Can't open tailgate (1 Viewer)

[hatchethead]

It works. The 3D-printed part arrived in the mail yesterday and it appears to do the job. Here's a video of it (the white piece that slides around in the center of the mechanism) at work. Later, I'll write a longer description of what I learned in the process of replacing it. And that post will include the CAD file of the part.

Note: I received two copies of the part. You can see the second copy in profile on the counter to the right of the mechanism.

 

[redturbo]

@hatchethead I'm a newer series 100 owner. Picked up a 2003 LX in February. My hatch started exhibiting the same behavior (small black plastic piece was broken just like your video) a couple weeks ago. I searched around for a newer post about this and didn't see one. Would you be willing to share your CAD file?

 

[redturbo]

Following up here: I did end up getting the AutoCAD file from @hatchethead and a friend printed the piece. The scale was off by just a bit on our print so it ended up being too small, but in the process of fiddling with the plastic I realized that it was going to be way more involved than I was in for to take that component apart. I ended up buying a steel socket cap screw (#4-40 x 3/4 in) and two machine screw nuts (#4-40). I added a dab of epoxy to the bottom nut so it wouldn't back out (didn't have any thread-locker handy) and it works great. It's so accessible, you could easily replace that piece in a few minutes if that screw ever broke, but it's not under a ton of load.

Thanks @hatchethead for the file, it would have definitely worked had I the tools to take that mechanism apart.

For anyone else with a quick fix in mind, here's what mine looked like after the screw install. Total cost: $1.14.

 

[uHu]

Elegant Red. So the screw slides in the grooves without too much friction, and without being jammed at all?

 

[redturbo]

Yeah, the nut on top and bottom aren't tight, but they're snug enough that the screw doesn't flex from side to side. I've only had it in there a couple days now, but it was smooth with no binding outside the vehicle. Since I've installed it has worked great as well. I have no reason to think it won't hold up for the long term.

 

[MyTruck]

Following up here: I did end up getting the AutoCAD file from @hatchethead and a friend printed the piece. The scale was off by just a bit on our print so it ended up being too small, but in the process of fiddling with the plastic I realized that it was going to be way more involved than I was in for to take that component apart. I ended up buying a steel socket cap screw (#4-40 x 3/4 in) and two machine screw nuts (#4-40). I added a dab of epoxy to the bottom nut so it wouldn't back out (didn't have any thread-locker handy) and it works great. It's so accessible, you could easily replace that piece in a few minutes if that screw ever broke, but it's not under a ton of load.

Thanks @hatchethead for the file, it would have definitely worked had I the tools to take that mechanism apart.

For anyone else with a quick fix in mind, here's what mine looked like after the screw install. Total cost: $1.14.

View attachment 2038037View attachment 2038039View attachment 2038040

Thank you to both @hatchethead and @redturbo! I did it. I was able to pull the assembly out and work on it within the car. I am lucky to have a son with smaller hands! I used the bolt setup because the 3D printer manufacturing would require a special heat-tolerant PLA. I was looking for the cheaper route. Either way, thank you for the conversation topic. YEAH!!!

 

[madmaskbass]

Well to those involved with finding a solution to this I thankyou greatly! Had this exact issue happen in my hatch and the plastic bit had snapped off. I looked around to get the 3d item printed but was not going to be cheap. Tried the bolt and glue trick with a bit of epoxy once the height was set and works perfectly. Such a great resource as it has always been. cheers

 

[Pjb074xl40]

Had success with the bolt option. Used two top and one on the backside with super glue to hold it all together. The bolt was a little too large so I filed the section that slides in the slot to allow it to move freely when locking. With some effort you could select a better assortment of bolts, nuts and washers, but as is, I'm sure I'll get many years out of the fix.

 

[jahawk]

Just fixed mine with an M3 .5x22 cap screw. Just an FYI it can be done without removing the entire assembly.

Jim

 

[Unca Charlie]

Funny, searched this thread because my tailgate wouldn't unlock. All other doors were unlocking fine. Packed full of stuff, I had to unload everything through the back doors to even think about getting to the panel to check for anything. By the time I got everything out, I saw that the TV i put in the back, the leg on the TV was perfectly positioned to hold the tailgate lock down. Doh.

If it happens agin I'll know what to do.

 

[Accessmark]

So I just fixed my tailgate on my 2000 LC. The Exteroir latch stopped working. It did open from the inside. It was not the lock. It was a small plastic piece that broke. You fix it by taking the interior handle off and then gently prying off the lower trim piece. Then you have to stick your hand in where the exterior latch rod is and replace the small plastic piece on the end of the rod that is attached to the exterior latch. It took me 20 minutes. I got the plastic piece at Autozone. $5.

 

[formyper]

While I'm waiting for my 3D-printed parts to arrive in the mail, I wrote up a description of what I've tried, so far, to fix my rear hatch latching mechanism. You can see it here.

Fixing the LC’s Rear Hatch Latch | The Cold Fish

Jason

Hey, I know it's been 4 years, but this thread helped me diagnose my hatch issues. I clicked into your website, and saw a post on Carleton college ( my alma mater) St. Olaf and betty white. So just a hearty hello to an Olie from an old Carl.