change axle seals?

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You will have to pull the axle shafts out anyway so I'd rebuild the knuckles and put all new seals in, unless it was done recently. Seals are relatively cheap compared to the amount of time you'll spend putting the diffs in.

Dave
 
No special tools if you're only doing seals. You might need the centering tool if you change the trunnion bearings but I've done mine without the tool and just kept the original shims in the same locations and so far all is well. I'd check the trunnion bearings while you're at it as mine were showing signs of corrosion, even with the grease and oil in there.
Have patience with the cone washers and reinstall them with anti-seize to make life easier next time.
 
John,

You may need a 1 1/8" socket for the big axle nut, a pair of snap ring pliers for the locking hub c-clip and a brass drift* to get the cone washers out of the hub and steering knuckle studs. Not very specialized tools, but every cruiserhead should have these... :)

* or a small screwdriver to do what the FSM tells you to do with the cone washers. I've always wanted to try this at home.

Dave
 
Dave,

That axle nut is more like 2 1/8" My SST for the axle nut says 52 or 54mm on it.
 
cruiser_guy said:
Dave,

That axle nut is more like 2 1/8" My SST for the axle nut says 52 or 54mm on it.

You are right. Memory malfunction, ahem :)

Dave
 
2 1/8" was all I could find at Sears. Fits perfectly.

Dave
 
2 1/8" is 54 mm. buy a snap on one. my socket was under 35 CAD. and was nice thin walled socket, designed for hubs.
 
jzilla said:
So I got two seals for the rear, one for each side. That is it right?
How long can you leave the bearings in without replacing? (The rear ones)
john

Semifloaters? Yes, two seals.

The SF bearings can last a long time if the diff fluid is kept where it's supposed to. Just inspect it for play or wear.

Dave
 

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