Carburetor ID help (2 Viewers)

[antiquecollector5]

Hello,
My FJ40 I am trying to build starts right up and runs fine at idle. However, when any load is placed on it, and the engine rpm increase, I get pretty bad hesitation and loud backfiring.
Cleaned carb (had lots of junk built up), fixed a leak, checked fuel pump, checked that ignition wires were properly routed and a small improvement, but as is the vehicle is undrivable.

When trying to find a rebuild kit for the carb, i was told my carb is not an original carb, and therefore a service kit is not available. Here are some pictures of my carb.

Questions please:
Is it the original carb?
Is it worth sending the carb to a pro shop and have it rebuilt? (400 dollars)
Is there a good replacement carb in the market for this F engine serial number F226998?

Thank you kindly

 

[bhsdriller]

need some better pics zoom out and show the whole thing

 

[65swb45]

Definitely not original. As F engine carburetors become harder to find, people are getting 'creative' with adapting other early Toyota 2bbl carbs to the LC andhoping they work.

If your pedal is set up for a cable, and you have the original air cleaner, it will be less headache to get the correct carburetor.

 

[antiquecollector5]

Here are some better pictures

Definitely not original. As F engine carburetors become harder to find, people are getting 'creative' with adapting other early Toyota 2bbl carbs to the LC andhoping they work.

If your pedal is set up for a cable, and you have the original air cleaner, it will be less headache to get the correct carburetor.

left a message with my phone number to call me. Please do. Thanks

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Hello,
My FJ40 I am trying to build starts right up and runs fine at idle. However, when any load is placed on it, and the engine rpm increase, I get pretty bad hesitation and loud backfiring.
Cleaned carb (had lots of junk built up), fixed a leak, checked fuel pump, checked that ignition wires were properly routed and a small improvement, but as is the vehicle is undrivable.

When trying to find a rebuild kit for the carb, i was told my carb is not an original carb, and therefore a service kit is not available. Here are some pictures of my carb.

Questions please:
Is it the original carb?
Is it worth sending the carb to a pro shop and have it rebuilt? (400 dollars)
Is there a good replacement carb in the market for this F engine serial number F226998?

Thank you kindly

View attachment 3922973View attachment 3922974View attachment 3922975View attachment 3922976

Looks alot like an old Carter 1bbl carb

 

[antiquecollector5]

Looks alot like an old Carter 1bbl carb

This forum is awesome!! Thank you Cruiseroutfit.

This is in fact a Carter W 1 Carburetor used on 1941-1949 Chevy straight 6 216 cubic inch displ engines. (3.5L)
The LC engine displacement is 3.9L

 

[antiquecollector5]

Continuing on my adventure to get this old FJ40 back to life. It is certainly a "labor of love".....sorry for the "rookie" questions but here we go. Problem is it idles just fine but backfires badly when any load is placed.

I had read a thread that someone had rebuilt an engine and all the ignition components, and this fellow still had the backfiring and lack of power. The final fix was fixing a vac leak by replacing the gaskets under the carb.

I had looked at this gasket before (did not realize there are two gaskets) but while I did not replace the gasket directly under the carb because it looked " good enough" and I did not have a replacement on hand. However, upon a second closer inspection, I found that the spacer coating on the spacer directly under the carb had failed on the underside. The top looked fine, but the bottom certainly is damaged. I found a replacement spacer with both top and bottom gaskets for about 110 bucks and will be buying it today. Do you folks agree this may be the problem?

Here is the top of the spacer (undamaged):

Here is the bottom (part of the coating is gone on the flat surface, and the sealing surface is deformed)

 

[65swb45]

I would definitely fix that problem first. It looks like the insulator was originally designed to handle the PCV as well, but you now have some makeshift bypass installed.

I sell replacement insulators, with a PCV tube installed.

 

[antiquecollector5]

I would definitely fix that problem first. It looks like the insulator was originally designed to handle the PCV as well, but you now have some makeshift bypass installed.

I sell replacement insulators, with a PCV tube installed.

Thanks. Will call you to order one. Below is the current arrangement. Should I change it?

Suction from the oil filler tube

Source of vacuum: Towards the rear of the intake manifold for cyl 5 and 6

Last picture for laughs: I am now a certified tree shade mechanic! Only problem is the shade of the tree keeps moving!! Temp inside my barn 105, under the tree around 90!! This is in Tx near Houston. Weather channel says it is 95 degrees, but it feels like 103. Summer starts in two weeks!!

 

[65swb45]

It is said that a picture is worth a thousand words. In your case, maybe two! Not only is that not the place to hook up the PCV, you can clearly see in the pic that the check valve for your brake booster is not connected to anything!

 

[antiquecollector5]

This is work in progress.... I am changing front and back brakes from drum to disc.

 

[45Dougal]

Is the vacuum correctly connected to your distributor advance diaphragm?