Clay bar (1 Viewer)

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I know a lot of us have nicely restored FJ 40 trucks. Are there any of you that have done or had done a clay bar treatment to the finish? If so, is it worth it? Pros & Cons? Maybe not a Tech topic, but I’m thinking of doing both Cazzuto and my 40.

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Highly recommend using a clay bar on your paint. The clay gets all kinds of stuff out of the pores in the paint - including oxidation.

Liquid wax and a cleaned car and go. It’s a workout. And clay bars last a really long time.

If the bar is big, break it up into sizes that work for you.
 
^^ I agree with @DeskJock. I had never heard of claying a vehicle until I attended YouTube University. Watched a few vids and it was easy-peasy. I thought Chemical Guys had some pretty okay videos. (Yes, I know they are promoting their high priced products). Be sure to frequently lube your clay. Also, I believe that after you clay your vehicles you will need to go back with a protective wax or ceramic.
 
^^ I agree with @DeskJock. I had never heard of claying a vehicle until I attended YouTube University. Watched a few vids and it was easy-peasy. I thought Chemical Guys had some pretty okay videos. (Yes, I know they are promoting their high priced products). Be sure to frequently lube your clay. Also, I believe that after you clay your vehicles you will need to go back with a protective wax or ceramic.
Agreed- fill the paint pores with wax or something.
 
I think that one of the first things is to determine if you have a single stage paint finish or a clearcoat. Yes, you can way over think this whole process; ask me how I know. Below are excerpts from some notes that I assembled on the subject:

There are at least 4 steps to a comprehensive paint correction and polish project:
A. Wash
1. Spray vehicle with plain water to initially remove surface crud.
2. Fill foam Cannon with water then add 2 oz of Mr. Pink Foaming Car Wash Soap, stir, don’t shake. (Don’t want it to foam)
3. Foam Cannon the entire vehicle and let foam sit a couple of minutes if it’s not too hot or in direct sun.
4. 2-bucket method: Fill one Heavy Duty Ultra Clear Detailing Bucket with soapy water; activate suds with spray; put Cyclone Dirt Trap Grids in buckets. Dunk clean mitt in soapy water and gently scrub. Rinse mitt often in bucket reserved for dirty water.
5. Put one Chemical Guys MIC49302 Chenille Premium Scratch-Free Microfiber Wash Mitt, Lime Green, in soap bucket. Starting at the top, wipe down vehicle. LINEAR MOTION. FLIP MITT. After 2-3 passes, rinse mitt in other bucket and ring out; then back to soap bucket.
6. Dry with Drying Agent (Lucent Spray Shine Synthetic Spray Wax) and Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Drying Towel. Spray Lucent Spray Shine Synthetic Spray Wax directly onto the vehicle and wipe off with towel.
7. Avoid doing this in full sunlight.
(Part 1)

B. Clay Vehicle to Remove Surface Contaminates
1. Break off a chunk of IPELY 4 Pack 100g Car Clay Bar Auto Detailing Magic Car Clay Bar Auto Detailing Cleaner or OG Clay Bar (Light/Medium Duty, Yellow) and knead flat to size of about 3 fingers;
2. Use spray bottle of Clay Luber Synthetic Lubricant and rub surface to remove contaminates work in an area of about 2'x2';
3. As clay surface gets dirty, fold and re-knead clay;
4. Wipe Down with microfiber towel;
5. Spray vehicle with Wipe Out Surface Cleanser Spray;

C. 2-Step Process Cutting and Polishing
(Part 3)
How To Properly Prep, Polish & Protect Your Paint! - Chemical Guys - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbTlV0Sz0-I

I used Rupes LHR 15ES Big Foot Random Orbital Polisher

a. Cutting
1. After Clay Bar but before applying cut polish Spray with Wipe Out Surface Cleanser Spray (IPA Spray)
2. Start with Orange HexLogic Medium Cutting Pad or Lake Country CCS White Foam Dual Action Heavy Polishing Pad
3. Apply 3-4 dabs of pea size V36 Optical Grade Cutting Polish or Rupes Fine Compound for Polish & Swirl Remove Buffing Compound to pad
4. Apply Polishing & Buffing Pad Conditioner to pad to moisten.
5. With machine of dab pad onto vehicle in 2' square area to spread compound
6. Ensure that pad is completely flat and spinning at all times
7. When cutting, start machine slow and turn to high
8. Wipe off residue with microfiber towel
9. Use air compressor to frequently clean pad or use brush with pad on machine on slow speed.

