Can you notice the Secondary open on your 60?

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Now that I have it running again, I can notice the secondary open. It's not a power difference so much, but if you pay attention to the gas pedal feel, you can feel where the resistance increases near the bottom of it's travel. That is the primary linkage engaging the secondary linkage to open.

I believe that the diaphragm is used to open the secondary all the way, but the primary linkage is used to open it primarily.

:beer:
 
THERES A SECONDARY??

just kidding :flipoff2:
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Now that I have it running again, I can notice the secondary open. It's not a power difference so much, but if you pay attention to the gas pedal feel, you can feel where the resistance increases near the bottom of it's travel. That is the primary linkage engaging the secondary linkage to open.

I believe that the diaphragm is used to open the secondary all the way, but the primary linkage is used to open it primarily.

:beer:


The linkage *allows* is to open (if the pedal is not depressed almost all the way the secondary is prevented from opening). But it is opened by the vacuum module and will remain closed if the midule isn't functioning, even when the pedal is on the floor. That's why it's a "vacuum secondary" carb. ;)


Mark...
 
3000 miles! What a great trip in a cruiser..... knowing at any time you can leave the road and take the bumpy,muddy, hilly, road less traveled.

I'm sure you know.... but do a good coolant hose check up/replacement before you depart. Not just the radiator hoses, but also the hoses that carry coolant to and from the oil cooler. I once had the little short hose from the water pump to the metal pipe to the oil cooler split on a hot summer day, and cost me a head. The other oil cooler hose that runs along side the oil pan usually gets oil and road debris on it and it can weaken.

I think one of the other guys made mention, but even a brand new part is not guaranteed to work, be it a fan clutch, diaphram, needle valve, etc. On more than one occasion I've replaced an old defective non working part with a new defective non working one. Dont rule that axiom out on your carb or any other aspect of trouble.

And of course for the road trip don't forget a well equipped tool and first aid kit and most of all...... mans most important evolutionary tool DUCT TAPE!

Sounds like your headed in the right direction on your rig, literally and figuratively that is.....
 
Thanks for the advice.

I have a week and a half to get the 60 prepped for the trip.
So far I have put in the rebuilt carb, new PCV valve, new fuel filter, air filter, carb to intake rubber, new side running lights all around and fixed some wiring to the lights. I just ordered everything I need for a tune up from Cruiser Dan, Thanks Dan! New plugs, wires, cap and rotor, plus a new EGR valve and vacuum tubing. I'm hoping the new EGR fixes a mid-range hesitation problem it seems to have. I'm also going to do an oil change and flush the radiator. That will be a good time to check all the coolant lines. I have a small leak from the oil pan gasket, I bought a new OEM gasket but haven't put it in yet, but I may try to tackle that this weekend. I still need to get my Ipod transmitter to work with the crappy FM radio, gotta have tunes on a road trip!

So much work - so little time!
 
FJ40Jim said:
The secondary will open less and less as altitude increases because the engine can' t make enough vacuum demand to open the secondary.

Is there a way to modify the way the secondary gets its vacuum so that it will function at higher elevation?
 
MDH33 said:
Is there a way to modify the way the secondary gets its vacuum so that it will function at higher elevation?
Yes. Open the vacuum restrictor jet a couple sizes, take some preload out of the spring, change linkage timing & initial angle.

Hey, lucky you. :)
Somebody has already done that mod on your carb. :cool:
 
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