Clutch Help!

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A

aprice2pay

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Threads
3
Messages
11
Location
Laveen, AZ
Hey I was hoping some of you techinical minded Toyota owners can help me out. I purchased a 1995 Toyota DLX 4x4(3.0VZE) and I am now having some clutch problems with it. Specifically it's slipping and I need to get this sucker fixed.
Problem number 1 - I'm broke, which means I'll be doing the work myself.
Problem number 2 - I don't know what I'm doing.
Problem number 3 - Heard it would be best to change flywheel at the same time, and again, no experience here either.

If you have any experience or advice to offer I'd appreciate it. I took one look at the manual and the first direction was "pull transmission" and I got spooked. I'm pretty decent with my hands, but I'm not sure if I can handle this...

Thanks for your time, and please go easy on me...I'm new
 
read your manual and do what it says. you can have your flywheel resurfaced instead of buying a new one. removing the transmissions is a big job but putting it back in is an even bigger job with out some help or a transmission jack.
 
First check that there's at least a little free play between the clutch fork and the slave cylinder (pass side of the bell housing on the trans) If it's not moving, you may have an adjustment issue at the master cylinder.

That's step one. Let us know what you find! and Welcome to Mud!!!!!! :flipoff2:
 
I have LOTS of experience with doing clutches on these trucks, I just finished doing another one yesterday, will be doing another one in a few weeks on my son's truck. A few tips:

* get a tranny jack and a helper.
* see if there is a Toyota club in your area, try to recruit someone that can help you that has done this before.
* I disagree with a lot of the steps in the manual, they make it take too long. I really think I could have a tranny out in about 2 hours, working by myself, and taking my time. You DO NOT need to drop the front differential. You DO NOT need to remove the rear driveshaft, just disconnect it from the back of the transfer case and swing it out of the way. You DO NOT need to remove the front driveshaft, just unbolt it from the front differential, let it hang from the front of the transfer.
* plan on a weekend for this project, mostly because you'll have some downtime while you run off and have the flywheel resurfaced. What I like to do is get a spare flywheel, have it cut ahead of time, so it's ready to swap in.
* try to get air tools. Even borrow a portable compressor and impact gun will be OK. You'll also need 14mm and 17mm swivel-type sockets (among a bunch of other things), and several long extensions.
* get some old muffin pans to keep your nuts and bolts organized.
* the first thing to do is disconnect the battery. You have to unbolt the starter, and there is a risk of a fire if the battery is still hooked up.
* since you'll have the crossmember out, change the fuel filter. It's MUCH easier to change now. You'll need 14mm and 17mm flare wrenches.
* do NOT buy a cheapo clutch. Toyota OEM is my preference, but I hear good things about Centerforce (no experience there)
* Unbolt the front anti-swaybar at the frame mounts only, let it hang.

Don't be afraid, it's not that hard.
 
aprice2pay. I live in AZ and am willing to give you a hand if needed. Good luck!!
 
KLF-
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Is there any tools you can think of off hand that I may need that aren't necessarily run of the mill? I read in the manual about a "special tool" needed to pull the pilot. Any suggestions on that?
 
enterconnect, are you hitting on me? lol! I'd better get this knocked out while you're still my neighbor, because I'm not going to drive to Sedona and listen to your ol' lady whine all weekend while we wrench on the truck. Word....
 
KLF-
Sorry for being a bug, but is the oil pan easily accessible when the tranny's out? it appears that it is and i need to redo the seal. I tried this already about 10 months ago, but I think I f**ked up when I let the dude at auto zone talk me into a cork gasket, instead of following my manual which specifies the OEM toyota sealant. Also, is the baffle even necessary? Does it serve a purpose other than frustration?
 
I've used that grease trick in a past a couple of times, it does work, but it takes too long and makes a big goopy mess. No thanks.

I have a puller from Mac Tools, it's part number S120, unfortunately their stupid website doesn't have a picture of it. Maybe I'll remember to post a picture of it later. It's quite ingenious, a little hook on one end, with a hand, then a big hook on the other end that you smack with a hammer. Takes usually 2-3 smacks with a hammer and the bearing pops right out. Harbor Freight also used to sell a knock-off, I can't seem to find it on their website now.

Edit: found one on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAC-...ols?hash=item5ad3cfdb30&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

I'm really not sure on the oil pan question, but I would think that it might actually work to be able to unbolt and remove it to the rear. NO there is not supposed to be a cork gasket on that pan, and yes it will leak if you install one. The pans after '85 don't have the proper ridge in the sealing face to make a cork gasket work, you MUST use FIPG (Form In Place Gasket), get the black stuff from Toyota or also the Permatex "Right Stuff" works great too, in the Cheez-Wiz can.

By "baffle" do you mean the baffle in the bottom of the oil pan? If yes, then yes that baffle is important, it's called a "windage baffle". It keeps oil from sloshing out of the pan on curves or if you're sitting at an extreme angle. Without that baffle the oil pump will suck up air, no oil pressure, your engine will go boom.
 
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aprice2pay said:
enterconnect, are you hitting on me? lol! I'd better get this knocked out while you're still my neighbor, because I'm not going to drive to Sedona and listen to your ol' lady whine all weekend while we wrench on the truck. Word....
Click to expand...

Your not my type. haha. Let me know when your ready to do this. Later Hater.
 
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