Carb HELP! (10 Viewers)
- Thread starter Cloud40
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Land Cruiser Carburetor Identifier - Specter Off-Road - https://www.sor.com/cat/042d 9/72 has 2 models
Check the free downloads for the correct manual.
www.cruisercult.com
Check the free downloads for the correct manual.
Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs)
Factory service manuals (FSMs) for your Toyota Land Cruiser ! From the 1950s to the present!
www.cruisercult.com
- Thread starter
- #3
Thank you for the infoLand Cruiser Carburetor Identifier - Specter Off-Road - https://www.sor.com/cat/042d 9/72 has 2 models
Check the free downloads for the correct manual.
Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs)
Factory service manuals (FSMs) for your Toyota Land Cruiser ! From the 1950s to the present!
#53 on page 67/188 manual 5.8 1972 F engine manual in the downloads
Do they have drain plugs? You mean to drain fuel from the bowl? If you want to do that remove the 12mm hex below the site glass.
Oh, and if you are gonna work on your junk its best to invest in some FSM’s.
Cheers
Oh, and if you are gonna work on your junk its best to invest in some FSM’s.
Cheers
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
14mm hex’s below sight glass
- Thread starter
- #10
Thank you all for your input. I was able to drain the old glass from the fuel bowl, hoping that would solve my problem. For background, it has been sitting for several years so I was needing to get all the old gas flushed out. Now that that is done, with draining the fuel bowl being the last step, I was hoping this would solve my problems to get it started. Unfortunately, I can only get it to start for a few second with starter fluid and then it dies. I have drained all the fuel lines from prior old gas and ensured that there are no blockages. I am certain gas is moving from the tank through the filter and pump to the fuel bowl in the carb, however when I press the accelerator, there is no gas pumping into the carb. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Accelerator pump is stuck, bad, plugged. Float/needle valve stuck.
Find pinhead's carb rebuild vid. Get a few cans of carb spray and the carb rebuild kit - take it apart, clean and flush all the passages and put it back together.
Find pinhead's carb rebuild vid. Get a few cans of carb spray and the carb rebuild kit - take it apart, clean and flush all the passages and put it back together.
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Take the 14mm cap off that sits above the fuel inlet. From there, You can tap on the float needle with a paper clip to make sure gas is getting into the carb.
If the truck will run on the starter fluid, and fuel is getting into the bowl, then it is likely that it is not getting OUT of the bowl, I.e. jets gummed up.
If the truck will run on the starter fluid, and fuel is getting into the bowl, then it is likely that it is not getting OUT of the bowl, I.e. jets gummed up.
- Thread starter
- #13
Thank you for your response. I took the 14mm cap off, I was able to see a bit of gas in that area, used the paperclip to push down. Should I be visibly seeing gas going into the carb somewhere when I manually press down the float needle with the paperclip? If so, I am not seeing anything...
Make this fuel transfer system. 12 vdc fuel pump for carbs, switched, fused, filtered. 5' draft 20' delivery will plug into cig lighter or clamp to battery like 12' away. Bypass your entire fuel system from carb to the tank, with a fresh can of gas to see if it will run.
Very handy for fuel transfer from the crappy gas can they sell now. Will transfer diesel too. Was like $50 the last ones I made.
Very handy for fuel transfer from the crappy gas can they sell now. Will transfer diesel too. Was like $50 the last ones I made.
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You’re not going to see gas moving in that area unless the fuel pump is on. And if the fuel pump is on, the fuel will take the path of least resistance, which will be out the large hole you created by taking the cap off.
- Thread starter
- #16
It sounds like my only option is to disassemble the carb in order to clean out the jets.You’re not going to see gas moving in that area unless the fuel pump is on. And if the fuel pump is on, the fuel will take the path of least resistance, which will be out the large hole you created by taking the cap off.
Old gas turns to shellac and blocks passages. New gas alone isn't really going to clean them out. Carb spray with a pee tube might. If you can get it to sort of run a fuel system cleaner might help. Want to do it right once - get the kit, take it apart, use wires/brushes and cleaners to clear all the passages. Carb dip or an ultrasonic cleaner with carb juice will do a good job way faster. Carb work isn't for everyone - watch Pinhead's vids to see if it looks like a project you could do.
