Can you identify this FJ40 Coil/Electronic Ignition? (1 Viewer)

[Dizzy]

Any updates on the distributor install?

 

[Ackcruisers]

Not yet. That’s next on my list. I’ve restored two harnesses as I made decision to use a 1975 harness as it does not have the all the emissions wires from my CA spec1976 harness. Overall the 1975 is simple in comparison. Simple is better for this Colombian truck. Also, my perfectionism has me tackling other things like cleaning up the hacked up cutout in firewall from Vintage Air installer including repainting and building gasket to properly mate with the firewall. (there was no heater blower cutout on most Colombian trucks).

 

[Ackcruisers]

@Dizzy finally getting to spinning the dizzy. I marked the flywheel clearly at the BB and TDC line and photographed position of distributor in socket.

I believe I’m on the compression stroke at Cyl#1 as the rotor is pointing to plug wire #1 on my existing setup. Which, as shown in earlier posts is wrongly positioned and needs to be removed and replaced 180 degrees to move diaphragm so it is to right and adjuster knob to left. The top appears to be in view through spark plug hole on Cyl#1.

I have new cap, advancer diaphragm, knob and clamp. Will be routing plug wires in correct firing order once spun and reset following your instruction. Will be picking this up tomorrow afternoon/evening. Must admit, I’ve been delaying this procedure for fear of messing up a well running motor.

 

[Dizzy]

On my distributors, there is a keyed cap clamp, on one side, and on the other side it isn't keyed. That keeps the cap install return to the same spot during a simple tune-up. However, I don't know if you need the plug wire number designations in a certain spot after the advancer knob and diaphragm are moved? But it leaves it as an option.

Notice how the oil pump can be turned with a long tool (modified flat-blade screwdriver). Also observe how the tip of the distributor must fit in the slot in the oil pump. Also, observe that the cam shaft gear is helical, and there is like a 30-degree turn on the rotor when the distributor is installed from the top to the bottom. Basically, you are going to have to line up the distributor 'tang'/tip with the oil pump slot, but your target will be a slight rotation away, as the gear is helical. You can move the distributor body, but the adjustment is on the oil pump itself, and which gear tooth you start with, because where they crank is the cam gear is also stationary. Keep the distributor clamp loose on the block, when you install, and on the clamp bolt on the distributor shaft, because it would otherwise add a level of precision to the install.

In your image above, I'm having a hard time reading where the distributor clamp is in relation to the block. Is there a felt gasket at the top of the block? More photos please. Depth of install is important for the distributor. Also, checking that you have oil pressure after install during cranking would help.

Don't hesitate to get Mud help if you are still uncertain. I know there are many folks who have many talents that can help.

 

[Ackcruisers]

On my distributors, there is a keyed cap clamp, on one side, and on the other side it isn't keyed. That keeps the cap install return to the same spot during a simple tune-up. However, I don't know if you need the plug wire number designations in a certain spot after the advancer knob and diaphragm are moved? But it leaves it as an option.

Notice how the oil pump can be turned with a long tool (modified flat-blade screwdriver). Also observe how the tip of the distributor must fit in the slot in the oil pump. Also, observe that the cam shaft gear is helical, and there is like a 30-degree turn on the rotor when the distributor is installed from the top to the bottom. Basically, you are going to have to line up the distributor 'tang'/tip with the oil pump slot, but your target will be a slight rotation away, as the gear is helical. You can move the distributor body, but the adjustment is on the oil pump itself, and which gear tooth you start with, because where they crank is the cam gear is also stationary. Keep the distributor clamp loose on the block, when you install, and on the clamp bolt on the distributor shaft, because it would otherwise add a level of precision to the install.

In your image above, I'm having a hard time reading where the distributor clamp is in relation to the block. Is there a felt gasket at the top of the block? More photos please. Depth of install is important for the distributor. Also, checking that you have oil pressure after install during cranking would help.

Don't hesitate to get Mud help if you are still uncertain. I know there are many folks who have many talents that can help.

Thanks, appreciate the help. Here are a few additional photos. I’m not seeing a felt gasket at the top of the block but may find one is when I remove it. I think I have a handle on what to do but below are additional photos.

New Clamp

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks for assistance @Dizzy. Very helpful. Finally got distributor seated. What’s strange is the dizzy helical gear never really moved clockwise when it meshed with cam. It moved counter clockwise when it seated then slightly clockwise once finally seated.