Checking the solenoids on Warn Winch 8074

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REZARF

REZARF

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Howdy, I have basically a 8274 Warn winch that is pre free spool clutch, which makes it an 8074. I have contacted warn as it stopped working late last season. I have determined by jumping and bypassing the solenoids that the motor is fine and operates as it should.

I have a question though, how do you check the solenoids? Here is what I know so far:The motor works fine when bypassing the solenoid pack. When I engage the winch via the remote, I hear a loud click/clack like normal, but nothing happens. Not in spooling the cable in our out.

So how do I go about check to see if one or more of the solenoids are bad. Please please use basic language here, as I am not too "smert with dis stuffs." ;)

I am assuming, that I am going to try to find out where the power is not getting through the solenoid?

Thanks in advance mud!

Drew
 
Disconnect the BIG wires from each solenoid one at a time. Tape the ends to prevent any accidents. Use the remote to make the solenoids go click. Feel which one goes click. Use an Ohm meter to measure across the BIG terminals of that solenoid. Anything other than 0-1 Ohms and the contacts in the solenoid are bad. Repeat for the other solenoids.

A solenoid is nothing but a special kind of relay with one set of contacts that can handle high current. It has a trigger coil (the small terminal(s) and the contacts (the two big terminals).
 
Replace all four and forget about it, or, replace one now, and then another one later, and then another one later and so on....


:meh:



The 8074 winch, which is still a 8-thousand pound, 2-way power (in/out) winch based on the design that Warn first introduced in 1974, that does not have a free-spool option was originally manufactured for AMC as a factory option on Jeep vehicles.



:beer:



Also,


Starter solenoids, while they may look and act the same, are not continuous-duty rated and can weld themselves together creating all sorts of drama when you cannot stop your winch from drawing cable in around the drum.

I have seen this happen on more than one occasion. :eek:
 
Last edited:
Coolerman said:
Disconnect the BIG wires from each solenoid one at a time. Tape the ends to prevent any accidents. Use the remote to make the solenoids go click. Feel which one goes click. Use an Ohm meter to measure across the BIG terminals of that solenoid. Anything other than 0-1 Ohms and the contacts in the solenoid are bad. Repeat for the other solenoids.

A solenoid is nothing but a special kind of relay with one set of contacts that can handle high current. It has a trigger coil (the small terminal(s) and the contacts (the two big terminals).
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will start here and see if I can address the problem. I appreciate it coolerman.

Poser said:
Replace all four and forget about it, or, replace one now, and then another one later, and then another one later and so on....


:meh:



The 8074 winch, which is still a 8-thousand pound, 2-way power (in/out) winch based on the design that Warn first introduced in 1974, that does not have a free-spool option was originally manufactured for AMC as a factory option on Jeep vehicles.



:beer:



Also,


Starter solenoids, while they may look and act the same, are not continuous-duty rated and can weld themselves together creating all sorts of drama when you cannot stop your winch from drawing cable in around the drum.

I have seen this happen on more than one occasion. :eek:
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve, I knew that this is the most likely fix for me... just replace and have the peace of mind that when I need my winch it will fire. I appreciate bud.
 
Coolerman said:
Disconnect the BIG wires from each solenoid one at a time. Tape the ends to prevent any accidents. Use the remote to make the solenoids go click. Feel which one goes click. Use an Ohm meter to measure across the BIG terminals of that solenoid. Anything other than 0-1 Ohms and the contacts in the solenoid are bad. Repeat for the other solenoids.

A solenoid is nothing but a special kind of relay with one set of contacts that can handle high current. It has a trigger coil (the small terminal(s) and the contacts (the two big terminals).
Click to expand...

I did this without removing the large wires... perhaps that is a necessity. I only had a few minutes to mess with it today.

In a criss-cross pattern I am getting full power across the soleniods. The ohms checked out one. Each running about .3-.6 ohms.

The ground is good and I am getting good conductivity through the chassis ground and power cables.

I am scratching my head still.
 
You need to isolate each solenoid from the others or your readings won't mean anything. Especially if you had battery voltage on the terminals while measuring. ;) Since you will more than likely have to replace the relay pack anyway, draw a diagram of how they are connected and pull them one at a time to check them.

Step 1: Secure the solenoid so it doesn't jump around when activated. Activate the solenoid by applying +12V to one small terminal and ground to the case of the solenoid. A loud click should occur. No click or weak click (compare it to the others)? Solenoid coil bad or contacts are fused together. Throw it away.


Step 2: Determine what your meter lead resistance is: NOTE: You need at least .1 ohm resolution on your meter in order to measure contact resistance with any accuracy.

To see what your lead resistance is, short the red and black leads together and take a reading. Write this down.

Example: My Fluke 87 reads .3 ohms when shorted. (If your meter has the ability, you can zero out the resistance and read the contact resistance directly.)

Step 3: Now measure across the solenoid contacts with the solenoid activated. It may read like .4 ohms. The true contact resistance will be the just measured solenoid contact reading minus the lead resistance you wrote down. Example: Leads shorted gives .3 ohms. Contact reading is .4 ohms. The true contact resistance is .4 -.3 = .1 ohms. Anything higher than .1 -.2 ohms is too much.

Some other good reading: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Q&A1/Q&A1_signed.pdf
 
Coolerman said:
Since you will more than likely have to replace the relay pack anyway
Click to expand...




If this ends up being the case, Warn does not offer solenoids for the older style winch control, which will require you to upgrade to the new style five wire set up and five wire controller.


:meh:
 
Thanks guys this is great! I can go a little further into the mess now. I will isolate each one and go from there. I may end up buying a new control pack off the bay.

CruisinGA- What's the good word!?

To hell with Georgia! :D

GT Alumni- spring of '99
 
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