Climate Control / Airbag / Radar / Parking Assist NOT WORKING (1 Viewer)

[EconomistAZ]

I have a 2019 TLC with about 14,000 miles on her. Four years ago, when new, I made a number of modifications for Overlanding. I did not tap into the factory harness or wiring for any of the modifications. A few weeks ago, while trekking through some mud and snow, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. I took it to the dealership, under the extended warranty and they were unable to fix any of the issues (after replacing the lower head unit in the dash). In typical fashion, they blamed all the accessories. I explained that none of the accessories tapped into the factory harness in any way. Regardless, they insisted that I "get it back to factory" before they would work on it any more.

I took it home and removed and/or disconnected everything. I returned it to them for the next round. They now says that none of the diagnostic tools they have will "return normal values" so they still cannot diagnose the issue. They said it was still not "back to factory". When I pressed, they said that the start battery was in the wrong spot (I swapped spots when I added the second battery --- which is now completely disconnected) and the battery terminal connections are not factory (they are SLEE replacement terminals). I cannot imagine how that would throw off the diagnostic tools. Anyone experience such an issue? Any help?

 

[bloc]

My understanding of the magnussen moss warranty act is that they have to prove a modification caused a failure. Not sure how this plays into starting the diagnostics.. IMO they are using your kids as an excuse to get out of a diagnostic they don’t want to deal with. I’ll let others with more experience chime in on future steps with them.

I’d definitely be checking the area under the front door sill plastic for water around the wiring harnesses. Usually not an issue in a rig so new but since this all happened when playing in wet conditions..

 

[lx200inAR]

Total speculation, but there is at least one network gateway ECU that allows many ECUs to talk to each other and the main ECU. Possibly an issue there, but it would be way better to throw Techstream on it and start diagnosing rather than blind internet speculation t-shooting.

No advice on how to force someone to honor a warranty.

 

[grinchy]

There are reports of the original (four year old . . .) version of the slee terminals corroding and not providing good contact. Maybe start with replacing the battery terminals.

 

[EconomistAZ]

Total speculation, but there is at least one network gateway ECU that allows many ECUs to talk to each other and the main ECU. Possibly an issue there, but it would be way better to throw Techstream on it and start diagnosing rather than blind internet speculation t-shooting.

No advice on how to force someone to honor a warranty.

Thanks. I have inquired as to specifically what data they are unable to retrieve.

 

[EconomistAZ]

There are reports of the original (four year old . . .) version of the slee terminals corroding and not providing good contact. Maybe start with replacing the battery terminals.

Thanks. I will have them look at those connections. I may also have to go down and connect a factory battery with factory connections to resolve their concerns.

 

[82SC]

I think a list of modifications would help us help you.

First thought that comes to mind is water ingress somewhere (wires thru firewall or grommets modified to allow for wire passage) and corroded terminals due to the water.

 

[EconomistAZ]

I think a list of modifications would help us help you.

First thought that comes to mind is water ingress somewhere (wires thru firewall or grommets modified to allow for wire passage) and corroded terminals due to the water.

Great idea. Happy to share the mods. None of the electrical items are still connected and everything worked for nearly 4 years -- Two batteries (Oddessy) / Redarc DC to DC charger / SwitchPro / Front BlueSea Panel for (Ham radio, Rigid Light bar / Rigid Scene lights / Rigid ditch lights / Rigid backup lights / Garmin In Reach / Chase lights / USB's in cab / Underhood LED's / Rocklights) / CBI custom aluminum front bumper / SLEE Rear Bumper / Icon Stage 7 kit / Warn 12K winch / 220 Watt Solar panel/ Garmin In Reach / TrexBoxx / Rear BlueSea panel for (ARB air compressor / Rear hatch LED's /SnoMaster fridge) / CBI skid plates / Custom 1/4 inch thick plate protecting a LRA fuel tank / and I am sure a few things I forgot.

 

[Sandroad]

I'll guess water in the wrong spot. Even a 4 year old can have clogged roof drains.
I'll also suggest checking all the wiring/connections to the starter battery. I assume some basic voltage measurements have been taken.
Since you've not tapped into the factory wiring, those 2 things are the places I would start.

 

[EconomistAZ]

I'll guess water in the wrong spot. Even a 4 year old can have clogged roof drains.
I'll also suggest checking all the wiring/connections to the starter battery. I assume some basic voltage measurements have been taken.
Since you've not tapped into the factory wiring, those 2 things are the places I would start.

I will see what they have measured at the starter battery. When I checked it on Friday (after stripping away all electrical mods), it was 12.85, resting and 14.0 when running.

