Carpet is out, any PM during?

[swankstar]

Just wondering if there are good things to take care of this afternoon while the cab is empty? Thanks!

I'm going to be running some wires but can't thing if anything else.

 

[Red Merle]

Check your fuel pump assembly. Pull the rear heater if you deleted it. Check all the door jambs for spots that have been worn and touch up the paint if you need to. Plan for any wiring you may want in the back.

 

[gummycarbs]

Check the wiring terminals for corrosion, maybe apply some dielectric grease.

My interior is stripped, too, and every terminal was absolutely pristine. But maybe yours has been exposed to more moisture than mine...

Clean the seatbelt pockets and add Teflon silicone tape to the top of the trim panel and the tongue slider where the belt goes through. It makes the seatbelt retract better.

 

[BILT4ME]

remove the headliner and sunroof to plug all roof holes and rebuild or replace the sunroof, clean the sunroof drains.

Paint the interior, install 3 layers of sound deadener, install wires for a new stereo, refrigerator, air compressor, remove the trailer wiring harness and replace with a new one, install a new head unit, subwoofer, WirtsEnd Doodads, interior compressor panel, fire extinguisher mount, gub lock box, remove the factory alarm, new carpet, new seats, and lastly......some color other than BURGUNDY.

 

[orttauq]

....some color other than BURGUNDY.

Here we go again......

 

[gummycarbs]

Some other thoughts:

Check for any rust in the depressions under the 3rd row seat latch bars. The floor pan has a bunch of holes, some plugged with plastic, others with a disc. Some seem to be for possible drainage, and others are access holes for bolt heads. I put Noico sound deadening over all of them. Plus, on my rig, there were two completely open holes: one by the driver's left foot, and the other behind the left, rear wheel well. I have no idea if those were supposed to be uncovered, but mine were.

And the single biggest improvement from sound deadening so far has been the recessed pocket on the right side of the passenger foot well. It's a super tinny panel that seems to echo racket from the exhaust and catalytic converters.

 

[swankstar]

Thanks for the detailed info @gummycarbs, much appreciated. I ended up not really taking care of much. I REPLACED the carpet and headliner though, and am no longer concerned with access. I replaced the headliner with the one piece foamy cardboard thing from a later model FZJ. That thing makes getting to the ceiling EASY. I saw the fuel cover deal, but didn't have time to read up on how to R&R. Damn winter hours. Everything did look very good though, so I'm pretty stoked.

 

[swankstar]

remove the headliner and sunroof to plug all roof holes and rebuild or replace the sunroof, clean the sunroof drains.

Paint the interior, install 3 layers of sound deadener, install wires for a new stereo, refrigerator, air compressor, remove the trailer wiring harness and replace with a new one, install a new head unit, subwoofer, WirtsEnd Doodads, interior compressor panel, fire extinguisher mount, gub lock box, remove the factory alarm, new carpet, new seats

Removed and replaced the headliner.
Would like to somehow deactivate the sunroof and positively seal it.
No need to paint interior, gradually replacing everything with new grey stuff all around, only thing left is the dash and shifter console
I would install sound deadener if I could afford that stuff!
Stereo stuff is already installed.
No fridge
No trailer
I like the WitsEnd stuff, but I am building my own stuff
No alarm
Only one seat left to replace
Put new carpet in today
FJs came with alarms??
Wuts a gub?

 

[BILT4ME]

Removed and replaced the headliner.
Would like to somehow deactivate the sunroof and positively seal it.
No need to paint interior, gradually replacing everything with new grey stuff all around, only thing left is the dash and shifter console
I would install sound deadener if I could afford that stuff!
Stereo stuff is already installed.
No fridge
No trailer
I like the WitsEnd stuff, but I am building my own stuff
No alarm
Only one seat left to replace
Put new carpet in today
FJs came with alarms??
Wuts a gub?

Some had port installed alarms. Probably 96 and newer more than 94.
Gub = gun. I don't know why, but many here post it that way, I guess for censorship reasons......

Sunroof: I have a neighbor that used a couple versions of roofing caulk and silicone caulk to seal his sunroof glass.

Some others have actually removed it and welded in a roof panel, thus completely eliminating it.

Personally, I like mine, I just wish it didn't leak so damn bad!.

 

[swankstar]

Ah, yes, I like gubs. I'm making myself a new center console that will handle that.

Mines a 91, so no alarm. BUT, I did grab the Toyota SECURITY dash insert and my wife is going to make me a little circuit to make it flash when doors are locked. Best of both worlds.

I just don't like the leaks. That's why I replaced the headliner today, it was moldy from previous owner. The drain had been plugged for who knows how long. And it still doesn't tilt all the way up. I haven't been able to trouble shoot that one. I've compared to 4 other FJs I've found and mine moves up and down way more than the other ones.

