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- #161
connectors
Cape Fear Electronics
- Thread starter Engineer8000
- Start date
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- #162
Working on these today, 81+ emission computers
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- #163
Interesting that denso changed their manufacturing process. Some of these are covered with flux while others are clean
these are nasty to clean
these are nasty to clean
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- #164
Like new.
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- #165
79 emissions computer someone sent in for repair and testing.
Several broken solder connections.
Several broken solder connections.
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- #166
How to test a 78 carb fan controller
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- #167
rummaging thru some boxes of stuff and found this
@Engineer8000 do you sell the emission computers? I have an 84' 60 where my fuel cut solenoid was intermediately causing a rough idle and no start issues. Solved in the short term by creating a new circuit wired to the ignition coil that is fused and relayed, but I'd prefer to put back to OEM. Without tracing the wires, I'm asserting that the ground side of the FCS that goes to the emission computer terminal 12 is bad. Do I have options to buy one from you or do you recommend me looking for the problem elsewhere?
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- #169
I have a few but it may be more economical for you to send me yours for repair. $60 includes return shipping.
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- #170
worked on this recently
loaded it up to 50W nameplate power and took THD measurements
loaded it up to 50W nameplate power and took THD measurements
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- #171
I got this rug for the shop to protect the floor under the chair
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Henry says thank you!
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Russ, I have two questions for you, both related to 80 series electronics.
#1: Charlie, no. 1 son, (not Henry, who is no. 2 son with a very nicely refurbished Technics stereo) has a 1994 with the RS3x alarm and magic door lock controller. This is a port installed nightmare. He's recently been experiencing ignition failures, due to the alarm system. He doesn't want to give up the key fob door locker, and, since he's flown the nest, the truck is his to care for. I say that to say I'm not interested in replacing the alarm with another, or a wireless lock/unlock system. Are you interested in scoping the board and letting me know if it's salvageable?
#2: I have a need for an alternator test stand (the Charlotte auto parts stores' machines are notoriously unreliable). I'm planning to build one. Would you be interested in providing suggestions on what a circuit would look like? I would like to test all the output parameters of the alternator, through a range of rpm, say from 650 to 3000. This would be for the 80A standard alternator. I primarily want it so that when I rebuild theses things, I don't fire the parts cannon at them and instead buy, and replace, the component(s) that have failed. I know I could connect it to the scope, but I'd like to have a dedicated test stand, if it's feasible.
Thanks.
#1: Charlie, no. 1 son, (not Henry, who is no. 2 son with a very nicely refurbished Technics stereo) has a 1994 with the RS3x alarm and magic door lock controller. This is a port installed nightmare. He's recently been experiencing ignition failures, due to the alarm system. He doesn't want to give up the key fob door locker, and, since he's flown the nest, the truck is his to care for. I say that to say I'm not interested in replacing the alarm with another, or a wireless lock/unlock system. Are you interested in scoping the board and letting me know if it's salvageable?
#2: I have a need for an alternator test stand (the Charlotte auto parts stores' machines are notoriously unreliable). I'm planning to build one. Would you be interested in providing suggestions on what a circuit would look like? I would like to test all the output parameters of the alternator, through a range of rpm, say from 650 to 3000. This would be for the 80A standard alternator. I primarily want it so that when I rebuild theses things, I don't fire the parts cannon at them and instead buy, and replace, the component(s) that have failed. I know I could connect it to the scope, but I'd like to have a dedicated test stand, if it's feasible.
Thanks.
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- #174
1, sure if I can get the hookup diagram and operating manual for it.
2, I can try to help, there must be a few home brew designs floating around the internet
2, I can try to help, there must be a few home brew designs floating around the internet
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
As the automagic shutoff function is getting reliable, I'll have him unplug it and mail it to you. He'll just have to use the key until it's fixed. That'll be waaay better than being stranded.
I don't have the specs for the alternator, other than the minimalist static tests in the FSM, so I'm at a loss as to what to include in a test circuit. Would a scope be a better tool, assuming I can whip up a spin stand? I assume I want to see some kind of square wave, at some frequency, and some output current, within a given rpm range? Is there any other running parameter to test for?
I don't have the specs for the alternator, other than the minimalist static tests in the FSM, so I'm at a loss as to what to include in a test circuit. Would a scope be a better tool, assuming I can whip up a spin stand? I assume I want to see some kind of square wave, at some frequency, and some output current, within a given rpm range? Is there any other running parameter to test for?
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- #176
I have not looked into the fj40 alternator but others I have seen are basically a 3 phase generator, each phase connected to the output through a diode for 1/2 wave rectification. So you would see a series of humps on the scope. If there is an open phase or diode, one of the humps would be missing.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Russ, to be clear, this test stand would be for all land cruiser alternators, in theory, but primarily for the 80 series 80A units.
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- #178
Hung out a shingle
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- #179
Sorry, been down with the flu this week.
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- #180
These AC controllers being sold on fleabay currently are advertised as 12V units. I am pretty sure they are all 24V diesel units (no RPM sensor). Ask for a picture of the left side where the RPM adjustment should be, it will likely be a temperature adjustment. Also beware these are stamped 24V on the bottom. There is also a 12F on the bottom but that does not indicate 12V. I have seen where the 24V was erased leaving the 12F or just 12 left behind.
un modified bottom markings
fraudulent bottom markings
These can be modified to work on 12V but will not have the RPM sensing feature.
un modified bottom markings
fraudulent bottom markings
These can be modified to work on 12V but will not have the RPM sensing feature.
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