Chasing evap codes (1 Viewer)

[BigMaineWomen]

2004 LX with 212K. Half the time on start up the RPM will dip down to 3-400. Occasionally it will go lower and stall out. When this happens I will get a gas smell in the cabin immediately.

My codes are included from Torque. I've replaced the gas cap with a Toyota cap with no improvement. Last week I replaced the original Denso 25860-50100 evap vacuum switching valve under the hood with Dorman 911-488. I thought it helped. Codes actually went away. Then rpm dip and same exact codes came back a few days later. Does this sound like my Dorman valve went bad in a few days? I've had good luck with Dorman in the past should I pay double for the Denso? Does it sound/look like something else from the codes?

Thank you I've been scratching my head on this one for a while and I hate throwing parts at a car.

 

[BigMaineWomen]

Stalled out on me again yesterday. I think it tends to do it more often when warm. Did not get the gasoline smell in the cabin this time. Any ideas?

 

[BigMaineWomen]

I havent been recording numbers but it absolutely happens more often when the car is warm/hot. I've looked hard at some other threads. There were apparently some problems with the 80 series VSV not operating when hot. According to the FSM, the VSV on the engine and cannister are supposed to have 30-36 ohm resistance between terminals. When hot, the one on the engine was 38.5. It came down to 36 when cool but I'm leaving a new Dorman replacement in its place. The one on the cannister read 33.5 and the engine bay not on the engine is supposed to rear 24-30 and it read 28 after I finished driving. No continuity with body on any of them. Applied voltage to the two in the engine bay and they work as intended. Will apply voltage to cannister one at a later date.

While i was checking the resistance on the cannister i looked over all of the hoses. A few of them need clamps as the old ones have rotted off but hoses are tight and in good shape.

I believe i have read it isnt replaceable on its own but can anyone confirm if the cannister VSV is compatible with the "on engine" VSV? I think the one i pulled works correctly when it isnt hot so i could always swap them and just let the replacement dangle there, as long as they are plug n play. Or i will try to get voltage to it directly later this week and see if it clicks as it switches.

 

[BigMaineWomen]

Well it's been about two weeks since I put the second new Dorman on the engine and I haven't had any stalls or significant dips. Regardless I did rest the function of the canister vsv today and it loudly clicked with 12v. Cleared codes and i will report back if they return. Hopefully this is behind me!

 

[BigMaineWomen]

Should have kept my mouth shut. Stopped on the way home for work yesterday and when I went to start back up 15 minutes later, it stalled out. I'll check the new engine vsv resistance when hot and see where that is. Frustrating.

 

[Chrisek]

Find anything?

 

[BigMaineWomen]

My gas tank is leaking at the seam. I don't know that it's related because its only been leeaking for a couple months, but the issue on this thread is over a year now. I am hoping to get the tank replaced next week and I'll get back in to this.

 

[BigMaineWomen]

Replaced the tank a couple of weeks ago. Codes cleared from unplugging the battery and have not returned. I think there was more to this than one problem, but multiple overlapping issues make it hard to know where to point the finger. Now on to exhaust leak repairs...