Carb/Idle speed help (1 Viewer)

[IS2SPICY4U]

I cleaned my 2F carb a few days ago (as per pinhead's video and repair manual steps) as I was replacing a manifold gasket anyway, so I took the opportunity to clean it. Installed a new diaphram and put it back together no problem.

Put it back together and car runs but won't idle. I have tried to follow the FSM steps to adjust idle speed but it does not matter how many turns to the idle speed screw I do, it won't make a noticeable change. The only way I can keep the engine idling is by pulling the choke to the second step. As soon as I push the choke all the way in the engine stalls.

Also, the 60 ran pretty normal for a day or so after putting back together, but now it hesitates pretty bad and I cannot drive it on second gear. As if the timing is all thrown off! Could it be because now that I have proper vacuum (fixed intake leak) the timing needs to be adjusted also? Or the distributor recurved? Is a de-smogg 2F

Any thoughts?

 

[2mbb]

Here are some typical issues: forgot to connect the idle cut solenoid, or it is now not working; turning the wrong screw for idle speed--the idle speed and fast idle speed (choke speed) are right next to one another. If you are trying to do the "lean drop" method, you need to adjust both the idle mixture and idle speed screws. most of the adjustments are to the idle mixture screw. This screw is located on the right side of the carburetor, right next to the valve cover.

for desmog you should search and read desmog threads. However, timing should not need to be adjusted because you fixed a vacuum leak as timing should be always set at idle with vacuum advance disconnected. Also, vacuum leaks usually effect manifold vacuum at idle most but distributor advance uses carburetor (venturi) vacuum, which is different.

 

[lcolon]

One other thing to check is the EGR. I had exactly this problem. I replaced the fuel cut solenoid and that did not do the trick. Turns out that my EGR got stuck open (go figure). I pulled some vacuum on the valve and exercised it a few times, problem solved. Just something to check outside of the solenoid and other carb settings.

 

[IS2SPICY4U]

Here are some typical issues: forgot to connect the idle cut solenoid, or it is now not working; turning the wrong screw for idle speed--the idle speed and fast idle speed (choke speed) are right next to one another. If you are trying to do the "lean drop" method, you need to adjust both the idle mixture and idle speed screws. most of the adjustments are to the idle mixture screw. This screw is located on the right side of the carburetor, right next to the valve cover.

for desmog you should search and read desmog threads. However, timing should not need to be adjusted because you fixed a vacuum leak as timing should be always set at idle with vacuum advance disconnected. Also, vacuum leaks usually effect manifold vacuum at idle most but distributor advance uses carburetor (venturi) vacuum, which is different.

View attachment 2319644

Thank you 2mbb. I am turning the correct screws. I have the FSM so I was able to make sure to turn the correct ones. I will look into the solenoid however. Back when I started dealing with the hesitation/stall due to the intake leak I attempted to replace it as part of the troubleshooting process. I ordered a replacement from CCOT but it had a different connector than mine so I had to return it. I posted about it back then.

Anybody has a part number for a Aisin carb idle solenoid with this type of connector?

 

[IS2SPICY4U]

One other thing to check is the EGR. I had exactly this problem. I replaced the fuel cut solenoid and that did not do the trick. Turns out that my EGR got stuck open (go figure). I pulled some vacuum on the valve and exercised it a few times, problem solved. Just something to check outside of the solenoid and other carb settings.

This is a de-smoged 2F so no EGR though. Unless you might be talking about the HAC valve? Which you do/can keep after de-smog.

 

[2mbb]

Thank you 2mbb. I am turning the correct screws. I have the FSM so I was able to make sure to turn the correct ones. I will look into the solenoid however. Back when I started dealing with the hesitation/stall due to the intake leak I attempted to replace it as part of the troubleshooting process. I ordered a replacement from CCOT but it had a different connector than mine so I had to return it. I posted about it back then.

Anybody has a part number for a Aisin carb idle solenoid with this type of connector?
View attachment 2320868

Vintage TEQ parts seems to have one with that connector: NEW Next Generation Fuel Cut Solenoid Dual Wire / 2 Wire TYPE w/ Correct TOYOTA LAND CRUISER Factory Profile Type OEM TOYOTA Electrical Connector 21062-61060 Fj40 FJ55 Fj60 8/80 - 9/87 Also fits a 1/75 - 7/80 with updated Ground wire - VintageTEqParts.com

 

[lcolon]

This is a de-smoged 2F so no EGR though. Unless you might be talking about the HAC valve? Which you do/can keep after de-smog.

Ahh sorry - I missed the desmog comment in the original post. What I did for my carb solenoid is cut the factory connector off and put 2 spade connectors so that it can be plugged in. If you want to test it, there is a thread somewhere here on mud where a member shows how you can test the solenoid valve with a hand vacuum pump. At least that would let you know whether it is working or not.

 

[mattressking]

Ahh sorry - I missed the desmog comment in the original post. What I did for my carb solenoid is cut the factory connector off and put 2 spade connectors so that it can be plugged in. If you want to test it, there is a thread somewhere here on mud where a member shows how you can test the solenoid valve with a hand vacuum pump. At least that would let you know whether it is working or not.

With the truck idling, take the vacuum line that feeds into EGR, remove from EGR modulator and either connect a vacuum pump or suck on the hose with your mouth. If sucking on the hose (aka applying vacuum) causes the truck to stumble or stall, the egr is functioning. If the EGR is stuck open, its rather noticeable, its a large vacuum leak and the truck will barely idle, if at all.

 

[2mbb]

Ahh sorry - I missed the desmog comment in the original post. What I did for my carb solenoid is cut the factory connector off and put 2 spade connectors so that it can be plugged in. If you want to test it, there is a thread somewhere here on mud where a member shows how you can test the solenoid valve with a hand vacuum pump. At least that would let you know whether it is working or not.

To test the ICS, I think you just need to apply 12V across the connector pins. You should hear a "click" with it installed. If you want to check if it is moving, remove it from the carburetor. The plunger should retract with 12V.

 

[lcolon]

To test the ICS, I think you just need to apply 12V across the connector pins. You should hear a "click" with it installed. If you want to check if it is moving, remove it from the carburetor. The plunger should retract with 12V.

Agreed... I searched around but could not find the thread I was referring to. Someone had posted a whole series of tests for the various emissions vacuum switches and showed how to actually test the carb solenoid to prove it works rather than just listening for the "click". Maybe someone else knows how to find the thread. It was very insightful.

 

[2mbb]

This?