Can any L/C parts company put together a desomg kit?

[Zack1978]

Hey everyone,
I guess this post is aimed at a Land Cruiser company or someone with the knowledge and know how to put together a complete FJ60 desmog kit. I have spent MANY MANY hours reading the numerous posts about doing a desmog on my FJ60 and it can be very confusing, what is a fluid riser? how do you block off certain ports? what vacc lines stay? what vacc lines go?! Do you think any company could put something together? I would be firts in line to pay up for a complete kit with specific directions, etc. Jim C can you put something like this together?

Now I know that a desmog is not legal, so the aforementioned idea would only be for "off-road" 60's


Just an idea,
Zack

 

[Spoony Love]

Well seeing how all desmogs are usually custom, what your thinking about a "kit" is pretty much nearly impossible.

What you need to do is go back to the posts youve already read, and just re-read then until they make sense to you.

You can buy vacuum/emissions line at any auto parts store by the foot. Same think with vacuum plugs. As for dizzy/carb rebuilds you can send them to Jim C. (FJ40jim here on mud). Or you can have at it yourself.

I know its confusing and all, i was in the same boat, but i have it figured out now, and am just waiting for my carb and dizzy.

Hope that helps

Luke

 

[iaintscared1969]

Manufactures would be reluctant to produce a kit that would willingly remove OEM equipment. There are liability issues involved when selling vehicles across state lines. It really isn't a lot to desmog a truck. Now if they made a nice idler pulley bracket I would like that!

 

[Zack1978]

Well seeing how all desmogs are usually custom, what your thinking about a "kit" is pretty much nearly impossible.

What you need to do is go back to the posts youve already read, and just re-read then until they make sense to you.

You can buy vacuum/emissions line at any auto parts store by the foot. Same think with vacuum plugs. As for dizzy/carb rebuilds you can send them to Jim C. (FJ40jim here on mud). Or you can have at it yourself.

I know its confusing and all, i was in the same boat, but i have it figured out now, and am just waiting for my carb and dizzy.

Hope that helps

Luke

See right there I am confused when you say that desomg's are custom. From what I have read some of the vacc lines must stay and some go, however with the only exception of running with A/C or not it seems to me that it should be clear cut?

Also does Jim C still make the pulley to dump the air pump?

My HUGE fear is that I will start pulling vacc lines, etc and have a poor running truck that I have no clue how to fix.

Zack

 

[Zack1978]

Manufactures would be reluctant to produce a kit that would willingly remove OEM equipment. There are liability issues involved when selling vehicles across state lines. It really isn't a lot to desmog a truck. Now if they made a nice idler pulley bracket I would like that!

Even if they put a disclaimer in that it is ONLY for off-road trucks?


Zack

 

[lcwizard]

A fluid heat riser is used in conjunction with headers. The stock exhaust manifolds bolts to the bottom of the intake where the exhaust heat is used to preheat the fuel for better combustion. When you put on a header you may experience (depending whether in phx in the summer or st paul in the winter ) stumbling. The heat riser bolts to the bottom of the intake and using supplied plumbing circulates engine coolant under the carburator preheating the fuel to some degree. Being from AZ I haven't experienced a situation where anything ever needed preheating....but I hear praise from the northern states

 

[iaintscared1969]

So you promise you are not going to drive your truck on the street! I know a lot of replacement parts have disclaimers but I am sure if you approached some of them due to the #'s and amount of units required for them to make mony on it they wouldn't do it. We are becoming a select little group amoung the mass produced vehicls out there. They would love to see us all turn our gas guzzlers in for a Prius.

 

[chitown40]

Zack --

You've had your truck for a long time and worked through many issues. The de-smog is a rather simple process. You need to go back and READ the emissions manual and understand the individual systems that make up the rats nest of vacuum lines. Once you understand what each system does, the de-smog will start to make sense. As far as the smog pump is concerned, if you aren't going to ever smog the truck again, just go ahead and gut the pump and put it back on. You won't see any major gains by going to an idler pulley compared to a gutted pump. You can use the metal vac line manifolds to custom route the particular vacuum lines you need to keep. Just find the two ends that match up and utilitize it as a conduit. As far as the carb and plugging ports - you should buy some vacuum caps from your local auto parts store to cap off the ports. Make sure all the vac ports on the carb are closed in some manner (connected or capped) so you don't have a vacuum leak. Take Jim C's diagram and just go one line and system at a time. You can remove the EGR cooler and associated piping, or just leave it all on, disconnect the modulator, and ensure there are no leaks at the valve or in the system. The other stuff is already well documented.

The key is understanding what the components do and what and why your are removing them. Emissions manual spells it all out pretty well.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

rip it all out then put back only what you need, then cap off whatever is left....

kinda a bull in a china shop approach but it gets it all out of your way so you can determine what all you have and need to keep and can toss.

 

[lehiguy]

Done two of these, both with Webers, headers and fluid heat risers as it gets plenty cold in northern Utah. This approach is simple and clean. Retaining the stock mixer is something I've never tried as I'm not a huge fan of Asian carbs, especially ones with more tubes coming out of them then the back room at Sea World. You can also lose the fan that cools the carb if you run a header. In all I think my rig shed at least 30 pounds of junk, 12 or 13 miles of tubing, picked up mileage and power and ran cleaner on emissions.

