Charging a third 12v battery from 24v?

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...........With the BDC600 there may well be some slight draw as it sits there waiting for the voltage to go above the present minimum required to turn the charger on

I'm talking about the BCD600 or any other power supply left connected to the 24 volt supply.

I'm not sure what bit you are missing, if at all, so I'll post a bit more, we are possibly on the same channel......not sure.

With the BCD600, (or any other 24 to 12 volt power supply or battery charger), they are designed to output a set voltage and/or current, and may have 1,2 or 3 stages which vary the voltage and/or current.
Forgetting the stages, (the stages are basically constant current until a set voltage is reached, then constant voltage with variable current depending on load) the main thing they do is output a voltage which is high enough to charge a battery or maintain a certain voltage. Lets say that voltage is 13.8 volts.
This is enough to constantly float charge a battery, therefore " AT ALL TIMES" the charger is connected to the 12 volt battery it will be charging (24/7), UNLESS it has reduced the 24 volt supply batteries down to 19 volts (BCD600), which in anyone's terms is FLAT.
It will also be supplying any load connected to the 12 volt battery at all times that it is connected. On top of this it also has a 10% inefficiency , so what ever current that is required to float charge the battery (constant voltage applied) an additional 10% is used. However, the efficiency of these and other units are not linear to output, at lower outputs the efficiency usually falls away quickly. (If you need a 300 watt inverter, don't buy a 600 watt one and run it at half load as you will waste energy due to the lower efficiency at reduced rated output)
The BCD600 will eventually TOTALLY DISCHARGE your 24 volt batteries if it is not disconnected, the rate of discharge is determined by the load which consists of devices hooked up to the battery plus the constant float charge going into the 12 volt battery. (This could be 0.5 amps 24/7. This ids determined by the electrical/chemical characteristics of the particular battery) This will happen unless the 24v batteries are being topped up by the alternator.
To stop this happening a VSR of some sort (or other method) is required to disconnect the BD600 from the 24 volt supply.
TLC Norway wants to use a VSR instead of an IGN keyed relay or a manual switch, because he may forget to flick the manual switch, and he doesn't want it connected and charging when the IGN is on and the engine is not running. If he was happy with a IGN keyed relay than that would effectively isolate the power supply when the IGN was not ON, and it wouldn't drain the batteries. (Unless IGN was left on)
There is nothing wrong with a BCD600 or his power supply, they both work in a similar fashion and will both discharge the 24 volt battery system to dead flat unless he implements a system to disconnect them from the 24 volt supply.

Please be clear, the BCD600 does not have anything in built to stop it totally discharging a set of 24 volt batteries UNLESS it is effectively disconnected from the 24 volt supply.
 
Which is why I went with the one I posted. No parasitic draw when the ignition is off. No external switches required, like Greg stated, only draw is on the 12V side. The way I look at there would be a draw there regardless i.e. battery hot on the stereo, car alarm etc...
 
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Jeff
 
Canuksafari,
Just another way to skin this mule- thought I would alert readers of this thread of a steal. I bet people looking to add a secondary battery are looking at this thread, especially those of us w/ 24v trucks!
Jeff

PS: truck is back and running great after the main seal replacement, even got parts from Canadia!
 
you quite possibly wouldn't need it. Is your unit adj? It really is better to charge closer to 14.4V if you can.
 
No I don't think it can be adjusted. It is an SDC 23 converter that outputs "LOAD +12VDC NOMINAL(13.8V)".

I just checked and found that the manual (http://www.samlexamerica.com/customer_support/pdf/Manuals/SDC-23_Manual_Dec2007.pdf)does caution not to use it as a charger and it does have overvoltage protection on the output side: "Over Voltage on the Output Side: If the output voltage increases beyond 16.5 V +/-0.5 V, a crowbar circuit will activate and blow the input side fuse."

Perhaps it is best just to buy the charge controller for peace of mind. :meh:
 
I went into Polar Battery in Vancouver today. These guys are pros when it comes to solar power systems and auto power systems.

Two things:

1) Yes, I can use the voltage reducer to charge a third battery without a charge controller. With a voltage output of only 13.8V, they said it will never overcharge the battery.

2) However, with a voltage output of only 13.8V, he said it will never fully charge the battery.

The only options to fully charge the battery is to either use an AC Charger and plug the third battery in every night or to have it hooked to a power source that produces 14.2V, such as an alternator or solar panel.

I 'm thinking that I could also use my 24V AC inverter while driving connected to the electronic battery charge. I'm not sure if this will work as my inverter may not produce enough watts for the charger to work.
 
I just replaced all my wiring with marine grade and went with Bluesea fuse blocks. Very nice products.

Good to know on no need for the charge controller for the lower voltage. I decided to install a new 30 amp unit with digital display so that I know what's going on with my third battery. My 7 amp unit had some warping do to heat issues through a trio of diodes on the circuit board.

As an aside, the blue top optima s*** the bed after 4 years of abuse. Looking at a DEKA Intimidator as a replacement.
 
I just replaced all my wiring with marine grade and went with Bluesea fuse blocks. Very nice products.

Good to know on no need for the charge controller for the lower voltage. I decided to install a new 30 amp unit with digital display so that I know what's going on with my third battery. My 7 amp unit had some warping do to heat issues through a trio of diodes on the circuit board.

As an aside, the blue top optima s*** the bed after 4 years of abuse. Looking at a DEKA Intimidator as a replacement.

Brad, are you adjusting the converter output to what the recommended max charge is for your 3rd battery, and then letting the charge controller manage it from there?

gb
 
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That's exactly my plan. I believe the charge converter shuts down when the battery hits 14.1 so my plan is to give it 14.8 on the converter. My battery guy figures it was the lower voltage that killed the blue top.

edited: wrong info
 
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This is all good to know - I guess I'm not hitting mine with enough voltage either.

edit - the Gel Tech deep cycle I have only calls for 13.8 - 14.1V.
 
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Norm, you're right. I screwed that up and have it backwards... My charge controller has a gel vs acid battery setting.

14.1V for the gel

14.5V for the acid

and float mode is at 13.4V

I also noted that it specs a normal operating input of 17V-22V

Does anybody know if it "less" work for a solar converter to only down convert to 18-20V?? I haven't tried turning it up that far but it's worth a shot if the controller likes to see higher voltages.
 
Brad, I've no idea. Or even the range of the POT inside the unit, which if not large might be a limiting factor. We haven't retailed their product in a while, however they've always seemed helpful via email or phone; So give them a shout and see.

gb
 
The Solar converter runs up to 22V didn't want to go any higher. I set it back down to 17V and the charge controller seems to be happy putting out a constant 14.1 on full charge.

I will send an email to solar converter to see if there is any issue with the 17V output.
 
That's good to know. So, I could then get a full charge with a constant 13.8V on the Gel Tech.

The Polar guys highly recommended the Gel Tech when I explained what I was doing.
I believe Deny has had one in his BJ42 for 5 years or so, charged straight from his Solar converter with no problems so far (that I know of...)

Still be a good question for the Polar guys.
 
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