Checking Out an 84 FJ60

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Jun 16, 2015
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Hello, I'm in the market for my first Cruiser and have come across one for sale in the Arlington area. I'd like to either get it inspected in the area by a knowledgable shop, or have one of you knowledgable club members review it for me. I've contacted Iron Pig, but they'd need the truck taken all the way to Fredericksburg. Would anyone be willing to help? Thanks a bunch.
 
I found the CL ad. The price is dead on for the median sale price for our area according to NADA. You need to look for rust, rust, and more rust. With nearly 200k on the truck you are going to have to deal with normal wear items that have yet to be replaced. So look for any leaks. They just replaced the clutch slave, if they didn't also recently replace the master, you will be doing that.

If you are not a DIY kind of person, or have the money to pay someone to repair the truck, you probably won't be a happy owner.
 
Thanks, John. I appreciate the help. The truck's exterior was recently repainted, though there were spots on the truck, particularly above the rear wheel wells, where the paint is bubbling a bit from rust beneath. For me it is hard to know what's to be expected, and what's beyond help. Also, during the test drive, I found that the transmission was a bit difficult to engage. First gear was hard to engage/find, as was reverse, but 2nd/3rd/4th were easy. Is this an alignment issue? Anyways, this is why I'd like to get some second opinions.
 
Come by the meeting this Wednesday. There's usually a few 60s in attendance for you to take a look at and compare. You can chat up the owners a bit too.
 
Thanks, John. I appreciate the help. The truck's exterior was recently repainted, though there were spots on the truck, particularly above the rear wheel wells, where the paint is bubbling a bit from rust beneath. For me it is hard to know what's to be expected, and what's beyond help. Also, during the test drive, I found that the transmission was a bit difficult to engage. First gear was hard to engage/find, as was reverse, but 2nd/3rd/4th were easy. Is this an alignment issue? Anyways, this is why I'd like to get some second opinions.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong. (I might be thinking sm465) 1st and reverse has no synchro in them making them a little more time to engage.

2x what Jonh said!
But don't be intimidated there is a lot of knowledge and help here on this forum.
 
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Yes, Make time to come out to our meeting at Kilroy's this weekend. If you can make it out Wed, I can make some time Friday afternoon to check out the truck with you, or independently, if you can arrange it with the owner.
Full disclosure: I am not a mechanic, but have spent a lot of time around cruisers, owned a few and did a frame off on mine... (check out my ROTW in my sig line) and a few modifications. I know what to look for as far as the typical trouble spots on an FJ60 and the 2F engine.

If we can work it out, we may even be able to do a compression check to check the health of the engine.

Cheers,
Stump
 
Everybody thanks for all the help and wisdom. I'm all the way in Charlottesville, so stopping into a meeting is harder for me to do. But I'd like to come to Kilroy's sometime if I can manage it, especially if I go for this truck.

Stump, I might take you up on the offer if you're willing to take a look at it. I will PM you.

Any more wisdom on the transmission shifting issue? Thanks guys.
 
Thanks, John. I appreciate the help. The truck's exterior was recently repainted, though there were spots on the truck, particularly above the rear wheel wells, where the paint is bubbling a bit from rust beneath. For me it is hard to know what's to be expected, and what's beyond help. Also, during the test drive, I found that the transmission was a bit difficult to engage. First gear was hard to engage/find, as was reverse, but 2nd/3rd/4th were easy. Is this an alignment issue? Anyways, this is why I'd like to get some second opinions.

I would walk away from this truck.

Painting a truck without first cutting out and repairing the rust is a complete waste; unless your plan is to flip the truck. Rust in the wheel wells is typical on 60s. There is a LOT of rust you can't see behind that paint. Wheel wells are not an easy rust repair compared to flat sheet metal like a FJ40. My hunch is the first gear synchro is gone on the tranny. They put a new slave in, thinking that would resolve the issue, it won't, as you found out. Reverse will always grind unless you first put it in first, as it has no synchro. That is normal. Difficulty going into first is NOT normal.

These two issues would cause me to walk away from someone asking 10K firm for this truck. I know FJ60s are now highly desirable, but that is not a 10K truck IMHO. If you decide to buy it, don't be surprised if you need to put a new transmission in it and have the wheel wells rust through in a short while.
 
We all look forward to your report.

John,
I suspect your observations will be confirmed, but it is worth setting eyes on the truck, if for no other reason than to inform others of its condition.
 
My overall impression of the truck is that it is an old FJ60 with decent bones that needs some love.
The PS pump and gearbox are leaking, the side cover, valve cover, timing cover, crank seal, rear main seal, t-case and pinion seals are leaking and need to be replaced. The emissions vac hoses are misrouted in places, (i.e. the PCV T hose is connected wrong), disconnected in others and the HAC connections and one of the thermostat mounted BSVs are snapped off as is the intake vacuum connection on the intake.
The engine runs surprisingly smooth and quite with no exhaust , valve train or pinging/knocking noises.
The owner admits it is hit and miss with needing choke to keep it running. It started 1st time and ran well for me. He got there after me, so engine was cold and not "prepped" to start right up. I suspect the vacuum hoses are at least partially to blame here. Though, the carb is likely due for a rebuild as well.
The transmission is the stock H42, and there is a significant issue getting it into 1st and reverse. There is no grinding, but you really have to jiggle and force it and hit it just right to find 1st.
The clutch also let's out way too late. It doesn't slip, but it should be replaced. The master and slaves are relatively new and the fluid is clean. The brakes worked well.
The knuckles need a rebuild as well, as gear oil can be seen in the grease on the outside of the knuckles. It isn't running down the tires... yet. The spring and shackle bushings are worn as well. The shocks are acceptable but will need replacing soon too.
Overall, this would be a good project rig, but needs a few grand in parts and body work.
The roof line is rust free with some dents on the roof.
The driver's side rear 1/4 looks like it was hit and poorly repaired as evidenced by the fist sized hole behind the tire with metal mesh visible and the bondo that almost follows the lower body line. The rear bumper is also ever so slightly pushed in from the side. The rear lower hatch is decent with very little rust showing, bit it is severely dented on the inside. The pics of the frame, wheel wells and the lower rear 1/4s speak for themselves. The frame is 90% with the exception of the rust between the frame and inner support shown in the pics. The doors are very good with only a little rust starting on the rear passenger door.
Rugs and seat upolstery is good as is the headliner, which just needs a good cleaning.
 

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