 

[gummycarbs]

I replaced the headliner with the one piece foamy cardboard thing from a later model FZJ. That thing makes getting to the ceiling EASY.View attachment 1555750

Whoa, I think that's notable. You definitely can confirm that a 95+ one-piece headliner can go into a 91 - 94 rig? I've seen it mentioned on 'Mud as a possibility, but I don't think I've come across solid verification.

With regards to sealing the sunroof, there are two plastic trim pieces at the front corners that were changed post-94, I think. On my 94, I added a ridge using RTV silicone, plus I sealed the bottom of the corner pieces. Since the last rain storm, I don't have any more leaking from the sunroof.

 

[swankstar]

Whoa, I think that's notable. You definitely can confirm that a 95+ one-piece headliner can go into a 91 - 94 rig? I've seen it mentioned on 'Mud as a possibility, but I don't think I've come across solid verification.

With regards to sealing the sunroof, there are two plastic trim pieces at the front corners that were changed post-94, I think. On my 94, I added a ridge using RTV silicone, plus I sealed the bottom of the corner pieces. Since the last rain storm, I don't have any more leaking from the sunroof.

You didn't happen to take any pics of that mod did you? Will the later model sunroof go in mine? Might be a better solution since mine is of questionable shape anyway.

Nobody has done that yet?? I guess ignorance is bliss. Ya, it's in there. There are definitely some issues. I'll take pics tomorrow (just tried but not working in the low light).

From memory from this afternoon:

1. The three little plastic plugs that go across the back, right by the rear hatch are too small for the holes in the 92.

2. The rear dope light doesn't line up. All I see is insulation. It's too far back I think??

3. The rear upper speaker HOLDERS were in the way.

4. My shelf brackets need to be adjusted to fit this headliner it seems.

5. I also got all the pillar covers:
5a. The passenger A pillar cover isn't long enough. About a 1.25" gap on the short point if that makes sense?
5b. I had to break 2 of the retainer tabs off the C pillar. The other one went in a round hole so I didn't remove, just in case.
5c. Had to break a couple tabs off the D pillar (I guess that's what it would be? The rear corners).
5d. The front seat belts are going to be the toughest. I have a plan of attack for them though. Will involve a smallish holesaw so I can get an appropriately sized nut and washer behind the sheetmetal. BUT I WILL HAVE HEIGHT ADJUSTABLE BELTS dangit.

6. Going to have to redo my rear cargo light. Might extend wires and do one on each side instead though. Replacing the D pillars seems better than replacing headliner (in case of mistakes).

7. It looks awesome and I'm very happy with the swap.

 

[gummycarbs]

You didn't happen to take any pics of that mod did you?

No, but let's see if I can find some posts about it:

Rain leak into cabin

Leaking Sunroof - Major Frustration

Rear sunroof drain cleaning

The keyword seems to be "warped". The plastic covers warp with age. On mine, I removed the plastic caps, cleaned them, then applied some sealant along the bottom edge, put them back and screwed them down, then made a ridge using more sealant. I let it dry overnight with the sunroof cracked. I haven't had another leak since, but the real rain hasn't started yet.

Will the later model sunroof go in mine? Might be a better solution since mine is of questionable shape anyway.

No idea, but I'd be surprised if the sunroof was changed substantially. From everything I've read, though, leaks are caused by clogged drain lines or warped plastic covers on the front left & right corners.

Nobody has done that yet?? I guess ignorance is bliss. Ya, it's in there. There are definitely some issues. I'll take pics tomorrow (just tried but not working in the low light).

I think people have done it, but nobody replied with clear confirmation in any of the threads I saw. I was curious since the smokers who owned my '94 before left some marks on the headliner, plus I burned some holes when removing the roof rack and welding up the holes!

Also, the 95+ headliner is still available from Toyota, but the 94 and earlier is discontinued. So, it's good to have definite confirmation that it can be retrofitted.

 

[Malleus]

The sunroofs are different; the mounting bolts are the problem.

The sunroof drain is a design failure; the only one I can point to on the entire truck. There are too many design points which all have to be within spec, or the system fails. Spectacularly.