 

[Zack1978]

Done two of these, both with Webers, headers and fluid heat risers as it gets plenty cold in northern Utah. This approach is simple and clean. Retaining the stock mixer is something I've never tried as I'm not a huge fan of Asian carbs, especially ones with more tubes coming out of them then the back room at Sea World. You can also lose the fan that cools the carb if you run a header. In all I think my rig shed at least 30 pounds of junk, 12 or 13 miles of tubing, picked up mileage and power and ran cleaner on emissions.

Great, do you have a step by step approach to doing this?


Thanks,
Zack

 

[cstamm81]

I agree with where you are coming from. I too would like to do a full desmog, just less crap to fail and hopefully a better running truck. I have poured over the posts and diagrams as well. I believe I could figure it all out, but I agree it would be nice to have better, all inclusive documentation. You can get the idler pulley and air rail plugs from JimC.
I tried my local chapter to see if anyone local could lend a hand having done it before. No one posted up, but I think that would be the best way to do it, with someone who has done it before. It would probably go rather quick that way too. Post up on you local chapter's forum, and see if anyone bites.

 

[Zack1978]

I agree with where you are coming from. I too would like to do a full desmog, just less crap to fail and hopefully a better running truck. I have poured over the posts and diagrams as well. I believe I could figure it all out, but I agree it would be nice to have better, all inclusive documentation. You can get the idler pulley and air rail plugs from JimC.
I tried my local chapter to see if anyone local could lend a hand having done it before. No one posted up, but I think that would be the best way to do it, with someone who has done it before. It would probably go rather quick that way too. Post up on you local chapter's forum, and see if anyone bites.

YES exactly, I bet someone like Jim C could do a full desmog in a matter of minutes, we on the other hand have spent countless hours reading confusing posts. Anyone in NJ that has done a desmog and want to help me?

Thanks,
Zack

 

[FJ60Cam]

Here's a step by step list. Feel free to modify and/or correct as needed...

1)First step is to get a rebuilt-desmogged carb , and recurved dizzy in your hands. (If you don't start with those, you may end up chasing problems that aren't really problems).

2)Next, buy all the nickle and dime parts... block off plate for EGR on exhaust manifold (don't have to run headers), vacuum port caps, misc air cleaner caps, air rail plugs, etc.

3)Buy an idler pulley to replace smog pump. You could gut the pump, but an idler pulley will look much cleaner. This is a good time to make sure your power steer. pump isn't leaking - if it is, it will take out whatever you are using for an idler.

4)Remove everything* from engine bay (*almost everything)

5)Modify your PCV / EGR thingie. You don't have to have access to a welder. JB Weld has worked fine for me.

6)While everything is out, you may want to put a new intake/exhaust gasket on... if you do this, don't forget donut gasket to exhaust pipe.

7)Install dizzy.

8)Install carb. Hook up remaining vacuum lines to carb.(dizzy advance, AC idle up, see post #5 in this thread for directions .

9)Connect the PCV line

10) Connect HIC (right acronym?) valve to opener on the air cleaner.


I'm probably missing a few things, but this is how mine is hooked up, and it runs great under all* conditions. (20*F-105*F... I've never driven above 3500ft, so no high altitude experience)

Total cost will be in the neigborhood of $550-1000+ depending on what you keep vs. what you have to/want to buy (idler pulley, headers, etc.)

Take pictures of every connection before you start so you can see how to hook up things like the A/C idle solenoid, and HIC valve.

 

[lehiguy]

Great, do you have a step by step approach to doing this?


Thanks,
Zack

When replacing the carb and installing a header, you basicly strip off everything bolted to the head except the valve cover. Throw everything away (or flea bay it), block off the hole on the intake maniflod under the carb, remove the air pump, take the guts out and replace it. Plug the EGR holes in the head with the appropriately sized hardware available at any home store in the plumbing dept. In the end you will have a fuel line to the carb, (block the existing return line) and possibly an "ingnition on" hot wire to the electric choke if that's what your carb of choice uses, and a vaccuum line to the advance on the distributor. It's a thing of beauty. Get a manifold gasket to an F motor, they work great with headers. If you live in a cold climate, a fluid heat riser is a great way to get rid of cold weather driveability issues. This just routes coolant from the cylinder head through the cavity under the intake manifold and then back into the heater where it is currently routed. The pitfalls to such an endeavor are emissions laws and tuning. If you're not familiar with carb tuning, it may be duanting. Some of the after-market air cleaners are too restrictive, specificaly the little squarish ones that are common with Webers; these should be replaced with something bigger. There are those on this forum who may be able to desmog your stock carb and return it to you working better then it currently does, I don't know, I like Webers myself.

 

[Bryan062087]

Cameron, your truck is desmogged? I did not know that. How do you pass emissions inspection here?

 

[FJ60Cam]

I don't have to have it inspected...

I did take it to the inspection station just for fun. I think it would pass easily if I had a cat.

 

[Bryan062087]

I don't have to have it inspected....

How come? The 20 year old rule or something?

 

[FJ60Cam]

Not registered in the city....

 

[fliphkd778]

What exactly makes a carb desmogged? I know Jim C works magic for fuel economy and his recipe is a trade secret. What general changes does one need to have done to a carb for desmog?