b. Polishing
1. Change to White Hex-Logic Light-Medium Polishing Pad
2. Apply 3-4 dabs of pea size V38 Optical Grade Cutting Polish compound to pad
4. Apply Polishing & Buffing Pad Conditioner to pad to moisten.
5. With machine of dab pad onto vehicle in 2' square area to spread compound
6. Ensure that pad is completely flat and spinning at all times
7. When cutting, start machine slow and turn to high
8. Wipe off residue with microfiber towel

D. Finish Protection
Detailing Flowchart A to Z --- Part 3: How To Apply Protectants! Ceramic, Glaze, Sealant and Wax! - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNSwR149nTk

1. Wipe down vehicle with Wipeout Surface preparation and a microfiber towel.
2. Apply Carbon Force Ceramic Coating. Put ceramic coating on applicator by turning bottle upside down onto pad, then turn bottle right side up. Use 2x2 section, back and forth in same direction with overlap, then perpendicular cross hatch.
3. After about a minute, wipe off with clean microfiber cloth.
4. Optional: Apply Glaze over ceramic coating to hid any left over swirls. Use machine on lowest setting to very quickly spread glaze Lowest speed setting 5 seconds for entire trunk lid. Let set for 10 minutes before wiping off with microfiber towel.

How To Layer Your Glazes, Sealants, & Waxes - Chemical Guys - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShiwNx9HO5M

E. Glass
How To Clean and Seal Glass! - Chemical Guys - https://youtu.be/G3c-4X48a48?si=OPz9xM3aAufUtyws
How To Get Perfect Glass Everytime! - Clean Glass Windows Easily - Chemical Guys Car Care - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoSncvPv7uE

DETAILING FLOWCHART.jpg


I used a product called Slick Shoes Dressing Concentrate for tire treatment.

The whole process is a lot of work but the end result was worthwhile. Hope some of this helps the group.
 
I recommend doing a chemical decontamination before claying using an iron and fallout remover. That will cut down on the mechanical work required to remove the remainder with the clay bar. I like car pro products personally. Also clay tends to mar the paint so a good idea to polish before sealing.
 
I recommend doing a chemical decontamination before claying using an iron and fallout remover. That will cut down on the mechanical work required to remove the remainder with the clay bar. I like car pro products personally. Also clay tends to mar the paint so a good idea to polish before sealing.
I have zero experience with this, that is why I’m asking about it, hopefully to learn a few things before jumping into it. When you say clay bar tends to mar the paint, could you elaborate? Will a clay bar permanently damage my finish? If so, why would anyone do it?
 
In order to scrub stubborn stuff off an abrasive speeds up the process - tooth paste for example is an abrasive. Polishing is some form of abrasive action or it doesn't do anything.

You can polish more off if needed easily, hard and expensive to put it back. Time yourself say 2 minutes per square foot. Doesn't suit you try another minute or two. Be very careful on sharp corners/ridges, you can polish threw the paint very quickly because of the small surface area compared to out on the flat.

Some folks could ruin an anvil with a rubber mallet.
 
I have zero experience with this, that is why I’m asking about it, hopefully to learn a few things before jumping into it. When you say clay bar tends to mar the paint, could you elaborate? Will a clay bar permanently damage my finish? If so, why would anyone do it?
Paint is durable but relatively soft compared to glass for example. Everything mars paint on a microscopic level for example running your finger across dry paint with dust on it introduces microscopic scratches. Even hand washing micro scratches paint which is why you use soap as a lubricant and ideally double bucket wash to minimize the amount of dirt that gets dragged across the paint by the wash cloth. Clay barring is a mechanical process so it also can introduce micro scratches.

That is why you have to periodically polish paint, to remove these tiny scratches. Polishing removes a very thin layer of the paint which is why ideally paint is thick enough to be polished many multiple times over the life of the paint job. It isn’t permanently ruining your finish it’s just a reality of a painted vehicle.
 

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