There a a couple of points to look at, if you have a couple of weeks to chase them down. It takes this long, because you have to flood the sunroof drains to verify that you've found the root cause, and that takes time. Here goes:
1. The entire sunroof drain system is designed to channel water into the drains, not to exclude it from the sunroof using a waterproof seal. Toyota evidently looked at the problem and took a statistical approach to the solution. Even a 100% waterproof seal will eventually leak, so why not deal with the leak in the design? I can't say I disagree with the approach, but the execution is, well, I won't share those thoughts.
2. The glass gasket (seal) is supposed to restrict the volume of water which can flow into the drain system, so that it's never more than the downtubes can discharge. The problem here is that the drains are gravity fed, and the tubes have air in them. This means that any time the column of air reaches a sufficient length to approximate the ambient air pressure, the system will not drain and the downtubes will fill. This is why the sunroof leaks.
3. There are two design features which "help" to ensure that the seal excludes the ingress of water so that the air columns can't support the water:
a) there is a thin solid rubber strip at each corner (sorry, I don't have photos at the moment, but I'll post them later) which is intended to force the glass gasket to expand when the sunroof is closed. This strip has to be there or the seal will fail.
b) as @gummycarbs mentioned, there are plastic corner trim pieces, only at the front corners of the sunroof pan, which are supposed to act as dams to channel the water into the drain inlets. The later designs included a lip to help this happen. This was a design bandaid from Mr. T and it didn't address the root cause (I'm getting to that).
4. The downtubes can slip off the nipples at the sunroof pan, most likely due to overenthusiastic cleaning with either compressed air or a snake. The only way to see if this is your problem is to drop the headliner. This can happen to either the front or rear.
5. The lower ends of the (front) downtubes are routed into the pockets in the kickpanels. This is where the root cause of the system failure lies. The discharge points (drains) are actually not in these pockets, but are in the rocker panels, which are separate sheetmetal body parts. In order for the water from the downtubes to get into the rocker panels to exit via the discharge points, this kickpanel pocket has to fill up and overflow into the rocker panels.
6. There are four or five (can't remember which) small plugs in the lower surface (horizontal, not vertical, those big ones are cleanouts) which can be removed to drain any excess water from the rocker panels which hasn't found its way out.

Some owners remove the plugs when the drains (which are formed by a crease in the inner sheetmetal before the inner and outer panels are glued together) become clogged. IMHO, this only makes a bad situation worse.

The problem is not only that the kickpanel pocket has to fill up (by the way, have you noticed how much wiring is in there?) and overflow in the rocker panel, but any dirt that gets into the footwells will find its way into the rocker panel void and plug the sunroof drains. There is no way to clean the rocker panel drain area effectively. Yes, you can run a bottle brush in there, but you can't clean it all and you'll remove some paint which will leave an unpainted sheetmetal panel open to constant water exposure. Not a good plan, IMHO.

The only practical solution, not mine but I agree with it 100%, is to remove one of the two sheetmetal screws (the rearmost one, you don't need both of them) inside the pocket and route the drain downtubes into the hole. This guarantees that any water which gets into the downtube will drain out. No air column can form in this modification and the hole can be sealed around the exit point of the tube. Further, this mod ensures that the rocker panels can't rust out, since there's never any water in them.

I'm working on this mod on one of mine now and will post the write up with photos soon. It's under cover in the dry garage until I'm finished.

 

[swankstar]

Oh wow, that is some awesome info, thank you. I am definitely interested in your write up. If you remember, could you comment here directing me towards it when you do so I don't miss it?

 

[Malleus]

Yeah, I'm putting together a fan publication list

 

[swankstar]

Here are some pics of the installed headliner to go along with above notes:

General pic:

As mentioned, haven't dealt with front seat belts yet so B pillar doesn't fit:

Sorry for the filter, but ceiling was totally black without. Haven't put visors or controls in yet but there are zero issues there. You can see the gap on bottom of passenger A pillar here:

Better view here:

Driver side no issues:

 

[swankstar]

More pics

Passenger C pillar, driver is just as nice:

Two random holes. I don't remember popping plastic discs from these. Doesn't seem to be anything for them to go in to?? Also, the rear dope light can be seen here, or at least the hole for it. Nothing but insulation visible

Forward dope light is no issues:

Both rear panels look great (here you can see a missing speaker cover. This is from me thinking it had to come off first when removing, but I was mistaken. Comes off with lid!!) :

 

[swankstar]

Here are the holes at the very rear (there are 3 total). The little plastic discs from the 96 are too small of a "thread" to fit the holes in my 92. Maybe there are different discs available? I'll probably just hang some Cheech/Chong balls from up there or something:

View from the back:

These are the holes in my 92. Don't know if 93/94 would be the same? From top to bottom:
1. Small unthreaded hole (covered by foam here)
2. Small threaded hole (used for backseat curved handle)
3. Large threaded hole (for 92 seatbelt)
4. Another large threaded hole (unused in 92?)
5. Unthreaded hole off to the side, unused I believe
6. Large unthreaded hole

Hard to see what's going on here, sorry. Hole 1 will be used for alignment tab in new adjuster assembly

Hole 2 will need to be retapped or fish a large washer/nut combo up there

Hole 6 will need a large washer/nut behind it.

My plan is to 1" or 1.5" holesaw an access hole about 2" below hole 6. This will allow me to fish said washer/nut combos behind the sheetmetal. I will then put small welds to hold in place so I can tighten everything up.

If welding isn't your bag, you could just leave the stock headliner on that section pretty easy (just cutting above where the lid intersects) and retain the old glued piece. This would certainly work on the passenger A pillar too.

 

[swankstar]

@gummycarbs i went to junkyard today and looked at 94 B pillar. Same as my 92. As in lack of proper attachment points for seatbelt.