 

[Sandroad]

Great idea. Happy to share the mods. None of the electrical items are still connected and everything worked for nearly 4 years -- Two batteries (Oddessy) / Redarc DC to DC charger / SwitchPro / Front BlueSea Panel for (Ham radio, Rigid Light bar / Rigid Scene lights / Rigid ditch lights / Rigid backup lights / Garmin In Reach / Chase lights / USB's in cab / Underhood LED's / Rocklights) / CBI custom aluminum front bumper / SLEE Rear Bumper / Icon Stage 7 kit / Warn 12K winch / 220 Watt Solar panel/ Garmin In Reach / TrexBoxx / Rear BlueSea panel for (ARB air compressor / Rear hatch LED's /SnoMaster fridge) / CBI skid plates / Custom 1/4 inch thick plate protecting a LRA fuel tank / and I am sure a few things I forgot.

Nice! Did any of that involve running wiring through places that might leak?

 

[Sandroad]

I will see what they have measured at the starter battery. When I checked it on Friday (after stripping away all electrical mods), it was 12.85, resting and 14.0 when running.

Voltages seem fine. Still worth checking wires/terminals.
There are extensive threads on here with ideas about where to look for water. Door sills are often the villain.

 

[EconomistAZ]

Nice! Did any of that involve running wiring through places that might leak?

Very limited with the SwitchPro. Only one wire comes into the cab. The BlueSea Panel does have a few wires than run through, but now that they are all disconnected and the BlueSea panel has been removed, I am not sure how water there could be causing the problem. I will take a look to see if there is any evidence of water hitting the areas where I ran those wires into the cab. Thanks!

 

[82SC]

for these your installer definitely had to at least pass the switchpro wires thru the firewall
And alot of panels were taken off and wires from your outside lights (especially the roof and rears might have had to be passed into the cab)

I think an easy start is take off the kick panels of the drivers side and passenger side and the protective cover under the dash in the foot well.

All are very easy to take off and just requires simple household tools
A panel removal kit will minimize damage to your panels and help pry off any stubborn clips.
If you happen to break a clip they can be easily replaced by taking them to a toyota dealership parts department

I'd look for any water...or corrosion around the terminals
Also I'd look for any loose connectors

Did you speak to your installer about the issues?

From a dealer perspective its a nightmare working on modified vehicles as you have no idea what was done to them and they can only troubleshoot what they are trained to troubleshoot.

An independent shop that does off road work and maybe has a previous toyota master tech might be useful
Or a dealership like Ed Martin in Indiana that does modifications in house might be a better resource. Maybe you can find a dealership in your area that does some aftermarket installs as they might be more willing to help.

You have the cream of the crop components. And hopefully you had a competent installer.

But half your modifications are electrical and even though everything might have been wired to an independent power system your installer ran wires along side your factory wires and zip tied and bundled things together shoved wires thru firewalls and grommets and everything is packaged so tight. electrical is the worst....

 

[bloc]

I'll second concern over firewall grommets. One user posted with a nightmare scenario where installer pushed through the factory dash harness of a new vehicle (I think) in the process.

But still, check the door sill areas for water.

 

[CharlieS]

These seem like disparate systems, so I'd be digging through the EWD looking for points of commonality. Things like grounds, body control ECU, junction connectors, fuses, that sort of thing. Once you determine that, I'd verify relevant components are getting power and ground at the plug, check fuses, look for any signs of corrosion in pins, check that all connectors are all still firmly seated. A bad ground alone has been known to wreak mass havoc...

 

[05ls430518]

As a last resort call toyota corporate when New country lexus tried to f me on my LX, I called lexus corporate presented my case to them in a calm manner. They ended up reimbursing me for $2500 and the dealership got into a lot of trouble for trying to commit fraud. This is a last resort option if the dealer is going to play games end it. No one wants to deal with the squeaky wheel.

 

[EconomistAZ]

I spoke directly with the tech yesterday. He is a very nice but very young guy. He is trying to follow all the factory diagnostic procedures and giving it his best. I am going to meet with the head of service today and will propose that we get a more experienced person looking at it. The tech provided the following explanation (via the service manager) yesterday:

The Test that he needs to do is a Peco scope Test. Which test Frequency through wires.

The 2 first steps of the Test that Toyota wants us to do is Connector to Airbag and Connector to Radio. Currently the frequency are all over the place which is why they are wanting to bring as much back to factory specs as possible.

 

[lx200inAR]

the 1st test is a test with a PicoScope? Do they know how to use one. And that the "frequency" (waveform) should be changing as that is what the PicoScope is looking for.

 

[EconomistAZ]

the 1st test is a test with a PicoScope? Do they know how to use one. And that the "frequency" (waveform) should be changing as that is what the PicoScope is looking for.

I am not under the impression that they understand what a PicoScope does -- but in fairness, I do not have a clue either.