Bypassing LSPV on 91, what size flare fittings?

[Tenzig Norgay]

I made a bracket like that because my LSPV was seized in place. Others have said that it comes with some non US lifts, and when installed they had interference. I have a 3 inch lift in the rear, so I made a three inch lift for the mount. I do have some interference, when not loaded properly or when offroading and the drivers side goes to full droop. Its been that way for several years and I just haven't had the time to make a better cure. My interference is minimal, what size lift do you have?

The first pic is on level ground, the second is with DS droop

 

[jonheld]

You can't use the extension bracket as seen in the pictures. If you go back to stock configuration you will have very slight contact at the highest setting.
The LSPV valve body also has a bit of vertical play on the mounting bracket, assuming yours is not a pile of rust like mine is. If you loosen the 2 mounting nuts you should be able to shift the valve assembly down.

The LSPV is a simple device but it does require some periodic maintenance. The connecting rod ends need to be dissasembled, cleaned and lubed every once in a while.

 

[Yotaonly]

Here's what I did for mine. Running OME J's, which caused the arm to rub on the bottom of the upper control arm. I had thought about running it above the control arm, but decided instead to just bend it to go under while maintaining proper adjustment.

I disconnected the rod from the axle side, heated it up where I needed to bend it, and bent it to suit my needs. After a little bit of fine tuning and test driving, it works great. Granted, this is a '93 with discs, but you can jam the brakes from 50mph and the rears will not lock up.

 

[pursuit]

Thanks for all the insights and input, I've never played with this sort of brake set up before.

I'm running J springs, so between 3 and 4 inches of lift. My issue may be compounded by running a spacer up front intended for non J spring setups, which gives me a rearward rake (you an see it in my avatar pic). So I think between that rake and the link drag, I'm way to heavily biased in the rear (good in a woman, bad in a Cruiser)..

So a neutral set for the LSPV would ideally be a straight line from the LSPV to the axle end mount, correct? And it's trial and error from there?

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

I was thinking of bending my rod as well, glad to see someone else already did it and had success. Looks pretty straight forward, I'll just make sure to keep the LSPV to rod angle the same. My brakes work great now, but I would like to keep my rod and control arms from touching.

 

[Yotaonly]

I was thinking of bending my rod as well, glad to see someone else already did it and had success. Looks pretty straight forward, I'll just make sure to keep the LSPV to rod angle the same. My brakes work great now, but I would like to keep my rod and control arms from touching.

Yeah, that was my goal as well, to keep the output angle of the rod the same. But with 37's, I was able to use more braking than a factory setup, duh. So, I ended up with the rod angle a little higher.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Final adjustment 100%

 

[jynx]

We have a winner....

How did you decide where to set it, or did you just push it up and screw it down?