Can I glue my driver's-side window to the bottom rail? (1 Viewer)

[Ruggedly]

A few weeks back my driver's-side window came out of the bottom rail, causing it to stay stuck in the up position (thankfully) and make an awesome crunching noise every time I accidentally tried to lower the window and then have to raise it back up. Anyway, on Sunday I finally pulled the door apart and got it back in the rail. I heavily tested it at the time and then got the door back together. Well, after sitting all day Monday, I tried to roll the window down Tuesday morning and it came right back out of the rail! GRRRRRRRR!

Does anyone have any tips for keeping the window in the rail? I have newer rubber in the top and side tracks, but will give them a good lube. The rubber in the rail is also newer, so no issue there. I also have a new lever and motor assembly I could install, but that doesn't come with a new rail, so I'm at a loss as to what else I can do to get this thing to stay in. Has anyone actually glued it in place? I'm totally not above that if it's the best option.

As always, thanks for your help!

David

 

[LINUS]

I’ve had mine apart a few times. Just clening the bottom grip rubber up really well & installing it wet / let it dry seems to work as long as that grip gutter is pinched tight enough.

Some cheap lube (honestly one of the few good places for Armor-all) in the vertical runner/guide won’t hurt.

But it sounds like the bottom gutter isn’t pinched tight enough if the glass comes out when you try to drop the window.

 

[tacosupreme]

I used a few dabs of clear silicone in mine. It stayed in there after that.

 

[Dazrin]

I have had the same issue with my driver rear window. For now, I have just propped it in the up position and removed power. I may try the clear silicone fix though. Cleaning window runs and tightening the track didn't do any good.

 

[Ruggedly]

I used a few dabs of clear silicone in mine. It stayed in there after that.

Did you put the silicone into the rubber track, then slide that into the metal rail, then slide the window into the rail? I had to use some soapy water to get the window to slide into the rail the first time around, which is why I ask.

 

[tacosupreme]

Did you put the silicone into the rubber track, then slide that into the metal rail, then slide the window into the rail? I had to use some soapy water to get the window to slide into the rail the first time around, which is why I ask.

I glued the rubber to the window, and put a dab in the rail, then slid the rubber into position. I then rolled the window up putting tension on the seal until it dried.

 

[BILT4ME]

I was doing some reading on this and it specifically states to NOT use silicone as an adhesive because it causes it to be really slick during installation and it may end up out-of-position before it cures.

The FSM states to use soapy water for the install, making sure everything is very clean before it is assembled. You could use an adhesive, but use something that is NOT silicone based. More polyurethane based than anything.

As far as the window run, I use a silicone lube made specifically for window runs by Honda. Basically, it's like Sil-Glyde and you smear it around in the window runs to help keep it lubed, but it supposedly is also helps to "replenish" the rubber products.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS

 

[Ruggedly]

I was doing some reading on this and it specifically states to NOT use silicone as an adhesive because it causes it to be really slick during installation and it may end up out-of-position before it cures.

The FSM states to use soapy water for the install, making sure everything is very clean before it is assembled. You could use an adhesive, but use something that is NOT silicone based. More polyurethane based than anything.

As far as the window run, I use a silicone lube made specifically for window runs by Honda. Basically, it's like Sil-Glyde and you smear it around in the window runs to help keep it lubed, but it supposedly is also helps to "replenish" the rubber products.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS

Thanks for that feedback! Have you found it helps with window speed as well?

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks for that feedback! Have you found it helps with window speed as well?

Yes on the speed.

Most folks have had to go through and clean out and re-lube their MOTORS in the windows and lube all the mechanism to get the speed and smoothness they need.

After that, the next step is to increase the wire size from the motors to all the connection points.

First is CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. (Soap and water scrub with a toothbrush on all the window runs or new runs with silicone lube)
Second is LUBE, LUBE, LUBE.
Third is REDESIGN.

Another possibility is the master switch. Mine was "burnt" internally and the contacts were all very black and oxidized. I rebuilt it a couple times, but it became a pain. For $45, I bought a new master switch from SwitchDoctor and it made things a LOT faster.

The windows on these are known to be slow and non-responsive, especially in cold environments. When I travel north in the winter, I make it a point to NOT roll down my windows unless I have been driving the truck for a while and all of the interior is nice and toasty.

 

[Ruggedly]

Yes on the speed.

Most folks have had to go through and clean out and re-lube their MOTORS in the windows and lube all the mechanism to get the speed and smoothness they need.

After that, the next step is to increase the wire size from the motors to all the connection points.

First is CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. (Soap and water scrub with a toothbrush on all the window runs or new runs with silicone lube)
Second is LUBE, LUBE, LUBE.
Third is REDESIGN.

Another possibility is the master switch. Mine was "burnt" internally and the contacts were all very black and oxidized. I rebuilt it a couple times, but it became a pain. For $45, I bought a new master switch from SwitchDoctor and it made things a LOT faster.

The windows on these are known to be slow and non-responsive, especially in cold environments. When I travel north in the winter, I make it a point to NOT roll down my windows unless I have been driving the truck for a while and all of the interior is nice and toasty.

Great advice. Thank you. Since I'll have the whole thing apart again I'm going to go ahead and install the new motor/scissor arm. I just ordered that Honda lube and will get a poly-based adhesive to get the window to stay in place. I'll see how it goes from there.

 

[Tools R Us]

Have used silicone, any RTV, several times with good results, just don't attempt to roll it down before fully cured. It works well on glass, that is how most aquariums are held together, in this case, a couple of dabs will do. Surfaces must be totally clean.

 

[Tools R Us]

My second choice would be the type of urethane that glass installers use. If you take it to an auto glass shop, they may stick it for you?

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

FYI, I'm a huge fan of NP1 urethane sealant (about $5/per tube) for any job requiring caulk. Comes in all colors. For waterproofing around the front windshield seal I use black. For window and door trim at the house, I use stone or limestone and it lasts literally forever. This stuff is instantly waterproof and stretches to around 400%.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, I just buy a new Toyota rubber strip and put the glass back in for another 30 years. Mike