Closed Cell Spray Foam Insulation for Camper Remodel?

[VFRMAN]

Just looking for an updated review of closed cell spray foam insulation these days. I have an old camper I gutted to make into my new fish house

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hunting-fishing/259462-mn-ice-fishing-12.html

and instead of putting back fiberglass batts, or using styrofoam like I did in my old fish house, I'd really like to finish up all the wiring how I want it, then have it professionally spray foamed to seal it all up and hopefully add some structural rigidity to it at the same time. I have a bunch of rotten 2x2's to repair/replace first and a laundry list of other things to do before I'm ready to spray, but hoping once all of that's complete, I can call my neighbor who does the spraying to swing by and spray the whole interior. Then just shave it down flat to the studs and install the tongue and groove pine planking.

Researching this stuff, some people don't like it for some possible moisture holding issues, but to me it seems like the way to go other than the cost? Not interested in doing the DIY kits as they seem like more money and a lot more messy and inconvenient for a basically small project like this.

The camper will have new windows too so don't base it on the "why bother, it's not made for 30 below zero anyway" approach. When it's done it'll sit on a frozen lake for 3 months and be just toasty like the old one was. Just wondering if there's any compelling reasons to NOT do it other than cost? Any input good or bad is greatly appreciated.

Also, I grabbed a bunch of old insulated overhead garage door panels from my brother that I plan to use as "skirting" around the base so no worries about the floor being cold at -30 that far off the ice. Thanks

 

[VFRMAN]

One pic of one of my fishing buddie's old camper he's been using for years. Works like a charm other you do sit farther off the ice than most people like. I haven't found it to be a problem at all. And you don't freeze down to the ice if the lake floods while you're gone for 2 weeks and you have to chainsaw your $15,000 Ice Castle out of the ice.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I sprayed roofs and a lot of other stuff for a living when I lived in Las Vegas.
The stuff works better than fiberglass since it won't retain water, maybe once the skin is shaved it would trap moisture? You could add a moisture barrier over the studs before you panel it, I'd assume moisture would come from condensation inside the trailer.

One plus is you will get a higher R value per inch than fiberglass, down side hope you never have to work on anything in the walls. It is impossible to remove once sprayed on.

 

[VFRMAN]

Thanks Dan. Once it's ready for foam, it "shouldn't" need anything done. If it does, I'll have to make do I guess. I think maybe the complaints were from more the RV/camper crowd with single pane windows and not used to cold weather. Those cheap RV windows sweat so bad when it's freezing out. Or if they're using a cheapo ventless garage heater type furnace. Throwing all that moisture in the air in a closed space has to be about impossible to control. At this point, I have a $500 camper so if it's get moist down the road, so be it. Once it has insulated windows and my vented forced air furnace, I think it will be fine. Just wasn't sure if there were any other factors I was missing with the spray foam.

Other than cost. But if I have $1500-$2000 in this thing when I'm done, I'm still $5,000-$10,000 cheaper than a new Ice Castle. Thanks again.

 

[PAToyota]

Guessing the moisture problems are from those using cheap, open cell foams. Those will hold moisture like a sponge. If you go with a good, closed cell foam you shouldn't have any problems.

 

[rusty_tlc]

The commercial stuff is completely unlike the canned stuff. It is applied through a heated proportioning nozzle and sprayed at high pressure. When it is cured it is much more rigid than the canned stuff or the two part consumer products. I think it will work out fine for your application.

 

[VFRMAN]

Looking to put a/c in in it when I'm done. I found a take-off roof top RV a/c unit pretty cheap, but had just been planning on framing in a mount for a cheapo home wall unit. Both have to run off 110v anyway. Worth messing with a home unit for something that's going to be bouncing down the road, or should I buck up and buy the Coleman Mach 3, 15,000(13,500?) BTU unit?

 

[cruiserpilot]

One pic of one of my fishing buddie's old camper he's been using for years. Works like a charm other you do sit farther off the ice than most people like. I haven't found it to be a problem at all. And you don't freeze down to the ice if the lake floods while you're gone for 2 weeks and you have to chainsaw your $15,000 Ice Castle out of the ice.

I have to ask, how old is that blue Viking sled? The trucks look new, so it's not an old photo. A true classic!

 

[VFRMAN]

It's a 70 something Viking. Look in my MN Ice Fishing thread and I think I had some info on it. He fit a late model suspension in there and an engine from something else. Definitely not a stocker. I'm roadtripping with the family right now and doing this from my phone in a dark basement in Lincoln NE while the kids are trying to go to sleep, so I'm a bit cobbled up searching threads.