passage to the reservoir.
I never had the clutch mastercylinder, like you have, apart, but I assume there is a returnspring inside.
Eventually check this spring. Could be it lost it's strength, although unlikely.

 

[boogie74]

Hi Ron,

When I replaced the booster I rebuilt the master. It has a new spring inside. I kept the old one as a spare cause it
looked brand new. I will pull the master and adjust the push rod on the booster. It might solve my problem. I bought a rebuild
kit for the slave but didn't put it in cause it wasn't leaking. My parts supplier said they couldn't get a new master or slave for
the BJ74 clutch. I got the rebuild kit. Even then they said the slave rebuild was the last one in the country. Must be true but its hard to beleive.

Cheers.