Christmas Tree Lights - 1HZ (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 5, 2014
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Location
Easley, SC
I rebuilt the top end of my 91 HZJ77 as somebody must have ran it hot before I got it. Before all of tearing it down, I flushed the coolant, made a mess and got water everywhere. The last time I cranked it before working on the head, I noticed the lights (pictured) were all lit up. Reving it didn’t help. I put it away thinking whatever got wet would dry out by the time I finished.

Well, it didn’t. Truck is charging OK, just can’t get the lights off. Anyone had this issue, please share your thoughts.

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Let me add that the lights that remain on are t-belt, charging, filter and AT temp lights. Parking brake and door lights are me.
 
Is it possible that you didn't reseat a connector fully somewhere?
 
I don’t think that’s it as this happened before I took the head off and parked it.
 
Not meaning to be a smarty pants. Have you got a wiring diagram in the fsm?
Electrical faults typically has to be traced. All fuses, connections leading to your dash.
Pretty advanced sort of stuff rebuilding the top. Yes I have left things dry after a bit of water shorting out something went away. Has happened on the glow relay for me before, couple hours, next day etc.

But, if it is not going away, need to trace the wires and connections. Looks like a connection which is powering most of your dash.
 
Commonly caused by worn alternator brushes or a defective voltage regulator.
 
Not meaning to be a smarty pants. Have you got a wiring diagram in the fsm?
Electrical faults typically has to be traced. All fuses, connections leading to your dash.
Pretty advanced sort of stuff rebuilding the top. Yes I have left things dry after a bit of water shorting out something went away. Has happened on the glow relay for me before, couple hours, next day etc.

But, if it is not going away, need to trace the wires and connections. Looks like a connection which is powering most of your dash.
I was fortunate enough to have all of the hardcopies of the FSMs come with this truck. I think the PO knew something was amiss but forgot to share it with me. Anyhow, I’m going to start looking at it this weekend to trace. I’ve had this happen on other vehicles, and like you, it usually goes away. I cranked it last night and the lights were off. Shut it down, cranked again and they’re back.
 
Started it yet again and checked alternator again. Now, it reading around 19v and skipping around. I order a brush and new voltage regulator to see if that remedies the issue.

Maybe related or not; the glow plug relay is clicking every ten seconds while running.
 
Disconnect the glow system to start with.
There should be no continuous clicking.
 
Are you certain it's the glow relay?

I once lived for years with an intermittent fault on my Hilux - in damp weather there would be a regular relay clicking and flashing of the same dash lights you have, which would increase as engine speed increased. It would go if I turned on the side lights or heater. Years later I traced it to a faulty voltage regulator.

I've also had a faulty starter relay which caused an open short in the starter circuit and made a very angry buzzing sound.

So could be an issue with your glow relay too. I would test things (see FSM) before buying new parts for everything that coud be wrong. That said, a pare set of alternator brushes is something that should be present IMO in a good set of spares.
 
Are you certain it's the glow relay?

I once lived for years with an intermittent fault on my Hilux - in damp weather there would be a regular relay clicking and flashing of the same dash lights you have, which would increase as engine speed increased. It would go if I turned on the side lights or heater. Years later I traced it to a faulty voltage regulator.

I've also had a faulty starter relay which caused an open short in the starter circuit and made a very angry buzzing sound.

So could be an issue with your glow relay too. I would test things (see FSM) before buying new parts for everything that coud be wrong. That said, a pare set of alternator brushes is something that should be present IMO in a good set of spares.
The relay is rhythmically clicking every 10 seconds or so while running. You can physically feel it. I’ve never had a 24v, but the glow plug indicator light only burns for a second or so before cranking. Not sure if that info amounts to anything. I checked my connection at the plugs and everything is back the way it should be.

I did buy the brushes and regulator as those were cheap insurance regardless.

Started pulling the alternator, so maybe I’ll put it back and crank it with the glow plug circuit disconnected.
 
On another note, any decent instruction on wiring a Wilson switch on a 24v 1HZ?
 
Started it yet again and checked alternator again. Now, it reading around 19v and skipping around. I order a brush and new voltage regulator to see if that remedies the issue.

Maybe related or not; the glow plug relay is clicking every ten seconds while running.
If you switch the meter onto AC then you might find that you've got a significant non-DC component caused by a blown rectifier-regulator.

A continual load from a bad glow system will also kill your battery pretty fast - take a look at your glow wiring - easy enough to disconnect the bus bar from the glow plugs
 
Hoping this is contributing to my issue. Never seen so much corrosion. Very nasty. The brushes are as worn down as they can get.

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The brushes look like they have reached the end of their useful life. How are the slip rings on the alternator rotor?

The regulator looks fine, the corrosion on the heatsink is nothing; the rust on the soldered contacts is superficial. I don't think those solid state regulators commonly wear out - the old relay-type external regulators were more usceptible to corrosion.

Good work!
 
Brushes have no spring left in their step and I’m hoping this is the culprit. Lights did go out for one startup so hoping these brushes caught their last groove so to speak.

Slip rings look fine.

I did get a new VR as it wasn’t too bad on price, but good to know that the corrosion is most likely not a deal breaker.
 
The corrosion won't help keep it cool in a very hot case, but otherwise yea - may as well change it while it's off.
Fingers crossed that's your problem
 

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